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08-09-2018, 03:39 PM
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#1
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Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 72
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Tire/wheel Maintenance
My buddy says rotate tire and repack bearings every 3,ooo miles. His buddy says every 6,000 mile. Camping World says 12,000 or once a year. Who's right and what's the best/most econoimical way to get this done?
We have a 42' tandem wheel Cedar Creek 5th wheel if that makes any difference.
Thank You,
Kim
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The Salmons
2018 GMC 3500HD diesel
2016 Cedar Creek Hathaway 38FB2
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08-09-2018, 03:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: DeLand, FL
Posts: 7,641
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Dexter Axles recommends every 12,000 miles or once a year.
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Rockwood 2604WS
Ford F250 Super Duty Diesel
Blue Ox Sway Pro
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08-09-2018, 09:16 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 4,988
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I manually pack my fifth wheel bearings yearly which also works out to be 10k miles. From what I have seen, I could go 2 years on a grease job without any grease problems, but I almost always find brake or seal issues during the grease job. That alone makes the yearly schedule worth it. Most people don't bother rotating trailer tires since they will age out at 5 to 7 years before the thread wears out. Last year my truck had 2 blowouts with tires that were 6 and 6 1/2 years old which now convinced me that 7 years may be pushing it. It's best to learn how to grease your own bearings which also improves skill and confidence to changing a tire on the road, it's not that hard to do.
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08-09-2018, 10:42 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grindstone01
I manually pack my fifth wheel bearings yearly which also works out to be 10k miles. From what I have seen, I could go 2 years on a grease job without any grease problems, but I almost always find brake or seal issues during the grease job. That alone makes the yearly schedule worth it. Most people don't bother rotating trailer tires since they will age out at 5 to 7 years before the thread wears out. Last year my truck had 2 blowouts with tires that were 6 and 6 1/2 years old which now convinced me that 7 years may be pushing it. It's best to learn how to grease your own bearings which also improves skill and confidence to changing a tire on the road, it's not that hard to do.
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Do you just repack in place or do you remove the bearing race clean and repack? Just curious.
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08-10-2018, 03:45 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: DeLand, FL
Posts: 7,641
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I never remove the race. Just clean out all of the old grease. I do install a new seal.
__________________
Rockwood 2604WS
Ford F250 Super Duty Diesel
Blue Ox Sway Pro
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08-10-2018, 06:04 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenb12
I never remove the race. Just clean out all of the old grease. I do install a new seal.
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Thanks for the tip!
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2022 Heartland Milestone 370FLMB 44'
2016 Keystone Outback 210URS 26'
2014 F350 Dually / B&W Companion Hitch
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08-10-2018, 11:13 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 4,988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hd883chopper
Do you just repack in place or do you remove the bearing race clean and repack? Just curious.
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If the seal is good, I will leave it intact and grease the rear bearing in place by using 2 fingers and applying new grease.
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08-16-2018, 01:11 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hd883chopper
Do you just repack in place or do you remove the bearing race clean and repack? Just curious.
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I haven't done mine yet on my fifth wheel, but from working on aircraft I can't imagine not removing the outer race to clean and repack.
__________________
John Morgan
1996 Western RV Alpenlite 31RL Augusta
1999 Ford F-350 XLT Crew 7.3 Powerstroke, ATS torque converter, Edge Products Juice Box
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08-16-2018, 06:28 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Carlos, Texas
Posts: 1,750
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I can't imagine not removing the outer race to clean and repack.
There is no need to. If you remove it, you will just set it aside and then put it back and do nothing to it. It's a metal ring and you cannot put grease in it. You actually risk damaging it by doing this, then you will have to replace your bearing.
One thing to note, it's not that easy in some areas finding the right seal. Once you do, make a note of the seal number or keep a box lid with the number put away for reference next time. Most auto places can only find seals by starting with the make and model of a car. Tractor Supply is a good source for trailer wheel seals.
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08-16-2018, 08:40 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliez
I can't imagine not removing the outer race to clean and repack.
There is no need to. If you remove it, you will just set it aside and then put it back and do nothing to it. It's a metal ring and you cannot put grease in it. You actually risk damaging it by doing this, then you will have to replace your bearing.
One thing to note, it's not that easy in some areas finding the right seal. Once you do, make a note of the seal number or keep a box lid with the number put away for reference next time. Most auto places can only find seals by starting with the make and model of a car. Tractor Supply is a good source for trailer wheel seals.
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Correct about the race. Does nothing to remove it.
I bought insurance for a wheel bearing going out on the road. I bought a complete brake drum with new bearings, grease and new seal. It's all pre-greased and stored in a plastic bag. Now that I'm prepared I'm sure I'll never need it.
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2004 Montana 2955RL, 400 watt solar, 2000 watt inverter/charger, 4-Interstate 225AH 6volt golf cart batteries, All LED lights,Champion Remote start 3- fuel option 3100/3400 inverter/gen.- 2000 F-350 7.3 4x4 long bed crew cab SRW.
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08-16-2018, 10:54 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliez
I can't imagine not removing the outer race to clean and repack.
There is no need to. If you remove it, you will just set it aside and then put it back and do nothing to it. It's a metal ring and you cannot put grease in it. You actually risk damaging it by doing this, then you will have to replace your bearing.
One thing to note, it's not that easy in some areas finding the right seal. Once you do, make a note of the seal number or keep a box lid with the number put away for reference next time. Most auto places can only find seals by starting with the make and model of a car. Tractor Supply is a good source for trailer wheel seals.
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This is why I shouldn't get on forums after a long shift, I confused my terms and I can't read for crap. The outer race is the cup pressed into the hub. So you're right. No need to remove. Just spray it down, wipe it off, check for defects, and smear a light coat of grease.
I was thinking of the inner race which is the cone, but I think you guys just call the cup a race and the cone a bearing.
__________________
John Morgan
1996 Western RV Alpenlite 31RL Augusta
1999 Ford F-350 XLT Crew 7.3 Powerstroke, ATS torque converter, Edge Products Juice Box
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08-17-2018, 12:34 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliez
I can't imagine not removing the outer race to clean and repack.
There is no need to. If you remove it, you will just set it aside and then put it back and do nothing to it. It's a metal ring and you cannot put grease in it. You actually risk damaging it by doing this, then you will have to replace your bearing.
One thing to note, it's not that easy in some areas finding the right seal. Once you do, make a note of the seal number or keep a box lid with the number put away for reference next time. Most auto places can only find seals by starting with the make and model of a car. Tractor Supply is a good source for trailer wheel seals.
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Great info thank you!
__________________
2022 Heartland Milestone 370FLMB 44'
2016 Keystone Outback 210URS 26'
2014 F350 Dually / B&W Companion Hitch
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