Community Forums

Oldelevatorman · 09-09-2019, 12:59 AM

If you’re already at 13’5” don’t raise it higher! Are you sure that’s right, measured with the trailer level?

PulNSerenity · 09-09-2019, 05:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldelevatorman

If you’re already at 13’5” don’t raise it higher! Are you sure that’s right, measured with the trailer level?

That was a different member on here, not the OP.

Garyp4951 · 09-11-2019, 11:57 AM

I ran these 2" blocks for 3 years on my last Jayco with zero problems. I personally think it is less stress on the suspension than the correct track is on the hangers.

https://www.trailerblocks.com/produc...-4-wide-spring

Natebert · 09-11-2019, 03:07 PM

New axles, cross members, longer U-bolts, spring spacers, heavier duty springs, new shackles, and upgraded equalizers (disc brakes not shown) = ~ 2.5" lift for us.

Even after lowering the 5th wheel hitch, this helped our rig ride more level. (less tail dragging)

PulNSerenity · 09-11-2019, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garyp4951

I ran these 2" blocks for 3 years on my last Jayco with zero problems. I personally think it is less stress on the suspension than the correct track is on the hangers.

https://www.trailerblocks.com/produc...-4-wide-spring

This looks promising.

TB673 · 09-11-2019, 08:25 PM

If you have rear leaf springs, check into DROP SHACKLES or LOWERING SHACKLES. Some will drop the rear up to 2"

TB673 · 09-12-2019, 04:13 AM

Sorry if I misled anyone, drop or lowering shackles on the tow vehicle.

IC2 · 09-12-2019, 05:25 AM

Ours is the signature High Country Montana ..... and it was too low, so much so that the belly mounted spare dragged occasionally.

This is what I did. First of all, I installed new springs that had one more leaf (etrailer at ~35 bucks each). I then went to Metals Supermarket where I found a 3 foot length of 1x1.75 aluminum (~20 bucks). This was cut to the width of the spring plate, added a center bolt on one side and machined a relief for the existing spring center bolt on the other side.These items meant I needed new U-bolts (~$40). I also added wet bolts(~$85 Amazon) and a MORryde X Factor cross member in the center. Then, when all the parts were on hand, jacked the 5er up and spent about 8 hours doing the lift part of the mod. Since everything was apart, more time was spent lubing the bearings (actually replaced the Chinese junk with USA made timkens) and added disc brakes, but that's lots more dollars and time and not part of the question. Oh and I also cleaned the rust off the axles and painted them to look like new which, 3 years later, still look good

OK, finished the job. The 5er is about 2.5 or so inches higher, nothing drags, the 5er no longer wallows on road heaves, i.e. bridge approaches and departures, is still below 13'6" by a couple inches over the front a/c (and best of all stops much better).

As you can see, not a lot of dollars just to raise the trailer, and an '06 probably needs new springs, though it does take some time and a few tools that not all DIYers have, but even those tools wouldn't break the bank if you needed to buy a few.

I would NOT add longer hangers or shacles - that could induce tail wag and dangerous handling

PulNSerenity · 09-12-2019, 05:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TB673

Sorry if I misled anyone, drop or lowering shackles on the tow vehicle.

The newer (4th & 5th gen.) Ram 2500's have a 5 link coil system. So no shackle adjustments. A guy on another forum said he was getting custom coils made that were shorter. I am not really wanting to mess around with the trucks suspension. Besides he was stating it was going to be upwards to $ 3,000. Maybe if my truck was new & I knew I was going to be pulling this 5er for many years to come.

PulNSerenity · 09-12-2019, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IC2

Ours is the signature High Country Montana ..... and it was too low, so much so that the belly mounted spare dragged occasionally.

This is what I did. First of all, I installed new springs that had one more leaf (etrailer at ~35 bucks each). I then went to Metals Supermarket where I found a 3 foot length of 1x1.75 aluminum (~20 bucks). This was cut to the width of the spring plate, added a center bolt on one side and machined a relief for the existing spring center bolt on the other side.These items meant I needed new U-bolts (~$40). I also added wet bolts(~$85 Amazon) and a MORryde X Factor cross member in the center. Then, when all the parts were on hand, jacked the 5er up and spent about 8 hours doing the lift part of the mod. Since everything was apart, more time was spent lubing the bearings (actually replaced the Chinese junk with USA made timkens) and added disc brakes, but that's lots more dollars and time and not part of the question. Oh and I also cleaned the rust off the axles and painted them to look like new which, 3 years later, still look good

OK, finished the job. The 5er is about 2.5 or so inches higher, nothing drags, the 5er no longer wallows on road heaves, i.e. bridge approaches and departures, is still below 13'6" by a couple inches over the front a/c (and best of all stops much better).

As you can see, not a lot of dollars just to raise the trailer, and an '06 probably needs new springs, though it does take some time and a few tools that not all DIYers have, but even those tools wouldn't break the bank if you needed to buy a few.

I would NOT add longer hangers or shacles - that could induce tail wag and dangerous handling

Metal Supermarket! That's the competition!!!

I am a Plant Manager of a company that distributes metal just like Metal Super.

So some aluminum stock will not be a problem for me.

Little confused & can't picture the part of where you added a center bolt & relief for the other side.

grindstone01 · 09-12-2019, 06:45 AM

Just be aware that raising the trailer center of gravity by 2-3" may affect the handling. I tried that once with a flatbed trailer and it was unstable when loaded.

NewBlackDak · 09-12-2019, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PulNSerenity

The newer (4th & 5th gen.) Ram 2500's have a 5 link coil system. So no shackle adjustments. A guy on another forum said he was getting custom coils made that were shorter. I am not really wanting to mess around with the trucks suspension. Besides he was stating it was going to be upwards to $ 3,000. Maybe if my truck was new & I knew I was going to be pulling this 5er for many years to come.

Look up a bit. I got a quote for custom lowered springs(2” rear 1” front). Total would be about $1000 plus 2-4 hours labor if you can’t DIY.

IC2 · 09-12-2019, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PulNSerenity

Metal Supermarket! That's the competition!!!

I am a Plant Manager of a company that distributes metal just like Metal Super.

So some aluminum stock will not be a problem for me.

Little confused & can't picture the part of where you added a center bolt & relief for the other side.

I guess I can't send you to Metal Supermarket tho in my area, about the only show in town for misc. and odd pieces of metals.

OK, that spacer. Think of a conventional leaf spring. It has a bolt through the center of all the leaves to hold them together. The spacer has to replicate another leaf but 1" thick. The existing center bolt needs a recess to set in to fit tightly. The added bolt on the opposite side needs to fit in the spring plate to prevent the axle from moving forward or back. I tapped the apprpriate size hole and used a 3/8"x1/2" long socket head with Lock-Tite.

An alternate way would be to just buy longer center bolts and bolt everything as a unit but I wanted the flexibility to remove it easily if it didn't work out.

And like I said above, the handling on our 5er was much improved with the added height as 2-3 inches wasn't noticeable nor IMO, in most other towables.Other folks .... if they haven't done it ....

PulNSerenity · 09-13-2019, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IC2

I guess I can't send you to Metal Supermarket tho in my area, about the only show in town for misc. and odd pieces of metals.

OK, that spacer. Think of a conventional leaf spring. It has a bolt through the center of all the leaves to hold them together. The spacer has to replicate another leaf but 1" thick. The existing center bolt needs a recess to set in to fit tightly. The added bolt on the opposite side needs to fit in the spring plate to prevent the axle from moving forward or back. I tapped the apprpriate size hole and used a 3/8"x1/2" long socket head with Lock-Tite.

An alternate way would be to just buy longer center bolts and bolt everything as a unit but I wanted the flexibility to remove it easily if it didn't work out.

And like I said above, the handling on our 5er was much improved with the added height as 2-3 inches wasn't noticeable nor IMO, in most other towables.Other folks .... if they haven't done it ....

That is kind of where I thought you were going with it but wanted to make sure. I may try this on the off season. Thanks for the help.