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Old 07-19-2021, 11:32 AM   #15
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could easily live full time in our ORV 25 RDS where I currently live which is in the Willamette valley in Oregon. Winters get cold but not like ND and hot but nothing like AZ.
There would be stretches where the AC would run 18 hrs a day or where the heat would be on 24/7. But for the most part it would be almost like we do in our home.

Certain parts of the country are much more demanding and as tuff said will eally tax an RV's full time ability.
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Old 07-19-2021, 11:44 AM   #16
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We're full timers (going on 4 years) in a 4 season Montana. We've had our rig down in the low teens many times with no issues whatsoever.

Just off the top of my head:

Heating duct to the underbelly (under the basement only)
Tank heaters
All plumbing is routed inside the insulated or heated areas
All wastewater blade valves are internal with remote cables (if it has external valves it's definitely not a 4 season camper)



Disconnect fresh water hose and run off the pump.

Set the furnace to 40F at night to keep heat into the heated underbelly under the basement and to minimize overnight propane use.

If one is boon-docking you'll need Lithium or generator as the furnace blower is hard on batteries. We have six Battle Born's so it's not an issue for us.

We always try to face the side with the big windows south to allow heating by the sun. The sun will do most of the work warming the place up.

Some good info on cold wether RV camping here:

https://www.wyomingpublicmedia.org/o...tudy-man-camps
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Old 07-20-2021, 09:10 AM   #17
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Thanks All of you.

Thanks to you all for responding to my question. I got a lot of opinions and most match the idea and what I thought. There is no standard for 4 seasons. Sealed under belly with heated duct work and heated tanks are a must. Waste vales inside the under belly seal also. Most of that I get for sure. About the only thing I have not seen listed or posted is the storage area. My water management system is controlled in the storage area . I think a small oil filled space heater set on low might work for that though. As for R values I'm not so sure any of them are really true. How much wall insulation can you get in a 2 or 3 inch thick wall? Not much. Seems a 4 season unit is hit or miss as to how the camper is built which is kind of what I thought. My unit has about all the listed needs . I don't plan to go winter camping much but when we were in the Tetons last year working at Colter Bay there were times when the temps even in summer and early September dropped in to the lower 20's. It snowed Labor Day and the temps were in 19 to 20 range. The only part that was not warm at all was the storage area. I can see the lines freezing in there if it gets to cold and even with the water tank sealed and heated, those lines in the management area could definitely freeze up. Again thanks for all the input.
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Old 07-20-2021, 02:25 PM   #18
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About all the watch for are covered and you have summed it up well. I'll add that many/most that are built for full time living will have most or all these features. I have KZ Durango Gold, built for full time living, I did not order double panes. KZ is a little known RV been around a long time just not one of the "popular" brands. https://www.kz-rv.com/products/duran...struction.html
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Old 07-21-2021, 11:43 AM   #19
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Here's another option for you. The Truma tankless hot water heater with a re-circ pump.
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Old 07-21-2021, 11:08 PM   #20
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I added 2 - 4" ducts to our furnace with dust collector vales to control the air flow as the temperature drops,

A multi point thermometer keeps tracks of the storage compartment. batteries,valves,tanks,outside temps.

Dry camping at -5F there is no issue with water freezing. The bottom of the trailer is insulated with 2" XPS.

We have 1 1/2" EPS plugs for the windows that go are used all winter.

Wind doesn't make it colder but it sure sucks the heat out so I pile snow against the trailer to block it.

When the batteries reach 20F I'll run the furnace more to keep the battery capacity up.

We use a 110V dehumidifier.

At 10F the alum window frames are frozen on the inside.

At 5F the condensation on the alum door frame will freeze it shut so I spray the frame with windshield washer fluid beforehand.


I use low temp grease year round. On time we went from 35F to 15F in a day and every lock and latch was frozen.
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Old 07-22-2021, 03:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLOY View Post
I added 2 - 4" ducts to our furnace with dust collector vales to control the air flow as the temperature drops,

A multi point thermometer keeps tracks of the storage compartment. batteries,valves,tanks,outside temps.

Dry camping at -5F there is no issue with water freezing. The bottom of the trailer is insulated with 2" XPS.

We have 1 1/2" EPS plugs for the windows that go are used all winter.

Wind doesn't make it colder but it sure sucks the heat out so I pile snow against the trailer to block it.

When the batteries reach 20F I'll run the furnace more to keep the battery capacity up.

We use a 110V dehumidifier.

At 10F the alum window frames are frozen on the inside.

At 5F the condensation on the alum door frame will freeze it shut so I spray the frame with windshield washer fluid beforehand.


I use low temp grease year round. On time we went from 35F to 15F in a day and every lock and latch was frozen.
And I was worried about 25 to 20F temps. GEES.
Where do you live. I have to avoid camping there.
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Old 07-22-2021, 07:14 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLOY View Post
I added 2 - 4" ducts to our furnace with dust collector vales to control the air flow as the temperature drops,

A multi point thermometer keeps tracks of the storage compartment. batteries,valves,tanks,outside temps.

Dry camping at -5F there is no issue with water freezing. The bottom of the trailer is insulated with 2" XPS.

We have 1 1/2" EPS plugs for the windows that go are used all winter.

Wind doesn't make it colder but it sure sucks the heat out so I pile snow against the trailer to block it.

When the batteries reach 20F I'll run the furnace more to keep the battery capacity up.

We use a 110V dehumidifier.

At 10F the alum window frames are frozen on the inside.

At 5F the condensation on the alum door frame will freeze it shut so I spray the frame with windshield washer fluid beforehand.


I use low temp grease year round. On time we went from 35F to 15F in a day and every lock and latch was frozen.
So the moral of the story here is that RVs can be capable at low temperatures with modifications and intervention.
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Old 07-22-2021, 07:56 AM   #23
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I moved to my house and lived in it for several years. I had a good wooden garage door. Well we had a extra cold spell of-17F one winter. I had frost on the inside of the garage door. It would be difficult to keep water from freezing in a travel trailer in extra bitter low temperatures.
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