Portable Generator while traveling

[Brad W]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

I have a 4KW generator inside its own enclosed box with its own 12 Gal gas fuel in the bed of my truck.

I have an additional 50A RV Receptacle on forward wall under overhang of 5th wheel Plus the OEM 50A Receptacle at rear of 5vr.
Originally I had both power lines going to a Auto Transfer Switch and then main line out to the RVs Main AC Panel.
ATS failed/warranty replacement failed right out of box---company wanted both so they could troubleshoot an ONGOING issue they were having.
I dumped the ATS and installed a 125A subpanel with Two 50A Double throw/douple pole circuit breakers.
Front 50A receptacle wires to one set of CBs
OEM Rear 50A receptacle wires to other set of CBs
CBs are 'mechanically interlocked' so that only one set can be closed at a time. So either front receptacle feeds Main or rear receptacle feeds Main.

I can plug in bed gen power cord into either receptacle....front while in transit, rear if needed while stationary OR I can plug trailer anaconda 50A power cord into either receptacle depending on location of power pedestal.

Have had this set up for 10 yrs
Have been able to reach power pedestals w/o need of extension cord
Have run gen while underway so 5vr is cooled down when we stop (potty/rest/lunch and CGs)
Have used gen when no AC hookups available, during power outages/low voltage issues in CGs and with the design of gen box exhaust is discharged straight up/baffled and is VERY Quiet.

This is NOT my truck BUT is set up same
Gen Box up front, 5vr hitch and then a Low Profile Aux Box at rear with a Louvered 5th wheel tailgate
Gen Box..........The Gen-Box generator toolbox models and features
Hitch..............16K W / 26K W | Husky Towing
Aux Box..........https://www.highwayproducts.com/5th-...rtner-tool-box


Used Marinco twist lock 50A receptacle (same as OEM) for forward installed and #6 wires
Used a 50A twist lock 50A plug on gen 30A cord with jumper so both legs are hot.


BEST Mod I have done!

That looks like a pretty slick setup. which size and if you don't mind, how much? (for the gen)

did you install the receptacle up front and run the wire and all that?

Being new to RV's in general, how easy is it to find a path to tie into existing electrical?

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Brad W

That looks like a pretty slick setup. which size and if you don't mind, how much? (for the gen)

did you install the receptacle up front and run the wire and all that?

Being new to RV's in general, how easy is it to find a path to tie into existing electrical?

I bought the 4KW 30A gen/box /installed in truck bed 10 yrs ago for $4000
I purchased and installed ALL wiring, transfer switches (auto & manual).
Forward receptacle and necessary wiring was easy....front compartment plus basement access just had to crawl inside and do the routing/connections
OEM wiring to MAIN Panel was a bit tougher...had to pull main ac panel, add junction box and route wire back to basement area then new wires from transfer back to main panel.
I'm a big guy so it was tight fit. Crawl in on belly then turn sideways and do connections. Had to remove a False wall in rear area of basement compartment to gain access to route wires to/from main panel.
All in all took roughly 2 days.......most of that was time stuck inside basement compartment

Originally I used an Auto transfer switch.....with OEM receptacle/wiring as default and swapping to forward receptacle/wiring when it was energized (mainly for gen hookup in bed of truck)
After 8 mos ATS failed in between no gen/no shore power......Parallax sent new warranty replacement and it wouldn't swap back/forth right out of box.
That is when I did the 'manual' transfer switch using the subpanel and CBs

Cost was roughly $450 (includes 1st ATS) and my 50 cent/hr labor

[mrgrayaz]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Cost was roughly $450 (includes 1st ATS) and my 50 cent/hr labor

Your cheap! I go through at least a beer an hour, if not two! - so I'm much more expensive at ~$4/hr....

[aknavy]

Nice mod - this is kind of what I was thinking. Yes, I want to be able to run the AC a couple hours before arriving - not liking the trailer being 100 degrees when we call it a night, and have no desire to have a power cord hanging off the side of the trailer. Also, while hitting rest stops or parking lots for an overnight, I just want to put the front legs down while hooked up, sleep, and get back on the road in the morning - another reason to keep the generators secured in the bed of the truck, plugged into the front of the trailer.

[theoldwizard]

Originally Posted by aknavy

However, when I return to my own fiver, I'll be taking a pair of inverter generators to overcome this.

Sounds like you might be buying a pair of Honda EU2000i's. Nice machines but $$$$

Depending on what loads you have, I suggest you check out an inverter generator in the 3500W range. Probably slightly louder, but much less $$$. Champion generators have been around for several years. I can't say I have heard many complaints.

[mrgrayaz]

The more I think about this, the more i like it.........It would be easy to snake wires up through the 5th wheel hitch and then mount a box say on the side of the actual hitch, or in the cap right there...

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by mrgrayaz

Your cheap! I go through at least a beer an hour, if not two! - so I'm much more expensive at ~$4/hr....

I contemplated a few cold ones while I was stuffed inside that basement compartment......but decided doing electrical was best done with clear head AND most of that beer would have run down my neck, chest etc due to the limited area. No way to properly drink beer unless I used a sippy-cup

[Brad W]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

I bought the 4KW 30A gen/box /installed in truck bed 10 yrs ago for $4000
I purchased and installed ALL wiring, transfer switches (auto & manual).
Forward receptacle and necessary wiring was easy....front compartment plus basement access just had to crawl inside and do the routing/connections
OEM wiring to MAIN Panel was a bit tougher...had to pull main ac panel, add junction box and route wire back to basement area then new wires from transfer back to main panel.
I'm a big guy so it was tight fit. Crawl in on belly then turn sideways and do connections. Had to remove a False wall in rear area of basement compartment to gain access to route wires to/from main panel.
All in all took roughly 2 days.......most of that was time stuck inside basement compartment

Originally I used an Auto transfer switch.....with OEM receptacle/wiring as default and swapping to forward receptacle/wiring when it was energized (mainly for gen hookup in bed of truck)
After 8 mos ATS failed in between no gen/no shore power......Parallax sent new warranty replacement and it wouldn't swap back/forth right out of box.
That is when I did the 'manual' transfer switch using the subpanel and CBs

Cost was roughly $450 (includes 1st ATS) and my 50 cent/hr labor

Thanks for the detail. It isn't a cheap solution but it is very clean and I like that.

Well done.

[cb1000rider]

So Carbon monoxide is heavier than air - so it should "sink". Think about it like a waterfall.

I've run Class-As and a Class-C with an external generator on a rear hitch rack. I haven't done it with a 5th wheel, but I would consider doing it, just rigging up the appropriate power cord correctly tied to the RV and then to the truck so it couldn't drag... Assuming I had to power it while the truck was in-motion.

[DonDee]

"CO is slightly lighter than air. However, studies have shown no significant difference in measurements based on what height CO detectors are mounted. Different manufacturers recommend different mounting locations, and you should always follow the manufacturers’ recommendation.
CO has a molar mass of 28.0, and air has an average molar mass of 28.8. The difference is so slight that CO is found to evenly distribute itself indoors. It is worth mentioning that CO indoors is usually generated from incomplete combustion (heat source) and therefore traveling in a warm air stream. Warm air is more*buoyant*and does rise. "

Mine is mid-way up a wall.

[Duoglide1]

Our 2012 HitchHiker has a 50amp receptacle on the front of the basement wall and is wired thru a transfer switch just as if we had an installed onboard generator. I have a Yamaha 3000ISEB in the bed and can use it by running a cord over the tailgate going down the road to precool the rig or if we stop to sight see or eat, the dog can be in air conditioning. I find some camp sites are easier to hook to the front instead of the rear. This was installed prior to us buying the trailer but I enjoy having it. I

[deardorff]

I run two champion 3400 watt inverter generators connected by a parallel kit which champion sells.

This gives me 6800 watts or 57 amps into the trailer.

a/c's pull max 17 amps each when running, resid frig maybe 2 amps.

If my 420 AH batteries have a good charge then I kill the converter/charger at the breaker panel.

The parallel kit has a 50-amp pedestal type of connector, so I use a shorter twist-lock 50 amp cable.

The twist-lock end plugs into a second power connection I installed on the front of the trailer above the compartment door and then wired that into my transfer switch (which was part of the generator prep package).

With this set up I can run two roof a/c's (both 15,000 btu) going down the road.

my generator model #100261 ($1000 each) is electric start with wireless remote start and stop, which lets me kill both generators before I pull in to refuel.

The exhaust if very hot so to prevent that hot exhaust from blowing on my tailgate, I installed two 12v 80W radiator cooling fans under each exhaust. Wired it with a cigarette plug male end which plugs directly into the cigarette port on the side of each generator.

This blows the exhaust up and disperses it such that even though its blow up into the bottom of the 5th wheel's overhang it won't get anything hot enough while sitting for 5 minutes before you start down the road again.

Once you do stop the generators, I still have to go back inside the trailer to restart the a/c's after I've restarted the generators.

Works great.

[deardorff]

I run two champion 3400 watt inverter generators connected by a parallel kit which champion sells.

This gives me 6800 watts or 57 amps into the trailer.

a/c's pull max 17 amps each when running, resid frig maybe 2 amps.

If my 420 AH batteries have a good charge then I kill the converter/charger at the breaker panel.

The parallel kit has a 50-amp pedestal type of connector, so I use a shorter twist-lock 50 amp cable.

The twist-lock end plugs into a second power connection I installed on the front of the trailer above the compartment door and then wired that into my transfer switch (which was part of the generator prep package).

With this set up I can run two roof a/c's (both 15,000 btu) going down the road.

my generator model #100261 ($1000 each) is electric start with wireless remote start and stop, which lets me kill both generators before I pull in to refuel.

The exhaust if very hot so to prevent that hot exhaust from blowing on my tailgate, I installed two 12v 80W radiator cooling fans under each exhaust. Wired it with a cigarette plug male end which plugs directly into the cigarette port on the side of each generator.

This blows the exhaust up and disperses it such that even though its blow up into the bottom of the 5th wheel's overhang it won't get anything hot enough while sitting for 5 minutes before you start down the road again.

Once you do stop the generators, I still have to go back inside the trailer to restart the a/c's after I've restarted the generators.

Works great.

[mudpuppy]

I just finished up installing a Onan 5500 LP in the front of my 5th wheel so I don't have to think about a portable.