Community Forums

manowell · 08-07-2018, 11:12 AM

Y'all have definitely made up my mind for me. I had no idea that the current draw was that low now, and it sounds like it will meet my needs easily, especially if I beef up solar some. I don't think we'd need to run the ice maker full time.

2 Stroker · 08-07-2018, 02:30 PM

I made the switch going on 6 years ago. My Samsung 197 has never been turned off, runs on the inverter (boon docking or going down the road). With all the Norcold lawsuits and being paid over $1000 over 4 years, it has paid for my switch and the wife loves it.
2 stroker

Ddubya · 08-08-2018, 12:20 PM

We have a Samsung residential and we really like it. That said, the first one went out on our first trip about 1000 miles from home. We purchased a small refrigerator and a small freezer at Lowes just to make it through the trip. We found out that a normal fridge repair company will not even look at a fridge if it is in the RV. After many discussions, Samsung refunded the purchase price and we bought another one from Lowes with extended warranty. Lowes delivered and installed it. We went with the same model so as to not have to do any modifications.

manowell · 08-08-2018, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ddubya

We have a Samsung residential and we really like it. That said, the first one went out on our first trip about 1000 miles from home. We purchased a small refrigerator and a small freezer at Lowes just to make it through the trip. We found out that a normal fridge repair company will not even look at a fridge if it is in the RV. After many discussions, Samsung refunded the purchase price and we bought another one from Lowes with extended warranty. Lowes delivered and installed it. We went with the same model so as to not have to do any modifications.

So, to your point, the residential refrigerators they use are just that, residential ones like you'd buy anywhere? No "RV hardening" or anything?

manowell · 08-08-2018, 05:23 PM

The inverter that I see installed in the pass-through compartment on the rigs I'm looking at -- is the output on that run only to the refrigerator power jack?

MtnTrek · 08-08-2018, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manowell

The inverter that I see installed in the pass-through compartment on the rigs I'm looking at -- is the output on that run only to the refrigerator power jack?

Typically 1000W yes.
An inverter sized to it's application is generally more efficient than a larger, one size fits all, that's not utilized properly.
Generally, they are also the sole intelligent battery charger too. Multi-stage charging with temperature compensation can prolong battery bank lifespan.

Sbrownstein · 08-08-2018, 05:53 PM

Generally, inverters that run residential refrigerators only power the refrigerator outlet. This is because they have automatic transfer switches that sense if there is AC available from the power panel and automatically switch over to shore or generator power when available. The National Electrical Code requires that refrigerators have their own, dedicated circuit and most transfer switches can only handle a single circuit. Many of us have added second transfer switches to power a breaker that powers some convenience outlets since most refrigerator inverters have extra power available most times.

Ddubya · 08-08-2018, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manowell

So, to your point, the residential refrigerators they use are just that, residential ones like you'd buy anywhere? No "RV hardening" or anything?

That is correct.

JDT · 08-08-2018, 07:03 PM

You've got a lot of good info here. Not much I can add other than we are on our 7th season with our Samsung fridge. We generally spend 3 to 4 months a year in it and have logged close to 50K miles over some very rough roads and so far no problems, knock on wood.

manowell · 08-08-2018, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sbrownstein

This is because they have automatic transfer switches that sense if there is AC available from the power panel and automatically switch over to shore or generator power when available.

Ah, so clever! And much more efficient.

Does a charge controller for a solar system also handle the smart charging for the battery(ies)? That seems to be about the only thing missing now. I've been reading (in passing) about these things for years, I'm about to get seriously educated.

manowell · 08-08-2018, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MtnTrek

Generally, they are also the sole intelligent battery charger too. Multi-stage charging with temperature compensation can prolong battery bank lifespan.

Hmmm. I need pictures. I'll be googling soon. I'm aware that the cheapo charging system for the coach battery in my current 15 year old rig is crap.

What's a typical "more than one coach battery" setup? 2x12v or 4x6v?

manowell · 08-08-2018, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ddubya

That is correct.

That's convenient! Just get one efficient enough, much more flexibility.

MtnTrek · 08-09-2018, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manowell

Ah, so clever! And much more efficient.
Does a charge controller for a solar system also handle the smart charging for the battery(ies)? That seems to be about the only thing missing now. I've been reading (in passing) about these things for years, I'm about to get seriously educated.

Yes, not in traditional bulk, absorb, float, it would throttle back as the battery banks SOC (voltage) increases. Better high capacity units will also have a remote temp probe to prevent overheating / damage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by manowell

Hmmm. I need pictures. I'll be googling soon. I'm aware that the cheapo charging system for the coach battery in my current 15 year old rig is crap.

Better ones have adjustable perimeters or charging profiles to accommodate different battery technologies, Lead Acid, AGM, (bulk, absorb, float. lithium would be more of a bulk w/ no float.

Quote:

Originally Posted by manowell

What's a typical "more than one coach battery" setup? 2x12v or 4x6v?

It can vary. multi 12V is nice as it offers redundancy one fails other(s) still operable.
Multi 6V are cost effective generally available from GC suppliers wholesale clubs pretty common. must be used in pairs. I'd guess 2x6v most typical in stock 5r's. One fails (kind of rare, but) other is dead in water.

Quote:

Originally Posted by manowell

That's convenient! Just get one efficient enough, much more flexibility.

A 3000W inverter only running 700W primarily has more overhead heat etc.
The transfer feature is an "AC pass -through" and is generally SS or seamless.

KHBama · 08-10-2018, 05:14 PM

As weekend warriors and RV vacationers, we are not nearly on the road as much as most of y’all. How real is this fire hazard for the Norcold and any other RV fridges? Seems like I’ve read a lot about the fire hazards over the past year. I’ve been thinking about getting an inverter and going with a small resedential fridge. What’s an rough estimate for installing an inverter? Thanks