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12-18-2017, 02:33 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,111
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Thnere are so many things that cause bushing failure. Suspension running gear 'all' have a part in performance and longevity. Components have to work in concert with each other. Load, tire pressure, road surface, shock absorbers, wheel balance, bushing design and quality just to mention a few all effect bushing life. Some items are given others are under our control. Premature bushing wearout may be reduced by better shock absorbers, using minimal tire pressure closer to what's actually needed, and maybe better more frequent lubricantion can all produce longer bushing life. Are most of us thinking about prevention of early failure.
CLIFFORD
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12-18-2017, 02:48 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oroville, CA
Posts: 3,133
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Make cheap plastic bushings last??
1). every ST tire maker says to run TT tires at sidewall max pressure
2). No shocks on my TT, no room either, I asked Morryde.
3.) LUBRICATION?? How can you lube the standard bushings? No Zerk fitting.
Trailer bushings are junk, For those who have NeverFail and have had success, that's great, but I'm disappointed to hear about their failures.
I have to replace my worn out bronze bushings, I'd hoped that Never Fail was the cure.....
__________________
Bill, Kathi and Zorro; '05 Beaver Patriot Thunder
2012 Sunnybrook Harmony 21FBS (SQEZINN)
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
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12-18-2017, 05:28 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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"Make cheap plastic bushings last??
1). every ST tire maker says to run TT tires at sidewall max pressure
2). No shocks on my TT, no room either, I asked Morryde.
3.) LUBRICATION?? How can you lube the standard bushings? No Zerk fitting.
Trailer bushings are junk, For those who have NeverFail and have had success, that's great, but I'm disappointed to hear about their failures.
I have to replace my worn out bronze bushings, I'd hoped that Never Fail was"
Look at my link, Post 13. The Never Fail bushing, polyamide, is better, according to SKF then a standard bronze but there are at least 2-3 others that are even better. If you can find a source, that is. I'll be looking.
If your trailer has a mechanical problem, i.e. raw edges on the spring eye as mentioned, you really aren't giving true life information. Again, will be installing a hundred bucks worth of new springs and for sure will take a look at any potential problem and use a die grinder and a carbide burr if indeed there is ragged edge.
As far as road conditions and tire inflation - again, the worst performer is a bronze bushing. Balanced tires - my $200 each LT, not crap $75 ST tires are. Shocks - have a MORryd equalizer suspension that works well. I also have two MORryde X-Factor cross members and disc brakes to reduce unsprung weight. Lube - before ANY trip
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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12-18-2017, 05:45 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Alberta
Posts: 1,591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
If your trailer has a mechanical problem, i.e. raw edges on the spring eye as mentioned, you really aren't giving true life information. Again, will be installing a hundred bucks worth of new springs and for sure will take a look at any potential problem and use a die grinder and a carbide burr if indeed there is ragged edge.
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I would not classify my spring eye gap as a mechanical problem, they were new springs when the polyamides were installed, there was no edge, simply a space where the forming of the spring eye left a small (less than 1/8 inch) gap between the rounded portion and the flat area for the rest of the spring.
As well the loading on the polyamide wore the thickness through pretty good for simply 6000 miles, IMHO.
__________________
Towr: 2007 Country Coach Allure 470 - 37 Sunset Bay Cummins 400 ISL, Coach #31563
Toad: 2016 F150 King Ranch - 3.5L EcoBoost 4x4 Supercrew (curb weight 4,775 lbs)
Toad: SOLD 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee (yes, it has a Hemi) (curb weight 4,720 lbs)
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01-02-2018, 05:26 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGlenn
As well the loading on the polyamide wore the thickness through pretty good for simply 6000 miles, IMHO.
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There's a lot of meat there yet, flip them over and put them back in
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01-02-2018, 05:45 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: N E Ohio
Posts: 4,403
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I have run the bronze bushings in 2 5ers and have had zero problems. I jack the weight off and grease them yearly with a good quality EP grease. If the bolt is positioned incorrectly, it is possible that you're not getting the proper lubrication to the bushing causing your premature wear.
Frank
__________________
05 Alfa Gold 40' Motor Home "Goldie",
03 Malibu Toad
in a 24' CargoMate trailer.
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01-02-2018, 08:39 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,500
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You need to jack them up . Get the weight off the suspension for Max lubrication. Use a good high quality grease and great them at least every 3000 miles. Pump grease until nothing but new grease is coming out .
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01-03-2018, 06:05 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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OK to answer the current - yes, it gets jacked to remove the weight., Yes, the bolts are installed correctly. Additionally, I cross drilled the bolts, then the holes radiused for two grease outlets and better lube distribution.
As far as never having a problem with wet bolts - about the only way to tell if they are worn is by disassembly. If you haven't done that disassembly, you have no idea of the condition.
I pushed the buy button and have a set of Never Fail bushings. I will grease them lightly regardless of the manufacturer's warning since the wet bolts will still be in place as I NEVER want to go through this exercise again.
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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