Community Forums

BuzzWolfAR · 08-30-2017, 06:06 PM

When I get back from a trip and put the unit in its garage, I always use auto level. Now that it is close to winter, was wondering if you level, of just leave the landing gear down only.

Second unrelated question I'm going to use compressed air 30 psi to blow out the water lines from the city water connection. Logic says that the air pressure should empty my water heater, I'll open the valve to check, but am I correct on that assumption?

Last year, with another unit, I used antifreeze in the lines, but I really see no value in doing that, especially if I'm going to using the unit a couple times during the winter.

diesel2121 · 08-30-2017, 06:10 PM

I have heard of people that have blown out line still freezing.i would honestly wouldn't chance it and just put in antifreeze.i don't level mine in storage to keep the legs covered from rusting.

Cypressloser · 08-30-2017, 06:24 PM

Fulltimers put all jacks down at all times, that answers your 1st question. Hydraulic rams are chrome plated and should never rust.
I would definitely pull the anode rod from the hot water tank if it's a Suburban and flush the c..p out of it. Blowing air through the system at low pressure is being done by a lot of folks, just be sure to put a cup full antifreeze in all the p-traps and the toilet bowl, make sure there is no water in the pump, open the low point drains and leave all taps open, don't forget the outside shower and black tank flush.
But, how much is a jug or 2 of plumbing antifreeze plus your trailer is set up to make winterizing a breeze. You can actually catch some of the AF when you dewinterize and reuse it by using air instead of water to push it out of the plumbing.

bddadles · 08-30-2017, 07:04 PM

When I had to store my 5er in MI. I just put down the front jacks. I pulled the anode rod from the water heater. Throw the bypass valves and then use air to blow out the lines. The first time I did this the water pump froze. After that I blew the lines and then used anti freeze. 2 gallons of antifreeze is much cheaper than a new pump. Just my opinion but don't go cheap. Coming back to bite you just once is not worth it. Good luck I became a full timer and go to TX when it gets cold.

Brad

BuzzWolfAR · 08-31-2017, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bddadles

When I had to store my 5er in MI. I just put down the front jacks. I pulled the anode rod from the water heater. Throw the bypass valves and then use air to blow out the lines. The first time I did this the water pump froze. After that I blew the lines and then used anti freeze. 2 gallons of antifreeze is much cheaper than a new pump. Just my opinion but don't go cheap. Coming back to bite you just once is not worth it. Good luck I became a full timer and go to TX when it gets cold.

Brad

I guess you are right. Was concerned that the valves would be confusing, but looked at it today. Pretty simple. Guess I'll get the pink stuff. LOL

Hurk · 08-31-2017, 08:07 PM

In my previous rv (2) I used air to flush out the water and never had a problem. Antifreeze in traps and toilet and holding tanks. Now I have a 5er with a washer/dryer I wonder if air will flush it? I guess I'll open the water lines and the air should work but what about the water pump in the washer ( is there one) if there is one how would I blow the water out? Any thoughts?

**NLOVNIT** · 08-31-2017, 10:32 PM

When we had our 5-r, we stored with jacks down just enough to take some of the weight off the tires. For the cheap price of a few gallons of antifreeze, why take the chance?

As to the prior question about the washer, you'll be able to blow the water out of the incoming lines, but air won't blow the water out of the pump or the outgoing lines. You will have to get antifreeze in the pump by putting a couple cups of the pink stuff in the drum then set it on spin/drain to carry that stuff through the outgoing lines.

Lori-

bddadles · 09-01-2017, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuzzWolfAR

I guess you are right. Was concerned that the valves would be confusing, but looked at it today. Pretty simple. Guess I'll get the pink stuff. LOL

Just be sure to flip the valves because there is no need to put anti freeze in the water heater.

I never thought about a washer because I never had one before full timing. I actually have no idea what to do for that. Better call service and ask.

Brad

memtb · 09-01-2017, 07:24 PM

We bypass and drain water heater. Blow out lines and open low point drains. Pump RV antifreeze into system, run each faucet and toilet until you see pink. This will also assure that the traps get the antifreeze. Also start washing machine until pink stuff is in machine, then go to spin cycle to pump the antifreeze out. Doing this will get the antifreeze into the pump. It's not necessary to allow machine to go full cycle (you would use a lot of antifreeze), just until you get some pink into the tub. Though, when you do all of this, you will have used several gallons of antifreeze.

rarebear.nm · 09-03-2017, 03:08 PM

We live in Santa Fe, NM and winters can get cold, negative sometimes. Since we use the RV several times in the freezing season, Oct. to mid May, I winterize and de-winterize multiple times a year.

I open the low level drains to drain what ever I can and fill all lines and p-traps with RV antifreeze as others have explained above. IMO there are too many places blowing air may not get the job done very well. In low spots compressed air will leave water in the lowest areas as soon as a little air displaces the uppermost trapped water in a low spot.

As for the water heater, I switch the bypass valves and drain the tank from the bottom drain plug. I don't have a washing machine or dishwasher and can't directly comment on those.

Why risk water system damage to save a few minutes of effort and a few gallons of the pink stuff?

IC2 · 09-03-2017, 05:00 PM

I blow the system out though do use a bit more pressure - 45psig then use the pink stuff. We don't have a washer but the lines are there. In my case, I open the valves and allow the lines to drain back then blow them out as well. I found that those washer water lines deadhead and will trap some water if not specifically drained and blown out. I also found that the little Porter Cable pancake compressor wont supply enough pressure at full volume to do a good job. I hooked up the big one and was surprised how much water came out after 10 minutes of that small compressor huffing and puffing.