Nose High--Need to raise Pinbox but...

[chaps2018]

I'm riding a bit nose high. I raised the pinbox once already and was looking to do it again but I am concerned the new location is too close to the front cap.

I have not yet tried it but based on the measurements it will be close and I am thinking it might be too close even if I could get it bolted up. My concern is that if it is too close it might hit/crack the front cap while going down the road.

Have any of you ran into this clearance issue? I have no idea what is acceptable. It looks like I have about 7/8-1" clearance now and the hole spacing for the pinbox is on 1" centers. (If you had this issue did you enlarge the cutout in the front cap where the hitch mounts?)

Pix attached for your reference.

[Billett Bee]

By your pics, it looks like the rear bolts are up as high as it can go. Now to me if you can raise it up another round of holes, I would do it if you can get your bolts in both sides. I personally wouldn't care if it was touching the cap or not. Once it's bolted in it's not going to flex any and put any undue pressure on cap.
Is your fiver head in the bed of truck lowered down as low as it will go?
What's your clearance between bed rail sides and fiver overhang? should be around 7"+/-.

[Ray,IN]

I don't see any problem if the bolts are correctly torqued and re-checked prior to every trip.
Bed rail to 5er clearance should not be less than 6" to avoid contact.

[chaps2018]

Originally Posted by Billett Bee

By your pics, it looks like the rear bolts are up as high as it can go...
...Is your fiver head in the bed of truck lowered down as low as it will go?
What's your clearance between bed rail sides and fiver overhang? should be around 7"+/-.

Yes, I realize you can't tell by the pics but there are more bolt holes up inside the front cap that I can reach with a wrench.

Yes, the hitch in the truck is as low as it can go. (Andersen mounted on goose neck ball). Andersen ball on the lowest hole.

Bed rail clearance is near 7" (but I still seem to make contact occasionally...). I figured if I got into a jam at a campsite I could always raise the Andersen ball. (). Playing with fire...I know.

[Billett Bee]

Originally Posted by chaps2018

Yes, I realize you can't tell by the pics but there are more bolt holes up inside the front cap that I can reach with a wrench.

Yes, the hitch in the truck is as low as it can go. (Andersen mounted on goose neck ball). Andersen ball on the lowest hole.

Bed rail clearance is near 7" (but I still seem to make contact occasionally...). I figured if I got into a jam at a campsite I could always raise the Andersen ball. (). Playing with fire...I know.

I would raise the pin box up that final hole set at base of cap and tighten to specs and enjoy your journeys. Check for tq the first couple trips. With proper tightness that pin box isn't going anywhere and no need to worry about weight flex putting undue pressure on cap.

[chaps2018]

I should have mentioned in my initial post that my objective here is to get level yes, but also I noticed my drivers side rear tire is wearing quicker than the other three and was trying to get more weight off the rear axle.

As you would expect, the drivers rear wheel has the most weight. Here are the results of my most recent SMART-WEIGH

Front Drivers: 2550, Front Passenger: 2250, (Front Axle: 4800)
Rear Drivers: 2700, Rear Passenger: 2450, (Rear Axle: 5150)

Of course the left/right imbalance is driven by the slide configuration as you would expect (3 slides on drivers side, 1 on passenger side). Not much I can affect with my cargo locations.

I realize the wheel-wheel differences are in an acceptable range and well under the 7K axle spec so I may be just wasting time.

The other thing I wondered is if the tire wear on that wheel is driven by me favoring the drivers side backing in to a campsite.

I will keep measuring tread depth across each tire in order to catch this sort of thing before it turns into a blowout. I got a bit over 10k on the GY Endurance tire before I pulled it off (down to 3/32).

Thanks for your help.

[ScopesNC]

From what you say the AUH may not be a good fit for you. If your at 7 inch clearance already and hitting the bed. Have you looked at other pin boxes or hitches? Gen Y comes to mind right off.

[Billett Bee]

Originally Posted by chaps2018

I should have mentioned in my initial post that my objective here is to get level yes, but also I noticed my drivers side rear tire is wearing quicker than the other three and was trying to get more weight off the rear axle.

As you would expect, the drivers rear wheel has the most weight. Here are the results of my most recent SMART-WEIGH

Front Drivers: 2550, Front Passenger: 2250, (Front Axle: 4800)
Rear Drivers: 2700, Rear Passenger: 2450, (Rear Axle: 5150)

Of course the left/right imbalance is driven by the slide configuration as you would expect (3 slides on drivers side, 1 on passenger side). Not much I can affect with my cargo locations.

I realize the wheel-wheel differences are in an acceptable range and well under the 7K axle spec so I may be just wasting time.

The other thing I wondered is if the tire wear on that wheel is driven by me favoring the drivers side backing in to a campsite.

I will keep measuring tread depth across each tire in order to catch this sort of thing before it turns into a blowout. I got a bit over 10k on the GY Endurance tire before I pulled it off (down to 3/32).

Thanks for your help.

I have went through all of these same dilemmas your going through. I took interior storage weight and moved all the heaviest items up front in the rv for more pin weight and less on the trailer axles because I also have 1 tire that wears and breaks down quickly. The only thing i could come up with is weight because nothing is broken and all is aligned. Anyway I bought 1 load range G tire and put on my rim at the one location that was wearing and breaking down. Knock on wood no problems since and it's holding up great. Problems solved for me. Some say not to mix different load range tires but these are the same size and fixed my problem and I don't see where the problem would be. Tracks and stops great.

[corn18]

Originally Posted by chaps2018

I'm riding a bit nose high. I raised the pinbox once already and was looking to do it again but I am concerned the new location is too close to the front cap.

I have not yet tried it but based on the measurements it will be close and I am thinking it might be too close even if I could get it bolted up. My concern is that if it is too close it might hit/crack the front cap while going down the road.

Have any of you ran into this clearance issue? I have no idea what is acceptable. It looks like I have about 7/8-1" clearance now and the hole spacing for the pinbox is on 1" centers. (If you had this issue did you enlarge the cutout in the front cap where the hitch mounts?)

Pix attached for your reference.
Attachment 329454
Attachment 329455

I have the same pin box and I have 3 bolts in the front holes and two in the back. Does this vary by trailer?

[chaps2018]

Originally Posted by corn18

I have the same pin box and I have 3 bolts in the front holes and two in the back. Does this vary by trailer?

Good. Question. I thought I looked at the installation instructions from Lippert and they did not specify. I will look again.

[chaps2018]

I wanted to follow up on this discussion for the next guy that has the question.

I tried raising the pin box but the opening in the front cap blocked me. I used an oscillating tool to cut about 3/4” of the fiberglass to enlarge the opening in the front. (Worked very good, I was able to do it solo by “walking” the pin box down the holes and let it hang down by the rear bolts).

So remounted the pin box in the new position and had about 1/4” or more clearance.

Here is the “rub”. When I hitch up the front cap hits the front of the pin box…

Anybody experience this before?

[Toby Dog]

My fiver frame also flexes a bit once the weight is off the landing legs. I've checked for broken welds or other issues and have found none.

[Freebird2020]

Not sure of the tire size you currently have on your 5th wheel but it says it may have come with a 235/85R 16F.

Goodyear endurance also has a ST255/85R16 which is a couple inches taller. Also has a higher payload rating.

That would raise the rear a bit and give you more capacity.

If they fit your wheels.

Good luck!

[Old-Biscuit]

There is FLEX in the front end of a 5vr due to pin box location/structure and the overhang side rails

Anymore then 3/8" flex between unhitch and hitched then the overhang structure/supports need to be visually inspected

YES...flex happens ---transfering of weight off front landing gear legs to the pin box----torque/leverage

A little more 'relief cutting' around front of pin box will take care of that but how is your Bed Rail Clearance now??

I prefer to tow level but 7" bed rail clearnace is better then coule inches nose high
**drivers rear tire wear
What air pressure are you using?
Rear axle tires do not take as much abuse as front axle tires do when backing and manuvering. Fronts have to twist/slide---rears not so much