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Old 10-25-2021, 05:55 AM   #1
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Leveling issue

When I parked my fiver, I thought I had it pretty level. Now it apparently is off just enough to make doors not stay open, etc. I am wondering if anyone has ever jacked up the wheels and put blocks under them without hooking the truck back up, etc. Only needs to come up less than an inch or so..


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Old 10-25-2021, 06:04 AM   #2
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From a safety perspective I would not jack up the wheels. Believe you could achieve the same outcome by raising the jacks and putting blocks under them, vice the wheels. Much safer.
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Old 10-25-2021, 06:08 AM   #3
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I think it would be better to take 15 minutes and do it safely! You probably don't have to disconnect everything, just move enough to put blocks.

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Old 10-25-2021, 09:31 AM   #4
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From a safety perspective I would not jack up the wheels. Believe you could achieve the same outcome by raising the jacks and putting blocks under them, vice the wheels. Much safer.

My rig doesn't have leveling jacks, just rear stablizers and of course the front jacks. no way to raise them and put a block under them...
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Old 10-25-2021, 09:33 AM   #5
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I think it would be better to take 15 minutes and do it safely! You probably don't have to disconnect everything, just move enough to put blocks.

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I was looking at it as if I was blocking up a modular home, they just sit on the wheels until you get them level. Blocked lots of them, was worried about the stress on the front landing gear, when I was jacking it up.
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Old 10-28-2021, 02:53 PM   #6
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Unsafe how? Don't see a problem if done properly, and in fact have done it. Chock the other side properly and do one axle at a time. The other one will keep both feet on the ground.
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Old 10-29-2021, 06:14 AM   #7
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Why not just do it right the first time, before you unhook? That's what levels are for.
Don't assume for a minute that the doors are hung plumb in a RV.
Shower, sinks, tanks, refrigs, and beds are more important.
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Old 10-29-2021, 07:17 AM   #8
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I have always done it the easy/safe way for me on a relevel/flat tire change on all my rv and non rv trailers with std leaf spring suspensions.
On my rv trailer I Simply slide my very old 4500 lb rated 2 speed crank up type scissor under one end of the axle next to the Ubolt and lift it high enough to slide one of my many different sizes of wood blocks/boards under the tire and let the axle back down.
Nothing gets bent or crushed the way I do it.
If more is needed just repeat the process till you get what you want. Hell you may have to jack the trailer out of your level bubble to get a door to close like you want.
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Old 10-29-2021, 02:36 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Toby Dog View Post
Why not just do it right the first time, before you unhook? That's what levels are for.
Don't assume for a minute that the doors are hung plumb in a RV.
Shower, sinks, tanks, refrigs, and beds are more important.
So as not to sound like an ass, I did it the way I normally do, the bubble gauge on the front of my fifer said it was level, when hooked to the truck. but once the jacks were down and unhooked the side to side was off. Not sure what happened to cause it to be of, but it is...Am going to jack it up using my hydraulic jack under the axles, one at a time and block...
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Old 10-30-2021, 07:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
So as not to sound like an ass, I did it the way I normally do, the bubble gauge on the front of my fifer said it was level, when hooked to the truck. but once the jacks were down and unhooked the side to side was off. Not sure what happened to cause it to be of, but it is...Am going to jack it up using my hydraulic jack under the axles, one at a time and block...
Some folks camp on a paved surface pad. Others like myself camp on dirt...gravel...sand which the trailer will settle over time especially sand....or if its rained enough to turn dirt to mud ...and wind gusting causing the trailer to move a bit.
Several reasons a trailer may have to be releveled.
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