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Old 01-01-2018, 01:48 PM   #1
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Thawing frozen lines

Good day all... need some advice on thawing 2017 four season open range RV lines. The lines are currently frozen. The master bath/ refrigerator is working properly, which is in the front of the RV, but the kitchen sink and rear half bath lines are not working. Unable to get directly to the lines. Any advice is appreciated.

Paula
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:51 PM   #2
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Open the cabinet doors to allow heat in.
Take your best guess on where the frozen spot is and put a hair drying on that spot to heat the wall or floor, and hopefully the lines.
And/or put a heat lamp in the basement below the frozen spot.
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:55 PM   #3
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We've opened the doors and put heaters in the rooms. Unfortunately we cannot get to the lines underneath without taking the bottom apart. Thanks for the response. We will keep trying the heaters.
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:00 PM   #4
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If you have any removeable panels in the toe-kick area under the cabinets, stove, shower pan etc. remove those as well so heat will get to those areas. When you figure out which lines are the problem you can get some heat tape from the hardware store and wrap them. Use it on the drain lines as well.
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:09 PM   #5
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Thank you... we are starting to get some water now... it's going to take some time but it looks like just need time...our neighbors in our campground also mentioned to keep the sinks dripping...
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Old 01-01-2018, 05:17 PM   #6
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Keeping the faucets dripping definitely works.
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Old 01-02-2018, 02:06 AM   #7
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Read the boondocking section. There was a post there where a guy runs a circulation pump like home plumbing systems use in Phoenix and Vegas. He circulates water from the water heater through all the lines and back to the water tank. Only runs it for a couple minutes an hour. His install is semi permanent but you could make it hidden and permanent.
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Old 01-02-2018, 12:47 PM   #8
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Keeping the faucets dripping definitely works.
Just make sure you keep the dump valves open if you leave a tap dripping - and hope the slinky doesn't completely ice up.

I would also question the efficacy of a dripping tap because there are lots of legs off the main line inside and down in the basement and they may still freeze.
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:57 PM   #9
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Just make sure you keep the dump valves open if you leave a tap dripping - and hope the slinky doesn't completely ice up.

We tried this. It didnít work. Our sewer lines froze solid all the way to the tank valves. Now that we have them thawed the valves stay closed until the tanks are full then we dump and close the valves. We can do this, I guess, because we have heated tanks and decent heat in the basement, now.
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Old 01-04-2018, 07:00 PM   #10
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Thanks all...DH decided to buy a ceramic heater to add to the heated basement and that has seemed to help keep the lines clear.
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Old 01-13-2018, 03:31 PM   #11
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Curious if you had the furnace going when this happened? How cold was it outside and any wind? I was just looking at the specs of your new 5th wheel and with the Heated & Enclosed Underbelly w/4" duct -zero degree tested at 5 hours seems strange your lines froze some.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:15 PM   #12
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Thanks all...DH decided to buy a ceramic heater to add to the heated basement and that has seemed to help keep the lines clear.

Check with your manufacturer to determine if your normal heating system (I am assuming ducted forced air propane heating) has ducting for the holding tanks.

Some people, in trying to conserve propane, use electric space heaters, and in doing so, eliminate the heated air normally directed to the holding tanks and lines.

If you opt to just use electric heaters, keep the fan for your FA heater running continuously (on low speed) to send warm air to the tanks and lines.
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:12 AM   #13
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FYI, normally the tank heater is only on the fresh water tank unless someone added them under the black and gray. If they did they should be on separate switches so you can turn off ones under empty tanks.
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