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Old 12-15-2021, 06:53 PM   #15
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As suggested, hire a mobile welder, lift up on the end of the frame to get the cracks closed and weld them closed. Then grind the welds flush and cut and fit a splice plate for the area and weld it in place. While you are at this, check all other cutouts and attachment points as well as spring hangers and get them repaired and braced.

Sad to say there are a few problems here. One is the sorry state of road maintenance and then there is the cheap lightweight frames being supplied by Lippert in the name of light weight.

Ken
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Old 12-15-2021, 06:58 PM   #16
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welding

where the wood meets the top rail, I would with my fastool open a gap and slide a small sheet of copper between the wood and the steel, so that the top flange can be welded,

find a mobile welder or take to a fab shop that can tig weld... tig transfers far less heat to surrounding areas, and will not work harden the steel.

1. step one clean and grind to bare metal 5" to each side of the crack... if some other parts needed to be cut away I would (temporary)

once clean to bare metal i would then jack and level the unit... i might even try to go a couple degrees past on plane...

this is when i would clearance and insert the copper sheet,

I would then stitch weld the cracks both sides if i could but if you can only get to one... then you can only get to one

after welding the crack... i'd go back grind smooth and I would use a diamond patch (sq 5"x5" x 3/16") with points pointing up /down... I would have several (like 10) 5/8 holes drilled in this plate for rose bud welds... I would weld this on with maybe 3/4 long welds spaced around the patch until it was 100% welded.. and then go back and weld the rose buds in the holes... reattach/weld parts you had to move and you should be good to go... we build and repaired racecars for many years and I do not see how adding huge plates will transfer any more load that what i describe...

I would not let anyone near it that tells you... you don't need to tig weld it.
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Old 12-16-2021, 06:00 AM   #17
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Oscarvan, we have collision on the camper and we hit a deep pothole on that side on our way to our campground, apparently causing the frame to crack...
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Old 12-16-2021, 04:58 PM   #18
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Lot's of valuable information here, thanks everyone. Showed a local mobile welder some pics, said it wouldn't be a problem, but I'd have to get the floor raised off the beam so he could slip a metal sheet in there to protect the floor. He still wants to see it, of course.
Unfortunately I'm still waiting for Geico, first time for such poor communication from them! Every day I sit here is going to cost me! I still suspect they might total it...[emoji848]
Thanks for so many replies!
Did the wielder give you ball park cost. If it were me and I could pay out of pocket I would “Geter Done and seek reimbursement from insurance.
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Old 12-16-2021, 06:53 PM   #19
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Did the wielder give you ball park cost. If it were me and I could pay out of pocket I would “Geter Done and seek reimbursement from insurance.
That crack has been there for a LONG time... yes it might have opened it up when you hit a pothole, but that is NOT what cracked it... that should be less than $500 from any decent mobil welder... I believe you would be far cheaper to get it fixed and be on your way... a crack like that for me and many would be pull that up in front of the shop and 90 min later I'd be on my way... 45min if i had help... I doubt any adjuster would buy into that the "pothole" did it... but I'm usually wrong.
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Old 12-17-2021, 01:41 PM   #20
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There has been good info on the recommended repair, particularly from RVnAggie.

That said, this is a stress fracture and metal fatigue. I'd be spending a few minutes figuring out what really caused it. Is/was there a rear hitch on the trailer? Has anything been modified, heavy weights placed at the rear that could cause stress on an under-speced frame?

I measured the frame on ours this summer. It's a 10" I-beam, 3/16" thick. This is on a 29' 5th wheel, which measures more like 31'10" end to end. If the frame is thinner, less than 10" and on a longer trailer you have an accident waiting to happen.

Damage could also simply be a poor design and too weak a frame. Just be sure whatever caused it is fixed.
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Old 01-06-2022, 08:44 PM   #21
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UPDATE:
Thank you all for the info and advice! Two different welders said they could weld it up but it was in a bad place, no guarantees. Kinda got us worried.
Insurance totalled it out. Salvage picked it up. U-Haul cargo trailer to take belongings with us to Florida. Storage at U-Haul in Florida. Hotels, now timeshare weeks. Now searching for something better, hopefully used. Inspected six so far, all had hidden serious problems. Glad we know what to look for, wish sellers would just be honest??
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Old 01-06-2022, 08:54 PM   #22
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Thanks for the Update!
much appreciate when OP reports back with resolution

Ins Totaled.....think that was best remedy
Good hunting for next RV
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Old 01-06-2022, 09:05 PM   #23
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Oscarvan, we have collision on the camper and we hit a deep pothole on that side on our way to our campground, apparently causing the frame to crack...
I agree with the others. This is an old crack. IMO, the crack is an old one; the pothole probably just opened it up wider.

Lots of good solutions.

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Old 01-06-2022, 09:23 PM   #24
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Thanks for sharing the outcome. Sure glad your insurance provider took care of you.

Best wishes on the search and purchase of the next rig.
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Old 01-10-2022, 11:26 AM   #25
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Thanks for sharing the outcome. Sure glad your insurance provider took care of you.

Best wishes on the search and purchase of the next rig.
Prepare for sticker shock......
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Old 01-10-2022, 11:36 AM   #26
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UPDATE:
Thank you all for the info and advice! Two different welders said they could weld it up but it was in a bad place, no guarantees. Kinda got us worried.
Insurance totalled it out. Salvage picked it up. U-Haul cargo trailer to take belongings with us to Florida. Storage at U-Haul in Florida. Hotels, now timeshare weeks. Now searching for something better, hopefully used. Inspected six so far, all had hidden serious problems. Glad we know what to look for, wish sellers would just be honest??
I find it very interesting that it was totaled out. Be willing to bet that the ins. co. will fix it and sell it for 5-10x what the repair costs. I've seen some absolute =junk= sell for stupid money the past year. Hope they gave you a fair price, given the market for used rigs.

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