Where is the line drawn for all season units?

[ScopesNC]

I see a lot of different makes and model 5th wheels out there. Some claim to be all season or 4 seasons units and some don't claim it. I look at some of the build specs and can't find a real difference in them. How is one to know? I know higher end units cost more due to higher end furniture and appliances and trim , but what makes them a 4 season and not others? It certainly isn't trim and furniture.

[Mr_D]

Supposidly a 4 season rig is better insulated than a 3 season rig.There is no standard. The manufacturers are free to call their rigs what ever they want. So some 3 season rigs are better than some 4 season rigs.

[Old-Biscuit]

All Season/4season
Higher Insulation Value
Enclosed heated underbelly
Heated tanks
Attic Vents

Those were our concerns when we purchased our NUWA 5th wheel

[Jacjetlag]

Two latin phrases apply....

1. "Caveat emptor"

Educate yourself to the point that you know exactly what you want and you know it when you see it.

2. "Illegitimi non carborundum"

Essentially, don't believe sales"persons" and double check their math.

[TXiceman]

Anyone can hang a sticker claiming that the unit has a Polar or Arctic package. There is no industry standard for a 4 season trailer. As note it is buyer beware.

Ours is claimed to be 4 season and it is better insulated, dual pane windows and a heated basement. We have been in cold to 10 degF and hot to 109 degF and far much better than most folks.

And above all, you know when the sales person is not speaking the truth....his lips will be moving.

Ken

[donr103]

You have the duty to inspect the coach.. and if you bid on one and place down payment... put in that rv must pass your final inspection... or no deal.. you get 24 to 48hrs.. it's common today to bid or put down payment on coaches that you don't see or are being made.. that said.. you look at dump valves if they are exposed then not a 4 season.. if tanks are exposed then not a 4 season.. then look in basement for dedicated heating vent.. if none then not a 4 season.. even if you get a 4 season coach... plan on adding insulation.. tank heaters can be added.. so if one finds.. dump valves are covered and tanks are covered and heating vent in basement.. you can add the rest.. tank heater.. insulation and there are ways to cover signal Payne windows that will get you there at a fraction of what manufacturer will charge..there is a lot of great information here on how to add insulation.. and great vids on you tube.. good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you..

[Cumminsfan]

RV R values are pretty much worthless. Consider that even if an RV wall was rated at R-11 that the huge windows in it may or may not be dual pane thermal insulated and then couple that with the fact that most DP RV windows have a really low R value, you've basically negated the R-9-11 wall by adding huge widows that have almost no R value.
Now figure out how many slides and how big they are. Those slides are typically made with 3/4"-1" plywood with a thermal foil on top of the floor. Add in the windows in the slide and the thinner roof and you have hardly any R value.
The floor may be rated high but the slides negate some of that.

Very few RV's that tout 4 season are really adequate for 4 season camping.
With out spending in the $200K and up range IMO DRV is about as good as it gets.

The rest of the stuff is just hype.

[jacknife]

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

RV R values are pretty much worthless. Consider that even if an RV wall was rated at R-11 that the huge windows in it may or may not be dual pane thermal insulated and then couple that with the fact that most DP RV windows have a really low R value, you've basically negated the R-9-11 wall by adding huge widows that have almost no R value.
Now figure out how many slides and how big they are. Those slides are typically made with 3/4"-1" plywood with a thermal foil on top of the floor. Add in the windows in the slide and the thinner roof and you have hardly any R value.
The floor may be rated high but the slides negate some of that.

Very few RV's that tout 4 season are really adequate for 4 season camping.
With out spending in the $200K and up range IMO DRV is about as good as it gets.

The rest of the stuff is just hype.

Luxe , River stone , Red Wood , Artic fox are also decently insulated . The rest are about the same . Winter in California .Summer in Washington on the coast and that’s the four seasons they are talking about . The slides definitely get colder or warmer depending on the weather . Not much insulation.

[propchef]

Originally Posted by Jacjetlag

Two latin phrases apply....

1. "Caveat emptor"

Educate yourself to the point that you know exactly what you want and you know it when you see it.

2. "Illegitimi non carborundum"

Essentially, don't believe sales"persons" and double check their math.

This is the answer for most of the questions on this forum, from towing to purchasing.

[tuffr2]

I can not add much except to say if you plan to camp in the January and February you will be cold at night. Even in south Arizona or Florida nights get down to 40 degrees or colder.

Someone mentioned R values for a wall. Then they mention as soon as you put a big window in the wall the R value is way less than advertised. I agree with this.

In a 5th wheel if you can safely put an electric heater in the front storage area that will keep the above area - usually the bedroom warm(ish).

[rarebear.nm]

Our Excel 5th wheeler is rated to 0F. I know several people who full time in them in those temperatures and they do fine. Results speak much louder than sales claims.

To me some of the features you want to look for include:
1. Double pane windows
2. Heated basement and underbelly where the waste tanks are located.
3. Ducted forced air heat
4. As high of an R value as you find, not many manufactures even post this number. Find out what insulation is used and the details how the walls, ceiling and floor is really made.
5. Find full time people who have the same model and where they winter.
6. All water plumbing is located within heated space.
7. How the waste tank drains are installed. All but the last few inches should be in heated space.

We've been out in temperatures hitting 4F and no problems. We run the furnace most nights we out. The A/C has been on only a few times in 7 years.

Lots of research is key to help not make a mistake on selection.

Good luck....

[scbwr]

Agree with "educate yourself"!

But, there are some basic things to look for:
1. Double pane windows insulate better and avoid the condensation problem.
2. Look for the R values of the floor, walls and ceiling.
3. Heated tanks or water bays are needed for true four season camping.
4. Expect to burn quite a bit of propane using the furnace in cold weather, so make sure the propane tank(s) are large enough to avoid having to constantly get tank(s) filled.
5. Quality of any slide outs (wall construction, seals) is important.

From what I've seen, you have to be able to determine whether a rig was really designed for colder (and hotter) temperatures or whether it is a typical RV with just a add on package that will help in extreme temps, but doesn't really make it a 4 season camper.

As already stated, there is no universal set of standards required or applicable to RVs that are labeled "four season" equipped.

[jks]

My rig is 4 season-ish. After spending 6 years and average of 150 days a year in it, I found that anything over 100 degrees is too hot, and anything below 25 degrees is work.
Your 4 season requirement may need to include summers.

[tuffr2]

The line is drawn. Get below I10 in the winter and above I70 in the summer.

Do not get caught below I10 in May and do not get caught above I70 in November.