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L0veless · 07-09-2018, 02:05 PM

ok I'm just finishing up my disc brake upgrade

and have a rather simple question. being old school hotrodder I always tightened the axle nut slowly rotating the hub and torqueing to 20ft lbs then backing off quarter turn.
watching many videos of this brake upgrade seem everyone just spun the hub slightly tightening using hands or Channelocks then baking off quarter to half turn. reason for my concern was when taking the old hubs off one nut was loose , one was hand tight, one I had to gently use Channelocks on and one was real tight. all 4 were different.
this is a 2016 new rig it now has around 10,000 miles. what or how do you guys tighten the bearings?

oh yes and being old school I forgot "universal" means it doesn't fit anything talking about the hose kit

thank you

buc1908 · 07-09-2018, 02:45 PM

You need to know the torque specification for that stud .Also the material of the rim.

BFlinn181 · 07-09-2018, 02:56 PM

After assembling the bearings, washer, and axle nut, I usually tighten slowly as spinning the wheel to get everything centered and seated. I then back off the nut until it can easily be locked with a cotter key or retainer. I've never used a torque wrench, just feel. You don't want it too tight or too loose.

L0veless · 07-09-2018, 03:27 PM

thank you for the input but I've always used a torque wrench to seat the bearings then back off and finger tight(not rotating hubs) but then again that was hotrods. its been relatively easy project just want to make sure putting things together its right. was confused by the big difference when removing the hubs and then seeing the videos was concerning.

Old-Biscuit · 07-09-2018, 03:41 PM

Depends on which BRAND/Type hub/bearing assembly is

Dexter standard. Dexter Nev-R-Lube, ALKO etc
Some are 50# while rotating, some are 100# some are 125# and use double nuts

Look up your brand/type

L0veless · 07-09-2018, 03:59 PM

Dexter 7000 lb axles. EZE lube, but now were in the same ball park. so there is a spec on torqueing then backing off, thank you

rarebear.nm · 07-09-2018, 08:22 PM

Loveless

Please post those specs so others with same setup will them. It helps any others that way. Some would like to see the web reference. Thanks.

Old-Biscuit · 07-09-2018, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

Loveless

Please post those specs so others with same setup will them. It helps any others that way. Some would like to see the web reference. Thanks.

Dexter Axle/Hub
See pg 56
https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa....pdf?sfvrsn=38

L0veless · 07-10-2018, 02:00 PM

rotors are on and feeling great about the way the bearing set 50 lb felt pretty good.

thanks Old biscuit the info was great. would have finished today but couple trip to parts store, one seal was crushed in shipping then one caliper had a fitting sheared off and then a bent up bearing cage. tomorrow finish calipers, add fluid ,bleed line mount tires and we should be good to go.

bddadles · 07-11-2018, 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buc1908

You need to know the torque specification for that stud .Also the material of the rim.

I believe you are speaking of the lug nuts and not the axle nut.

chboone · 07-11-2018, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

After assembling the bearings, washer, and axle nut, I usually tighten slowly as spinning the wheel to get everything centered and seated. I then back off the nut until it can easily be locked with a cotter key or retainer. I've never used a torque wrench, just feel. You don't want it too tight or too loose.

I have been doing that way for over 50 years never lost a wheel bearing yet. You just need to know the feel of a correctly tightened bearing.

BFlinn181 · 07-12-2018, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chboone

I have been doing that way for over 50 years never lost a wheel bearing yet. You just need to know the feel of a correctly tightened bearing.

I was puzzled by the "50 Ft./Lbs" specification, it sounded too tight. Upon reading the Dexter manual, pg. 56, it doesn't specify 50 Ft./Lbs, it says, "approximately 50 Ft./Lbs, (12" wrench or pliers, with full hand force)

It then goes on to say, "loosen the nut to remove the torque" (not turning the hub) and then "Finger tighten the nut until just snug."

I had never heard of using a torque wrench in this procedure, and upon reading it, I found the torque wrench or Ft./Lb specification is not really needed. My faith in what my father and others had taught me when I was a teenager is restored.

Now before someone points it out, I also read that chboone and my technique is for standard axle bearings, the procedure for Nev-R-Lube hubs does specify 145-155 Ft./Lbs of torque and no mention of backing off the torque. I've never encountered those hubs.

Since you're only tightening the axle nut initially to center and seat the bearings, then backing off the torque to 'hand tight' the use of a torque wrench isn't really needed if you've done it before and have the 'feel' for what you're doing. The OP's report that he found 4 different tightness settings on his 'professionally' serviced axles would certainly scare me. I'd find a new shop.

L0veless · 07-12-2018, 10:05 AM

I agree with most info here, I just was concerned about all the variance when I tore it down. this is a new 5th wheel that's what had me concerned. this type of fluctuation from the factory. I had done it both ways hand tightening and the torque wrench I just prefer the torque wrench option.

thanks for all the help and info.

rarebear.nm · 07-12-2018, 12:35 PM

When you have a mentor around to teach you the right feel, that is great. For folks who have to learn on their own having some solid guidelines is helpful to learn that right feel. I started with a torque wrench, but now after several years I also trust my feel. Full hand force on a twelve inch wrench is easy enough to work with.