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Old 12-13-2020, 07:14 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dlleno View Post
So nice edd505 thank you. I assume the install requires a 1/2" torque wrench and a suitable jack and jack stands that you would use to change a tire. I could do this...very attractive to just opt out of the factory option for 7k disks,
and upgrade to 8k axles with disks and a faster actuator for less money if you do the install yourself.

Did you swap out the hubs first and put the tires back on before finishing the hydraulics and all the rest?
Everything from the spindle out is replaced, the hubs in the disc install & mount the caliper. I sold the takeoff brake backing plates w/ brakes and drums on Craigslist for $300 took a few months until someone building a trailer wanted them.

Yes you will need a torque wrench, jack stand to hold the trailer weight, and other misc tools. If you don't have one I think many parts stores rent them/lone them with a deposit. I had been a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury mechanic way back when so I have a shop full of tools.
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Old 12-14-2020, 11:30 AM   #16
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nice. ok your pics cleared something else for me -- if one has a good 6-ton jack stand you can support the entire side of the trailer from a single CRE mount point (I assume this applies to the CRE 3000 as well). looks like you also have your landing gear in on the action for stability. I would probably not trust my old Harbor Freight 4 ton stands :-)

I was just curious how you supported the trailer while you were under it, installing the hydraulic lines. you have a single point of failure in the one jack stand; when I was installing after market springs and shocks on my 04 diesel truck I had redundant jack stands under each axle. probably overkill but given the consequences of something going awry I'm fine with over kill :-)
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Old 12-15-2020, 09:44 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Dlleno View Post
nice. ok your pics cleared something else for me -- if one has a good 6-ton jack stand you can support the entire side of the trailer from a single CRE mount point (I assume this applies to the CRE 3000 as well). looks like you also have your landing gear in on the action for stability. I would probably not trust my old Harbor Freight 4 ton stands :-)

I was just curious how you supported the trailer while you were under it, installing the hydraulic lines. you have a single point of failure in the one jack stand; when I was installing after market springs and shocks on my 04 diesel truck I had redundant jack stands under each axle. probably overkill but given the consequences of something going awry I'm fine with over kill :-)
I have the 6 point leveling system, put blocks under each leg to lift the 5W high enough to use a creeper under, memory says each leg is 8,000lb lift. Much nicer using the creeper on cement than rolling around in the dirt like in the old days. The jack stand was used to lift the tires off the ground by lowering the 5W just a bit. I left the stands there for just in case, but with the 6 point there was almost no chance of it coming down. Tip: if you do the install put the zerks to the outside, you won't have to crawl under to grease.

Harbor fright ......... had one collapse while I was laying in the dirt doing a clutch, saw it buckle and had just enough time to get out.
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Old 12-15-2020, 11:29 AM   #18
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Very nice job there. I was wondering???? If you go from 7K axles to 8K axles does it change your total weight capacity or cargo capacity? In other words can you safely carry more cargo?
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:01 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Dlleno View Post
nice. ok your pics cleared something else for me -- if one has a good 6-ton jack stand you can support the entire side of the trailer from a single CRE mount point (I assume this applies to the CRE 3000 as well). looks like you also have your landing gear in on the action for stability. I would probably not trust my old Harbor Freight 4 ton stands :-)

I was just curious how you supported the trailer while you were under it, installing the hydraulic lines. you have a single point of failure in the one jack stand; when I was installing after market springs and shocks on my 04 diesel truck I had redundant jack stands under each axle. probably overkill but given the consequences of something going awry I'm fine with over kill :-)


We also went with Performance Trailer Braking. Their installers used wooden blocking under the frame front and back to support the trailer. Running the hydraulic lines took the most time. They did a nice job.

FWIW, their installers are independent contractors. A husband/ wife team from Wisconsin did ours. They were extremely efficient.
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Old 12-15-2020, 12:39 PM   #20
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Very nice job there. I was wondering???? If you go from 7K axles to 8K axles does it change your total weight capacity or cargo capacity? In other words can you safely carry more cargo?
popcorn :-)

the short answer is maybe; it depends upon the definition of "safely carry more cargo".

fundamentally the reason people do this is to build in more margin/reliability into the running gear, not to carry more weight. changing the plated weight capacity of the trailer is something that only the mfg or a "modifier" can do, and you would need quite a permit and a lot of money to actually re-plate the trailer. But as a practical matter the question of carrying more weight is between you and the mfg.

but check your tires first -- and don't forget that a fifth wheel may not be evenly loaded, side to side, even when dry, so you can't just divide the scaled axle weight by 4 and assign that weight to each tire (on a tandem axle). Im aware of one example where the dry weight on the left/port/drivers side of a rear living fifthwheel was 800 pounds heavier than the right side - due to slides, refer, pantry, etc on the left. thats 400 lbs more for each tire on that side, probably explaining why tire temperatures run hotter on the left side, as some have reported.

Many fifth wheel trailers are plated for the sum of axle ratings and pin weight, but all kinds of happy conversations can occur on this topic. For example Alliance plates their 310RL at 15,000 lbs GVW even though the sum of the axle ratings and estimated pin weight is well over 16,000 lbs. They do that for marketing reasons, in part so that folks with SRW pick-ups can do the math and figure 3,000 lbs on the pin, approximately (20% of GVW). And they are using design margin as a marketing point as well -- that same trailer with 7,000 lbs axles is fitted with 2 x 4,000 lb springs.

So... you would need to take the question up with the mfg, to see if the tires, wheels, frame and springs and other components are up to the weight. if you strengthen one link of a chain, another link in that chain becomes the weakest.
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Old 12-16-2020, 04:09 AM   #21
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Thanks for the reply. Good information.
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Old 12-16-2020, 09:09 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Edd505 View Post
I have the 6 point leveling system, put blocks under each leg to lift the 5W high enough to use a creeper under, memory says each leg is 8,000lb lift. Much nicer using the creeper on cement than rolling around in the dirt like in the old days. The jack stand was used to lift the tires off the ground by lowering the 5W just a bit. I left the stands there for just in case, but with the 6 point there was almost no chance of it coming down. Tip: if you do the install put the zerks to the outside, you won't have to crawl under to grease.

Harbor fright ......... had one collapse while I was laying in the dirt doing a clutch, saw it buckle and had just enough time to get out.
Edd505
Something to consider. The mid and rear jacks are on the same circuit. If you loose a hose both jacks will collapse.
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Old 12-16-2020, 10:48 AM   #23
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one could always put a jack stand at each lift point to supplement the leveling system for extra margin. the leveling system is golden though -- why does Lippert say not to use it for changing tires? that must have come from their lawyers, not their engineers.

Edd505 the harbor freight flowchart is golden! esp 20 years ago when Craftsman was king. Today Id probably replace Craftsman with Milwaukee. A local Ford dealer service dept has converted all of their pneumatic tools to Milwaukee cordless
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Old 12-16-2020, 07:41 PM   #24
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Edd505
Something to consider. The mid and rear jacks are on the same circuit. If you loose a hose both jacks will collapse.
I did not know that. It would have to be a catastrophic failure and even with that I think there would be some time as it emptied. I move pretty quick when I need to and the creeper on cements almost like my kids skate board. Like I said above I had a cheap jack stand collapse working n dirt. I have enough stands I could have used several more and a shop that my oldest walked into and said dad we could put a lift in here ...... ( we know dad pays kid uses) I had the ST tires replaced before I took possession and the dealer tech used the levelers to lift it.

I think the Lippert's don't use is a CYA so if something happened they could say we told you not to. Remember Liebeck v. McDonald's Hot coffee spill, 2.8 million when SHE spilled her hot coffee. Guess they where supposed to tell her it wasn't cold. <<<

As for the added carrying weight my mind was if 7K was good 8K had to be better and for only $64 dollars. Two 7K axles = 14K just about what I weigh on the road, two 8K should give me a bit of fudge room.
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