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Old 07-29-2004, 01:54 PM   #15
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Bay City, Mi
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I just plain haven't had the time to get back to it. I am hoping in another week or two I can do it. The trailer is in for an awning spring breakage at this time and I have been busy helping a friend open a business. I do see light at the end of the tunnel. Hopefully!!
2000 35' Carri Lite fifth wheel with triple slideouts. Rear living room with a 20' awning.
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Old 07-29-2004, 04:42 PM   #16
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kerfcutter; Big hammers are for those that don't know how to do it right and cause more damage than the eye can see. I have had the same problem occur on my car, back off the star adjuster, then the brake shoes will get closer together and allow the drum to come off. I'd almost say without a doubt you'll have a ridge in there, take the drums to a brake shop and have them machined down within spec, and get a new set of shoes, that will save the aggravation for next time.
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:36 AM   #17
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Most trailer brakes are NOT self adjusting, therefore as they wear there will be a larger gap between the edge of the shoe and the drum. Most of the times I have had problems removing drums is due to my explanation in a previous post. But I would agree to try backing off the starwheel as it is the easiest to try first, may or may not be effective. Good luck. John
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:56 AM   #18
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I have a jayco trailer and had the very same problem. I could not pull the hub off. I used a puller to remove them after the nut was loose. As it turns out Dexter uses 2 different types of seals. A standard grease seal and a 2 piece oil bath seal. If the 2 piece oil bath seal is used as was the case on my trailer even though they greased the bearings, you must use a puller to remove the hub for bearing repacking.
I called Dexter and their explanation was that they don't want to stock 2 seal varieties so, the just use the 2 part seals even though they cost more. Their down side is that a puller must be used and cost. I replaced them with the cheaper and no puller required grease seal as per Dexters instructions. Now, a puller is no longer required to remove the hub. Just pull the nut and a good yank on the hub and they come right off.
As a point of interest the most common reason for bearing failure is heat. Heat can be caused by many things but the most common reasons are, in order, Too much preload on the bearings causing heat. Too much grease causing too much heat. Contamination from water or debris causing rusting or gauling causing too much heat. And, lack of grease or the use of incorrect grease causing too much heat. Finally, the use of poor quality bearings causing too much heat.
To properly grease bearings you should use a bearing packer not your hands. Your hands have oils and acids and debris on them that can contaminate steel. Your hands can be used if washed repeatedly and finally rinsed with a fast drying solvent. Assemble the bearings and always install new seals. While turning the hub, screw down the nut and continue tightening the nut with a wrench to about 50 ft. lbs. to fully seat and remove excess grease from the races. Now, without turning the hub, back the nut off until the nut can be turned by your fingers. Do not turn the hub and run the nut up as tight as can be achieved by using only your fingers and put the cotter pin in. If the pin can not be installed, back the nut off until the pin will slide into the next castle. Never tighten to the next castle with a wrench. This procedure will almost always achieve the proper preload.
Paul R. Haller
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Old 01-13-2005, 10:15 AM   #19
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Kerfcutter. If you have the E-Z-Lube axles on your trailer, the inner wheel seal is a special seal that seals the grease so it stays in the wheel & does not get through the seal. The seal will make the grease push back to the front bearing. It is not a real big deal but you need a little force on the hub assembly to break the seal loose. You can put a bar across the hub & use the wheel nut & stud to break the seal or you can buy a wheel (Hub/drum) puller that will help you do the same thing. Just remember to first back off the brake adjustment as you have been told before. I did a LITTLE over kill & bought a 50 ton hydraulic puller for my trailer. Just thought it might come in handy for other jobs I sometimes find myself involved in. Don't even use 1ooth of the capacity of the puller to break my seals/hubs loose. Just me, I do a lot of things in a bigger way then necessary.

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Old 01-20-2005, 05:25 AM   #20
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Solds like it's time to get a new set of drums and brakes while you are at it. I hope the trip went OK
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:41 PM   #21
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I'm no expert, but I have seen a reason for "can't get drum off spindle" that I don't think anyone has mentioned...

The inner bearing could have got hot or dry, and spun on the spindle...

When you try to remove the drum, you should be able to feel if it is the bearing or seal vs the brake shoes holding it back. As you are trying to pull the drum towards you try to rotate it. If it turns and wiggles easily, it's probably not hung up on the shoes.

Also, I had trouble getting one of mine off, and I didn't have a puller big enough to reach the back of the drum. I started 3 lugs on backwards, and was able to get a smaller 3 jaw puller to grip the square shoulders of the nuts. Probably only works for 6 lug drums, though.

Good luck.
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Old 02-27-2005, 10:56 AM   #22
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Kerfcutter, my '01 CarriLite sounds an awful lot like yours and I ALWAYS have to back off on the brake adjusting pawl (starwheel) IOT get the hub off. Theres a lip (small) on the inside edge of the hub, that, if your brakes are adjusted correctly (just touching drum), WILL prevent you from removing the hub.

Mine are 7200# axles, with 12 1/4" x 2 1/2"

Believe me, I've had these off too many times to count (hi mileage) and had to do this everytime.

Best of luck Pardner!!
Rick & Carolyn

'01 34'Carri-Lite, 5ver
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