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MarkSaxton · 04-22-2024, 07:31 PM

My 5th wheel has 4 point leveling. This is my first rig with auto-leveling.

The dealer told me something that I can't make sense of.

1. Never extend the front leg 'drops' (the lower portion of the front jack that is held in place by a pin and when one removes the pin it drops freely from the upper jack) more than 11 holes, and ideally no more than 6 or 7 holes. In other words, try to keep the drop as short as possible.

2. Avoid putting a block underneath the front jacks. If the ground is soft, use as flat a block as possible.

The reasoning given was to avoid the rear jacks stroking out during auto-leveling or on the subsequent hook up to the tow vehicle.

I can't connect those dots. I can see that the two guidelines will tend to make the front jacks extend further and after leveling there will be more room for the rig to lower its front by retracting the front jacks, but I don't see how this avoids any scenario of the rear jacks not being able to reach the ground and limit out.

It was told to me in the vein of this being a commonly known rule of thumb for avoiding some bad scenario in leveling, but I can't get my head around it.

Can anyone help me understand this better, or if it sounds strange, perhaps I simply mis-understood, although I asked two different people and got the same answer.

Skip426 · 04-22-2024, 07:50 PM

What brand of auto leveling system on the RV ?

Did you get an leveling system operators manual with the 5er and does it contain the same guidelines ?

Old-Biscuit · 04-22-2024, 08:13 PM

Not dropping the front 'inner' legs allows for more stability ..... less slop between inner and outer driven legs

Blocks.....no reason not to use them to limit amount of travel needed (front and/or rear)
flat boards help spread the load so end of legs do not sink into the ground

MarkSaxton · 04-22-2024, 08:17 PM

Lippert Ground Control 3.0

I don't think that is in the manual, but I'll double check.

Neither of the folks giving me this advice owned the same rig I was buying, I don't think it was meant to be specific to my situation.

MtCamper · 04-22-2024, 08:55 PM

Keep the "drops" as short as possible to add more stability. Try not to use a tall pile of 2x lumber to make up a block, use a solid 6x6 or 8x8 if possible. Andersen makes a really good block that is kind of spendy, but very easy to use. I've used Andersen's for 6 years now, every time I set up. Both front and rear. If we're at the same place for several days, I'll often auto-level after the first day and it usually moves a bit. Absolutely no reason not to block the front legs as a matter of routine.

MarkSaxton · 04-23-2024, 05:18 AM

Thanks for the responses / help!

High Road Travelers · 04-23-2024, 10:44 PM

I don't understand what the dealer was telling you about the rear jacks. I have Ground Control 3.0 on mine and it auto levels the front first. The rear is never a problem and if you need to just put an extra block under them.
What camper do you have?
Thanks,

MarkSaxton · 04-24-2024, 06:32 AM

@High Road Travelers

Brinkley Z-3100. From my other thread, I believe you have the same.

Yah, I am chalking this up to I must have mis-understood. I will be using blocks under the front and probably snap pads on the rear.

High Road Travelers · 04-24-2024, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkSaxton

@High Road Travelers

Brinkley Z-3100. From my other thread, I believe you have the same.

Yah, I am chalking this up to I must have mis-understood. I will be using blocks under the front and probably snap pads on the rear.

I use the Anderson 'buckets' on the front and that seems to work very well.
Thanks,

runamuck · 04-25-2024, 04:07 PM

If I lower the front more than 8 or 9 holes, the wheels sometimes end up off the ground after leveling. the pads I use are 4"

DamonCamper · 04-25-2024, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkSaxton

Lippert Ground Control 3.0

I don't think that is in the manual, but I'll double check.

Neither of the folks giving me this advice owned the same rig I was buying, I don't think it was meant to be specific to my situation.

I have the same leveling system on our Jayco Eagle 319 5er.

I agree with the Anderson blocks, bit pricy but easy to use. They have magnets in the top so they grab you leveling foot, then drop the leg down, insert the pin then level. I use them on front and back jacks.

Now the auto level is another story. I've tried on Class C and A and found that the manual level is so much faster and easier. The auto level keeps trying to level and takes a NY minute or two and always seems to have the steps way too high. Just last weekend, it auto leveled and the passenger side tires were off the ground. Not happening. Used my phone app to see that the front was the low part so retracted the rear jacks and the front till looked level, lowered the rear till they were firm on the ground then used manual level using my app on the phone. Took about 2" on the front and it was level.
I think if you try to auto level, you will see that it just keeps trying till it gets it right but it is not the best for stability. The further the jacks are extended, the less stable your 5er will be.
Try it, you'll like it!!

SGhost · 05-11-2024, 08:12 AM

I think everything depends on just how "out of level" the site is. If you've got a situation where the site is really bad, Move. I had a situation where the site was bad, not side to side, but front to back. I was really worried that once I disconnected I would have a hell of a time getting her hitched back up. This is mainly prevalent at state/national parks where the sites aren't always maintained real weel. Personally, I don't need the headache and often times will choose another site. I have snap pads on all four corners and the only time I use blocks is for an extreme condition. I took a 4X4 and made a set of blocks to use if needed. Most of the time you just need to gauge how far off level you are and give the legs enough room to adjust. I don't think I've ever been than 4-6 holes max. Any more than that and you're going to have a rough time getting the rig up off the hitch or reconnected without blocks.

MarkSaxton · 05-12-2024, 07:39 AM

Quote:

I don't think I've ever been than 4-6 holes max. Any more than that and you're going to have a rough time getting the rig up off the hitch or reconnected without blocks.

Why is that? I have only leveled my rig once so far, I have almost no experience so this is all based on my mental picture of things.

It seems to me that the further I release the drops (the more holes I can see) the less I need to stroke out the jacks when leveling and the more stroke length I have remaining to lift the rig when I need to hitch up. Is my reasoning incorrect?

I am not considering the rear jacks at all in my thinking, so maybe the issue is some interaction with the front and the rear jacks on a sloped spot.

DamonCamper · 05-12-2024, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkSaxton

Why is that? I have only leveled my rig once so far, I have almost no experience so this is all based on my mental picture of things.

It seems to me that the further I release the drops (the more holes I can see) the less I need to stroke out the jacks when leveling and the more stroke length I have remaining to lift the rig when I need to hitch up. Is my reasoning incorrect?

I am not considering the rear jacks at all in my thinking, so maybe the issue is some interaction with the front and the rear jacks on a sloped spot.

I think what the above posts are trying to say is that the less you extend the legs the more stable your rig is. It allows less wobble in the legs.
That i unless you have jack stabilizers. Not sure what they are called, there is a 5er parked next to use that has them. Looks as they are built in to the RV.Makes sense, if you think about it. The longer the jacks are extended, they tend to "wobble" and bit and it can be felt when walking around.

Just my $0.02 worth.