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07-20-2017, 08:14 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 2
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Jacking safely
I have a Cougar 327RES. I've never jacked it and would like to pump some grease in the bearings. I spoke to Anderson and Camco, they both said that their rapid jack and trailer buddy will not work with the Mor/Ryd suspension system. So, I bought a 12 ton bottle jack. Is it safe to jack with a bottle jack? Where should I jack it, the frame as stated in the manual or under the axle U bolt as I have read in other places? Any suggestions on cribbing or a more stable platform than the axle resting on a small diameter jack? Should I use jack stands while pumping the grease or is the jack good enough? Obviously I've never done this and could use some advice. Thanks
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07-20-2017, 08:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,244
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MORryde says this;
PROCEDURES FOR JACKING UP UNIT
It is permissible to jack up a unit equipped with a MORryde Independent Rubber Suspension System only on the Beam Assembly under the Rubber Springs or the frame of the trailer.
The most efficient location to raise a trailer is at the frame.
Jacks and safety stands should be positioned towards the front and rear portion of the trailer frame.
To perform suspension work tires should be approximately 4” above the ground.
__________________
'03 Dodge 2500 Cummins HO 3.73 NV5600 Jacobs
'98 3500 DRW 454 4x4 4.10 crew cab
'97 Park Avanue RK 28' 2 slides
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07-20-2017, 09:08 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,194
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My manual is very specific about the jacking location. It is not under the axle. I do have leaf suspension.
__________________
Brian
2016 RAM 3500 6.7L DRW
2018 Chaparral 360IBL, Andersen Ultimate II hitch
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07-21-2017, 09:32 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vancouver Wash
Posts: 7,227
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Frame only.....axles are spendy and not where you'll be when you need one.
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07-21-2017, 09:52 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,500
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Don't start pumping grease ! You will just blow thru,your seals and onto the brakes. Those zerts are ok for boat trailers without brakes. Best way take off wheel and repack by hand.
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07-21-2017, 10:08 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacknife
Don't start pumping grease ! You will just blow thru,your seals and onto the brakes. Those zerts are ok for boat trailers without brakes. Best way take off wheel and repack by hand.
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X2.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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07-21-2017, 10:15 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacknife
Don't start pumping grease ! You will just blow thru,your seals and onto the brakes. Those zerts are ok for boat trailers without brakes. Best way take off wheel and repack by hand.
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X3.
I'll lift ONE wheel with a bottle jack under the U bolt and then place wood blocks next to the jack under the other U bolt......other wheel are blocked front and back.
__________________
Outdoor RV 270DBHS
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07-21-2017, 11:24 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 293
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Friends don't let friends pump grease in their rv axles with brakes. Believe me I found out the hard way that the Chinese seals will leak and you will have to replace the brakes. Its a great idea in theory, but it sure didn't work out for me. I just check and lube them up once a year. That gives you an excuse to check the brake shoes and hardware also.
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07-21-2017, 01:17 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vancouver Wash
Posts: 7,227
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I've used the zerk for 7 years without a problem......when I switched to discs, there was not one spot of grease on the backside of the seals, and Chinese brgs were like new......after 30,000 miles.....follow the manual!
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07-22-2017, 04:41 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Central Vermont
Posts: 1,485
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One: Do not use shop grease gun as they pump too much, too fast and will blow by the seals.
Two: With a manual grease gun, rotate the tire as you grease and take your time. When new grease starts coming out, you are done.
I have a MorRyde CRE3000 and use an Andersen Rapid Jack on a board to raise one tire. I've had my trailer slip off both the jack and jack stand.
__________________
2015 F350 XLT PSD CCSB SRW, Andersen Ultimate hitch
'12 Cougar High Country 299RKS, Mor/Ryde Pinbox
1/77 Armor Bn, 5th Mech, I Corps
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07-23-2017, 05:24 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 2
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When you jacked the trailer did you jack under the axles or the frame the time it slipped?
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07-23-2017, 06:26 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Central Vermont
Posts: 1,485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mets721
When you jacked the trailer did you jack under the axles or the frame the time it slipped?
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I had jacked it at the axle u-bolts and placed the jack stand just on the frame just in front of the front spring hanger. Metal on metal is just too slick to be dependable. I've since got a jack with a cradle on the top.
__________________
2015 F350 XLT PSD CCSB SRW, Andersen Ultimate hitch
'12 Cougar High Country 299RKS, Mor/Ryde Pinbox
1/77 Armor Bn, 5th Mech, I Corps
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07-24-2017, 12:07 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 199
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>"Metal on metal is just too slick to be dependable."
Yup. If you don't have another jack, a good piece of wood placed between the surfaces can reduce slippage.
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