New Alliance 310RL just brought it home

[RVnAggie]

Originally Posted by Jerry Burks

Update on my old improvement list post in this thread: everything done including the dinette (from RecPro). Final job was the Solid Step leg latches. These ball detent pins drove me nuts...

The leg latches on the Solid Steps look great. Did you build those? If so, nice work.
I love my steps, but hate the pins….have considered doing something to mine.

[Dlleno]

+1. The pins are a pain for sure. We've been just living with the pain lol but I agree dude that is a nice bomb (better off modified baby!).

Additional photos gratefully received!

[Jerry Burks]

Originally Posted by Dlleno

............Additional photos gratefully received!

Here some more. It is a simple lever on either side of the stairs, cut from 3/4" aluminum plate. I used a mill but I guess it could be done with a bandsaw and drill press. If the aluminum plate is not available or too difficult to cut, the lever surely could be made from bent 3/4"x1/4" aluminum bar stock.

The detent pins are partially threaded 1/4" bolts with the head cut off and ground to a tip. They are then threaded into tapped holes in the aluminum and fixed with split washers and a jam nut. The distance between the pivot hole and the pins is critical (about 3.21") and both pins are 1" apart. I had to file the corresponding hole in the black sheet metal for the upper pin to make it go smootly. On the picture it looks like the pins are not lining up with the holes in the leg rail but actually they fall into place. The pins are closer to the inside edge for that.

For the 1/4" pivot bolt I used the existing stamped holes in the black sheet metal, but added a 1/4" plastic spacer bushing to push the lever away from the big hex head of the lowest step plate. The pivot hole can only be 1/8" from the lower edge of the lever or less to not interfere with the side plates. The angle between upper and lower part of the lever allows for about 5/8" movement at the pins.



I hope that helps. It took me half a day to get it done.

[Dlleno]

nice ! can you shows us the dinette mod?

[RVnAggie]

Originally Posted by Jerry Burks

Here some more. It is a simple lever on either side of the stairs, cut from 3/4" aluminum plate. I used a mill but I guess it could be done with a bandsaw and drill press. If the aluminum plate is not available or too difficult to cut, the lever surely could be made from bent 3/4"x1/4" aluminum bar stock.

The detent pins are partially threaded 1/4" bolts with the head cut off and ground to a tip. They are then threaded into tapped holes in the aluminum and fixed with split washers and a jam nut. The distance between the pivot hole and the pins is critical (about 3.21") and both pins are 1" apart. I had to file the corresponding hole in the black sheet metal for the upper pin to make it go smootly. On the picture it looks like the pins are not lining up with the holes in the leg rail but actually they fall into place. The pins are closer to the inside edge for that.

For the 1/4" pivot bolt I used the existing stamped holes in the black sheet metal, but added a 1/4" plastic spacer bushing to push the lever away from the big hex head of the lowest step plate. The pivot hole can only be 1/8" from the lower edge of the lever or less to not interfere with the side plates. The angle between upper and lower part of the lever allows for about 5/8" movement at the pins.



I hope that helps. It took me half a day to get it done.

Thanks for sharing the details and the extra pics; again, nice job for sure.

Question….Have you considered putting a spring on the back side of the upper “handle” end of the levers between them and the step frame so they always remain in the “latched” position unless the lever is purposefully pressed to adjust the legs? Might not be beneficial since the business end will obviously stay latched in place when steps are lowered and make ground contact.

Just thinking since I have the frame mounted storage box under the door in the space where the folding steps used to hide, and that I sometimes may raise my Solid Steps to travel position a few times to get things in/out of the storage box while set up. Wondering if the latches might be prone to flopping open during raising/lowering of the steps thus loosing the leg adjustment.

Thanks again for sharing this mod and Safe Travels,

[Jerry Burks]

Originally Posted by Dlleno

nice ! can you shows us the dinette mod?

I have the trailer in storage now but will take pics next time I am there.

The reason for the modification was that (while the chairs look somewhat more elegant) I was tired of strapping them to the table for travel and unstrapping to use. Also, it needed cushions to prevent the beveled table edge dinging the chair backs and for 4 people to fetch and unfold the second chair set. We were used to the dinette from our old motorhome and just find it more practical including the storage under the seats.

I bought 2 RecPro 38" benches, maybe should have gone for 40". They are relatively low compared to the chairs and I lowered the table wall mounts accordingly. That in turn led to a hiccup since the table now prevented the bench seats from flipping up to access the storage. So I bit the bullet, sliced the curvy beveled table edge off for a straight vertical edge and spray painted the edge to match the rest. But I will take some pictures when I can.

Originally Posted by RVnAggie

.......Question….Have you considered putting a spring on the back side of the upper “handle” end of the levers between them and the step frame so they always remain in the “latched” position unless the lever is purposefully pressed to adjust the legs? ......

Oh, forgot to mention that. Yes there is a recess in the underside of the upper part of the lever to keep a spring in place (about 3/8"dia). That is kind of necessary, otherwise the pins would not be securely in place.

With pins engaged, I can lift the stairs up and down without losing position.

However, I lift it up for travel only and ​then it is helpful to let the legs slide in while stairs are almost up. At the new site I fold the stair down and then let the legs slide out again until they hit the ground and pull a little more until engaged.

[RVnAggie]

Originally Posted by Jerry Burks

I have the trailer in storage now but will take pics next time I am there.

The reason for the modification was that (while the chairs look somewhat more elegant) I was tired of strapping them to the table for travel and unstrapping to use. Also, it needed cushions to prevent the beveled table edge dinging the chair backs and for 4 people to fetch and unfold the second chair set. We were used to the dinette from our old motorhome and just find it more practical including the storage under the seats.

I bought 2 RecPro 38" benches, maybe should have gone for 40". They are relatively low compared to the chairs and I lowered the table wall mounts accordingly. That in turn led to a hiccup since the table now prevented the bench seats from flipping up to access the storage. So I bit the bullet, sliced the curvy beveled table edge off for a straight vertical edge and spray painted the edge to match the rest. But I will take some pictures when I can.




Oh, forgot to mention that. Yes there is a recess in the underside of the upper part of the lever to keep a spring in place (about 3/8"dia). That is kind of necessary, otherwise the pins would not be securely in place.

With pins engaged, I can lift the stairs up and down without losing position.

However, I lift it up for travel only and ​then it is helpful to let the legs slide in while stairs are almost up. At the new site I fold the stair down and then let the legs slide out again until they hit the ground and pull a little more until engaged.

Nicely done, for sure….Safe Travels.

[Jerry Burks]

Originally Posted by Dlleno

nice ! can you shows us the dinette mod?

Finally got around to the dinette pics, see below. the bench height is about 2-3" lower than the chairs so I had the option of raising the benches on spacers or lowering the table brackets on the wall. I opted for lowering the table. You can also see the straightened table edges.

Further down a picture of my latest mod, adding a valve to the sewer connection (recommendation from this forum). I found it less than desirable to get sprayed with gray or black water when opening that cap. Happened mostly when altitude changed or temperature increased after the last dump and the trapped air inside the long plumbing had more pressure than outside. Now I can hook up the hose and then let the pressure out.

[Jerry Burks]

And another improvement...
I found the cheapo steel strap very hard to fasten and remove. Eventually the tiny rivets of the latch broke and I had to find another solution. Strange enough there does not seem to be a professional aftermarket strap for propane bottles, only replacement I found was the same crappy steel straps. I ended up using regular 1" ratchet straps. They are attached to the steel cabinet wall with aluminum bars and total 16 pop rivets (3/16") per bottle. I guess that will be sufficient.

While I had the bottles out I installed a set of the ultrasonic propane level sensors as well.

[BirchyBoy]

We looked at some Paradigm’s today and really liked the fit and finish. We have our name on a 310RL that is arriving this week and we’re excited to see it. I have the build sheet and it seems to be the very “basic” model - no solar, no generator prep, single pane windows. Still very nicely built.

I’m curious what these would go for if not for the current “covid craze” in the marketplace. Can anyone share their prices over the last 12-18 months for the same model, maybe noting any extras?

For the record, the unit we’re looking at has a MSRP of $89,900 and the selling price is $69,900 + tax, etc.

[r3842id]

Originally Posted by BirchyBoy

I’m curious what these would go for if not for the current “covid craze” in the marketplace. Can anyone share their prices over the last 12-18 months for the same model, maybe noting any extras?

For the record, the unit we’re looking at has a MSRP of $89,900 and the selling price is $69,900 + tax, etc.

There is a definite craze. I personally didn't buy an Alliance but in the past 6 months we have negotiated over 40 different deals for our personal purchases, family and a few friends and many of those were 310s and targeted and received 30% (more a few times) off of MSRP.

With Alliance I would work with the correct MSRP sheet requesting from their office as pricing has increased several times and they would send me the spreadsheet with the updated pricing. If the unit was on the lot when old pricing was in place I would negotiate off the old pricing and so on.

Of course we ran into dealers not willing to move with limited inventory but almost always got into our target range. We never had a problem with a fresh order with exception of one Ally favored dealer in Texas. He apparently receives enough positive referrals he stays in the mid to low 20s for percentage - however financing will achieve a higher 20s discount with him.

We have negotiated all of over the US so not a regional thing. The oddest thing I ran into during this time was a conversation with sales manager in South Carolina. After we worked together on pricing for a bit and had become friendly realizing we couldn't come to terms he told me he is in an agreement with 20 other dealerships in his area not to drop below a certain percentage.

Alliance is doing great things and their customer support is outstanding - likely even unmatched. The price you listed isn't bad especially if you are happy with the dealership you are working with and they are local. Perhaps you still have room to shave some of that away - for sure if that was initial discussions. Just my experience.

[BirchyBoy]

Thanks. I have the factory build sheet showing the “base” msrp before the required packages. It is $70k + $19k. The selling price is 22% of MSRP which isn’t perfect but it’s good. I’m working with the sales manager who sold us our first RV in 2014, and he has diverted the incoming unit from his other dealership to the one local to us, for us. I asked him if he could do any better and he said he could sell a fifth wheel hitch at cost but nothing off the RV.

We looked at an Avalanche, similar floor plan, which is selling for $53k. I need to look at the overall quality to decide.

[r3842id]

Maybe not an issue with your dealer but when I have been provided build sheets from dealers I still validate MSRP sheet provided from Alliance or the manufacturer in question. We had dealers provide us build sheets with incorrect pricing. A dealer in Oregon had a variance of 11k. Some manufacturers have that MSRP info on their site or within their mobile app but some you have to request it. Good luck. As I said prior 22% isn’t bad especially if you are happy with the dealership and is local and convenient. I would still check the price of that hitch against somebody like E-trailer. If I can be of any assistance feel feee to Direct message me.

[Jerry Burks]

We bought our 310RL in February at Bish's in Cheyenne, WY. The MSRP is not on the sales documents but IIRC it was around 83k back then. We tried 2 other dealers but this was the best we could get.

The sales price was $64,500 plus the ONAN Genset for $6,500 installed and the PullRite Superglide hitch (21k lbs) for $1,700 installed. We did not pay sales tax because we traded our old Class A and toad at a higher value (and IMO a fair price).

As it happens, there was the 190W solar package installed with 2kW inverter. But I guess that was an oversight, as it was not on the bill.