I try to lower the front until the pads are about 1/2 way to the ground and then pull the pins. This will leave you some extra leg extension to get back on the hitch sometimes. I used to count the holes, just a habit for side to side leveling on the old rig. The corners all operate separately now. It helps to check the terrain and think about how it's setting now and how much it's going to tilt to get level and what's going to happen when you hitch back up. Spend a little time at home playing with the manual controls for the leg jacks.
If you run out of rear extension you can add blocks. Of course I have to go inside to reset them. Whatever the gap is between the pad and the ground, block that height plus a couple inches.
When the ground is not level or it's soft is when the real fun starts. We live in the rig for 5 months in the winter without moving the rig so it can settle a bit in the sand. We have the JT Strong Arm braces, love them. I sometimes have to tweak the leveling just once for the season. This is decided by when Momma says the grease is running to one side of the skillet.
I once had to get repairs on the tow vehicle in Chattanooga. A nephew came and towed the rig to his farm SW of Atlanta. Took a week for repairs and it rained. When I went to get it, the rig's tires were in 3" of water. The front jacks sank in the ground about 5" deep and wouldn't lift the rig high enough to hitch up. I ended up cribbing up over the bed and tailgate. I had the weight spread between the pin on the cribbing and the trailer on the bed rails. This let me raise the jacks out of the holes and place boards over the holes, then lift the trailer and hitch up. Of course it rained the whole time.
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