Nothing is different about it. You will have to raise the front end a bit more when hooking up, but, the process is the same. Have the plate hit the hitch about half way up and let the TrailAir compress as it rides up and into the hitch.
The only thing to be a little wary of, until you get used to the hitch... Don't go by how the unit is riding, in regards to where the arrow meets the top half of the shock absorber, until you've gone some distance. The act of hooking up will cause an erroneous correlation until you've gone a few feet with the trailer and the system has settled onto the hitch. I think the first couple of weeks I used it, I was always having to adjust the air pressure; it would read too much when I hooked up, but, when I stopped a couple of hours later for a break, it was low... I learned to just hook up and go, stop at the entrance to the road (out of traffic naturally) and then look to see if it needed air or not. I have an air compressor with twin storage tanks in the front storage bay and can add air anytime. Turns out that I only need to adjust air with a big change in altitude or about once every 10 days or so to account for gradual leaks, probably at the valve; the rest of the time, by the time I get to the road out of the CG, it is reading just fine without any adjustments at all.
Whatever you do, don't ignore the grease fittings. You should give them one squirt (9 zerks) every thousand miles. I usually do them once a week. We go for 3 or 4 months at a time, several times a year, and Sunday is my check air, check propane, lube things that squeak, etc. day and I just added the zerks to that program. I have a rechargeable Lincoln grease gun that I use and it only takes about 2 minutes to get the gun out, squirt the zerks and put it away.
For the comfort to work ratio, it is a "reasonable" price to pay
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