Quote:
Originally Posted by bro61021
Did I determine my loaded trailer weight incorrectly. Am I suppose to add the trailer tongue jack weight and the axle weights together or do I just consider the axle weight
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Depends. The gross loaded trailer weight is not used for anything after you own the trailer.
So normally after you own the tow vehicle and trailer, you compare the weight on the trailer axles to the combined GAWR of the trailer to determine if the trailer is overloaded.
With the trailer tied on and the spring bars adjusted, add the weights on the steer and drive axles to get GVW, then compare GVW to the GVWR of the tow vehicle to determine if you exceed the payload capacity of the tow vehicle.
Compare the gross weight of the rig to the GCWR of the tow vehicle to determine if you can comfortably pull that trailer without overheating anything in the drivetrain, and without being the slowpoke holding up traffic on steep grades.
For more info you can use to fine-tune your WD hitch, you can weigh the rig again, but this time with the spring bars disconnected and placed in the bed. Then compare the weights on the various axles of the rig to see the amount of weight distribution the WD hitch provides. Tighten the spring bars to reduce the weight on the rear axle and distribute that weight to the front and trailer axles. Loosen the spring bars to add weight on the rear axle and distribute less weight to the front and trailer axles.
If you tighten the spring bars to result in zero to about one-half inch rise in the front end (compared to the unloaded tow vehicle), then you're close to havng the right amount of hitch weight remaining on the rear axle.
Your goal is about 20% to 25% of gross hitch weight distributed off the rear axle and onto the front axle. And another 20% to 25% of gross hitch weight distributed off the rear axle and onto the trailer axles. If you don't have about the same weight added to the front and trailer axles, then you need to adjust the angle of the ball to the coupler to get them closer.
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