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Old 04-24-2022, 07:37 PM   #1
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Should new brakes need adjusted?

First real tow with the trailer this weekend. I had my brake controller (prodigy p2) maxed out and could barely feel the trailer brakes. Manually moving slider over on controller was about the same. Controller is 12 years old so I'm trying to see if I need to troubleshoot the controller side first or if it's just out of adjustment brakes. My gut says probably just need to adjust the brakes but wasn't sure since it's brand new.....seems like they would've been adjusted when installed.
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:47 PM   #2
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Not only do you need to manually adjust new brakes you also need to 'burnish' them (shoes to drum/magnet to drum face)

See pg 13 for manual adjustment
See pg 11 for burnishing procedure

http://www.dexterpartsonline.com/fil...e%20Manual.pdf
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:51 PM   #3
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Thank you....I kinda thought they might need to be adjusted. I'll get on that this week.
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Old 04-25-2022, 08:35 AM   #4
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Dittos on the break-in procedures for new brakes. I find my brakes are considerably more effective once they warm a bit. I wonder if they are working when I depart and have to turn the gain down when I arrive. I'm guessing things expand and reduce clearances.
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Old 04-25-2022, 09:14 AM   #5
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AS noted, you need to wear or burnish the brakes and they will probably need adjusting. Most of the newer trailers are being supplied with forward self-adjusting brakes.

You never said what trailer you have and if it has electric-drum brakes or electric over hydraulic disk brakes.

If you have disk brakes, it may take a new brake controller.

Ken
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Old 04-25-2022, 07:47 PM   #6
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AS noted, you need to wear or burnish the brakes and they will probably need adjusting. Most of the newer trailers are being supplied with forward self-adjusting brakes.

You never said what trailer you have and if it has electric-drum brakes or electric over hydraulic disk brakes.

If you have disk brakes, it may take a new brake controller.

Ken
2022 sierra 3660 so electric drum. Was under the weather a bit today so didn't get to them today. Hopefully feel better tomorrow and can adjust them.
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Old 04-26-2022, 10:11 AM   #7
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Adjusted those brakes today. They were quite a bit out. Pulled camper forward to test and didn't really notice much difference. Didn't have time to get it out on the road to test them so that was only pulling forward 15-20 feet. Manual lever all the way though wouldn't hold it. I could feel some brake being applied but not near what it should be. Not sure if getting it on the road would change things. I know in the past I've had to adjust once on the road but usually just a little bit. That prodigy maxed out should be holding the truck back at idle. Going to try and test voltage coming from controller next.
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Old 04-26-2022, 11:14 AM   #8
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Try unplugging the breakaway switch and see if they hold when attempting to pull forward. They should, and if they do then troubleshoot the brake controller next.
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Old 04-26-2022, 02:40 PM   #9
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Try unplugging the breakaway switch and see if they hold when attempting to pull forward. They should, and if they do then troubleshoot the brake controller next.
DONT have the truck plugged in, this can cause a less expensive brake controller to fail!

DONT leave the break away system activated for more then a minute , your magnets may start to smoke!
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Old 04-28-2022, 12:07 PM   #10
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Did a little more digging into trailer brakes. There's definitely something going on with them. Adjusted them but still don't get much brake from them. P2 at its highest setting will almost idle through them on a tug test. Pulled break away switch and same thing....not much brake there. Next place to look?
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Old 04-28-2022, 12:23 PM   #11
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Did a little more digging into trailer brakes. There's definitely something going on with them. Adjusted them but still don't get much brake from them. P2 at its highest setting will almost idle through them on a tug test. Pulled break away switch and same thing....not much brake there. Next place to look?
When you adjusted the brakes>
Rotated star wheel until you could not turn tire
Backed off on star wheel until tire could turn with slight drag of brakes shoes



Check the brake wire connectors at each wheel position
OEM connections are usually junk

With brake controller manual lever ON should have 12VDC +/- at each wheel position and each magnet should pull roughly 3A with full voltage

**wires run inside axle tubes can be chaffed
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Old 04-28-2022, 07:48 PM   #12
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If the controller is working properly disc brakes work right away . No breaking in burnishing shoes .
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Old 04-29-2022, 07:16 AM   #13
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I think my next step is going to be to tow it up and down the road out here and burnish the pads and readjust and see where it's at. After that I'll start looking at each wheel. I know there's good voltage from the truck to the camper. My thinking is if those pads were far enough out from the drum(which they were) they're still basically brand new. You figure the camper was towed from Indiana to Ohio and then I took it on a 30 mile trip but if the pads weren't making much contact they didn't seat in.
That's my working theory at the moment. My gut tells me I'll be taking wheels apart next haha. I just think seated or not 12v to the magnet should give enough brake I couldn't idle through it such as a tug test.
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Old 04-29-2022, 11:35 AM   #14
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Depends on how well they were adjusted........and if each wheel position is receiving 12VDC from controller


Difficult to 'burnish' if not working
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