Lugnuts--Stainless capped vs Chrome Plated

[chaps2018]

Doing some bearing/brake work recently and noticed I stripped a lug nut.

Go to my local trailer parts/shop looking for a replacement. Guy I have been using for guidance/advice for several years tells me--"...This is from an RV. It is a stainless steel capped lug nut..." He proceeds to tell me that the caps will eventually either strip around the steel nut or separate from the nut. You will be stuck on the side of the road with no way to remove the wheel...it will have to be drilled out.

He recommends moving to chrome plated steel lugnuts ($4ea x 32 needed=$139 w/tax). He notes two things-- the chrome plated version has a tendency to seize so use anti-seize when installing them. The chrome plated version tends to rust in a year or two.

My question to you guys--Is this cap stripping/separation from the inner steel lug nut a thing? Again, just to clarify this is not referring to the threads that contact the wheel stud, just the stainless steel cap over the lug nut.

First pic: Left: Chrome plated lug, Right: OEM stainless steel capped lug

Second Pic: Notice the gap on the top where the stainless cap is starting to separate from the underlying nut. I can tap it with my fingernail and it sounds hollow.

[C.B.]

E-bay:

20 pack SOLID 304 stainless steel 1/2 X 20 lug nuts for trailer.


$51.95

C.B.

[Cumminsfan]

I had issues with those stainless caps once. I replaced all the lugnuts with chrome ones. I was fighting them when either changing a tire or repacking. After a couple gave me trouble I junked the stainless and when chrome.
They will eventually strip.

[Roy-c]

Years ago GM used those stainless covered lug nuts on Autos. They were a giant pain. The lug nuts rust under the stainless causing it to swell and then you can't get a socket on the lugnut. Your mechanic is doing you a great service telling you to replace them with chrome plated solid nuts. If you don't then you WILL end up stuck on the road somewhere ( usually in East Overshoe Nowhere on a holiday weekend ) HEED his advice!!!

[ransil]

I use Mcguard lug nuts , car pool guy had a flat on hottest day of the year and had the capped lugs. We beat the crap out of them to change the tire.
I ordered a new sets for my cars and his the next day , bulk buy off ebay just know your thread size

[CecilD]

I replaced my stainless capped lug nuts with McGard chrome plated nuts. 5 years, no seizing and no rust. I run them on aluminum rims and they are torqued down correctly. McGard nuts are good quality. They were recommended to me on a forum which I appreciate.

Your guy is way over priced unless labor to change and retorque is included.

[consolenut]

Id go chrome but anti-seeze is a bad idea. The lug nuts will loosen up. I had the same idea and i was always torquing the lug nuts back down.

[IC2]

Here's a good place to look:https://www.summitracing.com/search/...3a1-2-20-rh-in


Your trailer should have 1/2-20 pieces

[chunker]

I replaced the Jeep Wrangler "toad" lug nuts for the same issue. The shell cracks and makes removal difficult to impossible especially on the side of the road. Solid lug nuts.

[Jshopes81]

Yes its a thing, theyre junk. I do think the mechanics price is high though. I always use antiseize on my studs and ive never had an issue. You dont need a bunch, but it sucks having a nut rust to a stud.

[ransil]

Originally Posted by consolenut

Id go chrome but anti-seeze is a bad idea. The lug nuts will loosen up. I had the same idea and i was always torquing the lug nuts back down.

Living in the rust belt its a must have, I use that stuff on everything

[Jshopes81]

Originally Posted by ransil

Living in the rust belt its a must have, I use that stuff on everything

I coat my wheel mount surface in it. Ive seen wheels rust to the hubs if you dont, then youve gotta beat it off with a sledge.