Slide-out Issue

[r___r]

New 5th-wheel trailer to me. 2006 Keystone Sydney Outback M-28 FRLS.
Sparing the long story, I'll get to the point.

I tried to extend the slide-out out and when pushing the switch, a clicking sound happens and slide-out does not move.
I had my wife push the button while I was under the slide-out. The all-thread bolt that extends the slide-out does not rotate.
I opened the access location to the motor and watched the motor while my wife pushed the button.

https://youtu.be/iobkpHBSUOs

From the motor, I removed the cotter-pin and end-bolt/cap. I removed the screw. I attempted to wiggle the motor away from where it's mounted, but, I didn't want to break something. I stopped so I could get more information before I continue disassembly.

I have one deep-cycle battery (Interstate 27DC Marine/RV) hooked up. I tried operating the slide-out with the shore power cord hooked up to an extension cord to the garage power outlet, about 50'from the trailer. And I tried having the truck hooked up through the 7-pin idling, with shore power disconnected. Both ways still same result.

Do I need another battery to help with amperage draw?
Is it just the motor part in the video that needs to be replaced? Or, is it looking like I will have to replace the mechanism, shaft and all?

Any thoughts or advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich

[YC1]

Can't help with the disassembly but have you put a voltmeter across the wires right at the motor while activating the switch.

I understand all the efforts to make sure you have good power but that does not eliminate bad connections somewhere along the line.

Those motors take a tremendous draw to operate so any loose connection will cause all kinds of issues.

IF you take a measurement across the motor while toggling the switch and the voltage shows low, 8-10 volts for example. Then you need to find a good ground for the meter for the next test.

Once you have a good ground for the meter try the test again but measure both of the battery wires. You should have close to zero volts on one wire and then your battery voltage on the other. This test will tell you if you have a bad ground.

[r___r]

I bought and installed 2-6v batteries after work today and installed them in place of the 12v battery.

Appreciate the advice. I'll spend some time this weekend checking voltage and connections. I'll follow up with findings.

[r___r]

I checked wires for fraying, kinks, connections were not loose, crimps and plug terminations were okay.

I turned the worm-drive bolt cap with a ratchet and 5/8" socket several turns.




I saw the slide had extended out about few inches. I had my wife bump the slide-out control switch both ways while I tested voltage.

I was able to ID hot wires for extend (black to red) and retract (white to black). Voltage showed 12.8v both directions, but I only got a picture of the voltage measurement on extend.




The bottom section of the slide-out would extend out and the top section would stay in place, so as my wife push the extend button, I pushed the top section of the slide-out out until the whole slide-out moved on it's own.

Was able to get the slide-out extended all the way. It looks dirty and dry under the slide-out. I'll clean off and lube all the mechanical parts and operate the control switch more to see if it will work on it's own. If it turns out that this motor continues to work, I'll use it. I'll look into purchasing another motor. If anything, I'll have an extra when it is time to replace.

Thanks YC1 for your input.

Rich

[YC1]

IF that voltage is showing while trying to activate the motor you have an issue still.

I would not condemn the motor just yet and keeping an expensive spare would not be my idea of money well spent.

Showing 12.8 indicates you have decent battery voltage but it should go lower when under load.

Were/are you connected to shoreline while doing this test?

If you can repeat the test but this time you need to ground your voltmeter negative lead somewhere there is a good ground. The ground hole of an outlet will work and you can use an extension cord if needed to get it closer to your meter.

Then take measurements on all of the wires with no load and then with then with the switch being activated.

There is probably some relays doing the switching and it would be easy for them to be acting up.

If/when you got the motor to actually run it sounds like it was wimping along and not really pulling its load.

A couple more pictures of the wires coming out of the motor would help.

IF there are only two wires going into the motor it would be easy enough to disconnect them and supply your own power via some booster cables. That can be tricky and you would have to be very careful of course but it would completely eliminate any questions about the motor being bad or not.

[r___r]

I spent some time today cleaning off the dirt, dust, and dried gunk around the slide mechanical parts and rubber seals.
Next, I'll get some RV spray lube, spray everything down and operate the slide-out to test if the motor continues to work or stalls.


@YC1

I did not hook up the voltmeter across the 2 wires (black/red and white/black) going to motor, as those would be hot during operation. Neither is a neutral.

The black probe of the voltmeter was clipped to the trailer chassis, only. The red probe was clipped to either the black/red wire or white/black wire, during testing.

The 12.8v only showed once the extend or retract button were engaged. The voltmeter showed 0 when the control button was at rest (no load)

Since it is a new trailer to me, I will be in for a hunt searching for the relays.

The only 2 wires coming from the motor is a red wire and a black wire. These are crimp connected to the black and white wire, respectively.

Yes, once the motor was able to extend the slide-out on it's own, the motor did operate slow and did sound weak.

The trailer is hooked up to shore power. When I installed the 2-6v batteries and after hooking up the shore power, I did check voltage across the batteries in series. Charging voltage showed 14.1v.

When the control buttons were engaged, voltage drop shown by the voltmeter is 1.3v loss.

So, is there still an issue with voltage showing 12.8v when buttons are engaged? Appreciate if you could elaborate if it is still an issue.

Rich

[YC1]

I would not concern myself with any relays just yet.

Sounds like you are on the right track with the voltage measurements.

However, you need to measure the voltage on each of the wires from the motor when you are trying to make it run in our out.

What I'm looking for is a bad ground path at this time. Your 12.8 volts is very good but if there is any voltage on the other wire at the same time you have issues.

As for running the slide manually, can you use a drill and socket to run the mechanism?

To totally satisfy yourself that the motor may be bad grab a 12 volt battery and disconnect the two wires from the motor and use the battery to run it. If it still runs slow you have nailed it. Assuming the mechanics of the rest of the slide is functioning.

[LAKnox]

I'd be very wary of lubing the slide mechanism. My old Komfort, with a rack and pinion system, =specifically= said not to lube the rack and pinion, only to keep it clean. In 13 years, I never had an issue with the slide (14' long) that wasn't battery related. If you =do= decide to lube things, then use a "dry" lube so that it won't attract dirt. I know there are some spray-on graphite lubes that use a volatile carrier for the graphite, but I've never used them.

Lyle

[r___r]

@YC
Yes I did measure voltage on each of the wires from the motor.

Voltmeter red lead alligator clipped to the red/black crimped wire (extend), while the voltmeter black lead was alligator clipped to the trailer chassis (12.8v when control button engaged; 0v while control button at rest or when pushing retract button).

Voltmeter red lead alligator clipped to the black/white crimped wire (retract), while the volteter black lead was alligator clipped to the trailer chassis (12.8v when control button engaged; 0v while control button at rest or when pushing extend button).

I did think about using a drill and socket to run the slide out manually, but, when I used the ratchet and saw the slide moved a few inches out, I moved to the inside of the trailer and tried the control switch. The control switch worked, so I abandoned the ratchet. When I used the control switch and saw the bottom of the slide moving out and not the top, my thoughts shifted to making sure the top section would move out.

I would definitely use the cordless drill if the slide motor wasn't working and I had to move the slide in or out.

Because the voltage is showing 12.8v, during extend and retract, while the batteries are hooked up where they are mounted in the trailer, I am okay with that.

I bought slide out lube spray and rubber seals lube spray yesterday. I'll apply it once I get a chance. Then I will put the slide-out through it's motions to observe the slide out and motor operation results.



@Lyle
Thank you for your input, I will just lube the rotating parts of the slide. I did scrape off the rails a lot of dried-up gunk that I suspect is grime on old grease.


Rich

[YC1]

I have had one of my slides stick before. Silicon spray works well on my seals. I think I remember having to push on one of the slides in the past to get it going.

As you suggest, if the thing runs normal now in and out you have a good voltage reading for future issues and have not had to spend a bunch on a motor.

It would be interesting to see what the current is while engaged.

Looks like you have it solved.

[r___r]

Yes, I do need to get a clamp-on ammeter to check current, and not just for the RV.
Thanks for your input, YC. Asking the questions, I may have not thought of checking.

Appreciate it!

Rich

[r___r]

Lubed the slide mechanism and all the rubber seals for the slide-out. The slide is working good now and drive motor is not stopping and clicking during extend process. Only at the end of travel, each way. No gears or motor replacement needed. Thanks to you all for your info and recommendations.
There is a vibration rattling either during extend and retract operation, sometimes. I don't know. I may have to open up the under-belly material to observe the slide mechanism during operation if it continues.

The Previous Owner had used this RV to live in during the build of their house, so the slide-out had been extended out the whole time. When I went through cleaning and conditioning the rubber seals, I noticed the rubber seals are almost flat instead of round. It seems to me that the rubber seals should be round. What do y'all think about that?

I, also, noticed once the slide-out was retracted all the way in, the forward section underneath had about 3/8" gap between the chassis rubber seal and the slide metal frame. It seems to me that the rubber seal should be making contact with the metal for a weather-tight seal. Attached is a picture.



Does it look like the rubber just needs to be replaced (the rear chassis rubber seals against the slide metal frame); or, does the forward slide mechanism need to be adjusted to make this seal?
Also, the slide exterior siding front, bottom section, does not rest completely flush to the exterior wall of the trailer.I did not take a measurement, but, it's about the same distance as the picture above.
During slide operation, I notice the front section does seem to lag behind the rear section, a little. The drive motor is attached to the rear slide section and the front is engaged by the bar connection between the front and rear sections.