Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > 5th Wheel Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-06-2014, 08:08 AM   #29
IC2
Senior Member
 
IC2's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,577
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akibase View Post
r, the way I fill them. I would suggest that they have the bare minimum of required grease at the factory, and are not filled.
The hubs are totally full of whatever 'grease' Dexter (Lippert?) uses based on my four and quite a few more that Glendale Titanium owners found when we had to replace the OEM supplied Nevr-Lube failure prone axles. Our new Montana has Eze-Lube hubs. They will be disassembled either this fall or before use in the spring, cleaned out and Mystick JT-6 installed and new outer (at a minimum) Timken bearings - again, based on the low end clunks that I encountered with the Titanium.

Of course, this is my conservative decision. The existing Chinese bearings would probably last longer then our trailer ownership.

Now on to some other emotionaal discussion
__________________
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')w/disc brakes
IC2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-06-2014, 10:54 AM   #30
Senior Member
 
Akibase's Avatar
 
Forest River Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 254
Thank You for your comments. Maybe I have just been lucky. I believe that semi annually is sufficient, unless you put a lot of miles on.
__________________
I HAVE NEVER FAILED, BUT I HAVE HAD SUCCESS IN FINDING OUT WHAT DOESN'T WORK.

I PLAN TO LIVE FOREVER. IT'S WORKING SO FAR.
Akibase is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2014, 07:34 PM   #31
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 73
But where to you get these "better quality bearings " that everyone talks about and approx. what is the cost?
jim81147 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 09:49 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 6,789
We all know that Timkin roller bearings were/are high quality and made in the US but we're not real sure who makes them these days. Also I don't know of a single china motorcycle being sold on the US market. There may be some but. We do know that Japan has been making MC's for years and years. They also make a pretty darn good vehicle. That said, TOYO makes a very good bearing. That's what I've used when replacing the china bearings. Timkin bearings are available and are more expensive so you could also try them but I've been happy with the TOYO bearings and they were also recommended by several technically informed individuals.

TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 12:46 PM   #33
IC2
Senior Member
 
IC2's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,577
I just ordered Timkens from Rock Auto Parts - one inner and all four outers for 6K axles. My recollection was that the entire order was less then $60. Just input the part number (RockAuto Parts Catalog)

SKF, National, Fafnir, Bower are all acceptable brands as well
__________________
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')w/disc brakes
IC2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2014, 06:30 PM   #34
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 73
Thank you all for the input.
jim81147 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2014, 05:47 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
I just ordered Timkens from Rock Auto Parts - one inner and all four outers for 6K axles. My recollection was that the entire order was less then $60. Just input the part number (RockAuto Parts Catalog)

SKF, National, Fafnir, Bower are all acceptable brands as well
I just used this site. It is excellent-Thanks
Steve
sk734 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2014, 09:27 PM   #36
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 73
IC2 , thanks for the info , timkens are on the way . 5 inners , 5 outers , all with races for $179.50 .
jim81147 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2014, 04:55 AM   #37
IC2
Senior Member
 
IC2's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,577
Steve & Jim - I hope you are pleased with Rock Auto. Their prices just cannot be beaten anywhere usually even with shipping plus they often have a few percent off coupon code. I generally order any non-OEM specific automotive parts from them as well if I can wait a few days - like all new brakes shortly for my truck.

It does sound like the price of bearings has gone up some since I bought my last batch for te last trailer - ouch. I intend on replacing this 5ers as well in the spring when I do the tires.

Dave W
__________________
Dave W along with my DW, Susan and our poodlepups, Callie & Molly,2011 Ford F250 6.7 CCLB, 5er Hitch Option w/B&W Hitch,,Ride Rite air bags, 2014 Montana High Country 343RL (38')w/disc brakes
IC2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2014, 09:29 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: lancaster CA
Posts: 586
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
Here's MHO. I wouldn't give you 2 cents for any type of EZ-Lube set up. When most vehicles had front wheel bearings we serviced them every 30,000 to 40,000 miles. WHY,WHY,WHY does the TT industry think it is necessary to service their bearings every 12 months or 12,000 miles???? There is really no good reason. Unless you want to check the electric brakes. Are their bearings that lousy that they need inspected that often???? When you service or pay to have service work done long before it is necessary you are spending $$$$$ that you don't have to and more importantly you are opening yourself up to making an error which could cost you more than you bargained for. What can go wrong??? Forget to put the cotter pin back in. Incorrect bearing adjustment, Pack a bearing that is already bad because somebody does not know what to look for when inspecting bearings. Ruin an inner seal during the install. Replace a bearing race and not seat it correctly.
Now on the the EZ-Lube system. First of all they want you to raise the wheel and squirt some grease into the hub. That forces grease into the outer bearing through a very small hole in the axle and into the inner bearing. You pump more grease in and it forces the grease through the inner bearing and back out. Sometimes it won't work that way and the grease gun blows the inner seal out and you grease the brake shoes and drums. Now you have a more serious problem.

Service the bearings by hand packing with a good synthetic lube. Correctly set the bearing clearance and leave it alone for at least 2 years.

TeJay
X2 lubed mine at 50,000 miles and 10 years along with changing brake shoes and backing plates. Now, Another 10 later and 28,000 miles I occasionly check for play in the wheels. Still not ready for a repack.
__________________
2001 dodge 2500 auto, with billet Mojave Green torque converter with 2nd gear lockup mod, raptor 100 fuel transfer pump and gauges. RV275 injectors
94 Alpenlite 27sl with many mods. Master mechanic over 55 years
oldbeek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2019, 03:08 PM   #39
Junior Member
 
RGulley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Hanna City, IL
Posts: 17
Wow, I just read this entire discussion on bearings. How interesting.

I just returned from a 2.5 week trip from Illinois to New Orleans to Texas. Coming home from texas on OK border I had a bearing failure. Destroyed the spindle of course and everything attached.

I have a 2017 DRV FULLHOUSE. 3-8K dexter axles. I removed the entire spring suspension, and replaced with a trailing arm, 100% air ride system with fluid filled shocks. Everything is welded in, solid as a rock. Tires are Goodyear G114 17.5 wheels. Weight on axles according to Cat scales is 21,743 lbs. Tires and/or axles are rated for 24K. Now you have the info on the rig.

Before I left for said trip, I greased all bearings thru the "bearing buddy".

SO, now that you have the foundation, I will continue. We limped into a place in OK 3 miles from border that was a RV repair. That had a "axle expert" on staff that did the evaluation on the wheels and bearings. he found 3 other wheels that were loose. I explained I greased before trip. He said I may have put to much grease in and blew the seal on the back? Anyway, I told him I wanted to get rig home, so pull remaining 5 wheels and do whatever nesessary (new bearings/repack/inspect/retighten, etc) to make sure they r perfect. $500 dollars later he said everything is perfect. Bearings were fine, inspected and re-greased, seated and ready to go.

I was driving 65 (5 miles under limit due to 5 wheels instead of 6) on a very smooth I-44 and in-between Joplin and Springfield it burnt another bearing set on same side. Now Im down to one tire on drivers side. Made several calls, limped to a place where the man is an individual working on axles for a living. Between him and another man, will be giving me options next week.

He thought the RV repair place may have tightened them too tight? Also said that the time frame they billed me for (3 hours)it was impossible to remove all 5 tires, calipers, drums and bearings, inspect, re-pack and reinstall.

So now, thoughts?
__________________
2017 DRV Fullhouse with air ride independent suspension-2017 Ford F450
RGulley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2019, 04:56 PM   #40
Registered User
 
Bob_C's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vancouver Wash
Posts: 7,230
Bearing Buddy is entirely a different thing....My Alco brand axles have the EZ Lube system, and have not had one problem in 100,000 miles.....
Bob_C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2019, 07:52 AM   #41
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 6,789
I've never been a fan of any type of bearing aid to make greasing those bearings easier. There's just to many things that can go wrong.

Taught HS for 35 years and after listening to a tech who worked at the indy track on those race cars I followed his procedure for bearing adjustment and NEVER had a bearing come back to me. Every year we went through the entire procedure for R&R bearing races, bearings and the complete job of had packing bearings.

Yes using bearing packers works fine but most won't have one so my students learned doing it by hand. Also started using only synthetic bearing lubricants. If the grease test better than stock why not use it??

The adjustment procedure is simple. After all bearings are packed install then using a 1/2" D ratchet tighten the axle nut as close to 1/4 turn as you can. WHY?? That assures that all races (if removed) are properly seated on the shoulder. UN-loosen the axle nut 1/2 a turn. Now while moving the wheel side to side hand tighten the axle nut until any movement just goes away. Generally around .003 is a sufficient bearing clearance.

This is the more difficult part. Most systems use a type of thin (Axle nut) cover that has different spaced metal tangs. This is used so once the axle nut is set for correct bearing clearance you only have to move the thin castle nut cover until the cotter pin lines up with the hole in the axle and a cotter pin can be inserted.

If you have the older style solid castle nut you will have to move the nut until the holes line up. Don't tighten the nut but loosen it until a cotter pin can be inserted. If you are at .003 and tighten it you may/will be to tight.

Why your rebuilt system failed can only be a guess and at this point it doesn't matter.

One of the main problems of any system designed to make greasing bearings easy does just that. When has a guy ever stopped at 1 or 2 squirts of grease. If 2 are good then 4 has to be better. Several report they had no issues with the bearing buddy. They probably used good grease and didn't over lube it and blow out the rear seal.

The second thing wrong with travel trailers is in most cases and we owned a few, they are built with axles and tires that can just barely carry the intended weight. That puts the tires and bearings on the edge of destruction. In addition they use cheap china bearings.

In almost all other bearing applications that I'm familiar with bearings do not require an annual bearing pack and adjustment. In fact in some applications bearings can last for years. In 99% of vehicles we serviced we packed front bearings when we did a front brake job usually around 30,000 to 40,000 miles.

Why does the TT industry require owners to annually inspect and pack?? Simple!! Since the bearings are minimal and cheap they want you to inspect them annually to catch any issues.

We took 1 trip from AR to FL in our new TT. It was distance of around 2,000 miles. After we arrived back home I decided to inspect the leaf spring shackle bushings with the intention of installing new wet bushings so they could be lubricated. Every shackle bushings was worn out.

It was at this point since I realized how cheaply the TT was made and that included no self-adjusting brakes either it was time to get a different TT. The next one was better but it was totaled by a dump truck and we eventually went back to a motor home. With a MH at least the chassis is a truck intended and built to handle the load.
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2019, 08:29 AM   #42
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Nine Mile Falls WA / Arizona City AZ
Posts: 1,066
I just opened my wheels for the second time of ownership.... I travel 4 months a year and have been all over with my 5th wheel....


My process is to raise each wheel taking the load off the bearings... and attach a grease gun and give it 4-6 pumps of grease once a year....


Now years later I decided to clean and repack the bearings... I expected to find the cavity between the front bearing and the rear bearing full of grease and this wasn't the case...



My bearing were in good condition but the magnets needed to be replaced.. they were toast... I'm waiting on Amazon for new magnets, seals and dust caps... should be here today... My axles are 8K each... and use 12 x 2 brakes...



I always use an exhaust brake and my brake shoes are 40% to 50% so they will be cleaned (washed, hot soapy water) and the complete assembly will go back together..


I use ONLY a high pressure, synthetic grease that has a high drop point of at least 450*F... these greases, manufactured by several manufactures are awful sticky... I hate getting it on my hands, concrete, clothes because you might as well throw the stuff away.... but its a great grease... and that's part of the formula...


I also do a walk around when we stop at a rest stop and I scan each hub with a infrared temp gauge... I've never seen over 125*F on the sunny side of the vehicle... yep the sun side will have higher tire, hub temperatures...



Like I mentioned above this is the second time I've had these apart... and I'm convinced that I have a good "best practice" technique...
__________________
Retired Business Owner, Re-manufacturing HD Clutches, Brake Shoes, Air Compressors, Sales & Installation of PacBrake and other Industrial Friction
jelag is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wheel Axle Leaking OldHiker Spartan Motorhome Chassis Forum 19 04-21-2014 10:52 PM
Sealed Wheel Bearings cochise1949 Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 2 04-14-2014 08:57 PM
Keystone Wheel Bearing Recall campnfool Keystone 0 04-09-2014 07:12 AM
Tag axle and towing and slides Statcman4414 Class A Motorhome Discussions 3 04-04-2014 06:08 AM
Axle weights, few questions smlranger Country Coach Owners Forum 8 06-20-2013 07:42 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.