5th Wheel Running/Stop/Turn Signals Suddenly Quit on a Trip

[GeoffDW]

I own a 2018 Columbus Palomino 298RL, towed by a '17 Ford F350. Everything has worked great until this trip. Hooked up TV and all lights checked fine. But 200 miles down the road I realized I had no running lights, turn signals, or brake lights. Had mobile Mech out and the TV is fine and so is the pigtail to the box - wired correctly and good voltage. The issue is somewhere after the junction box on the kingpin and the lights - the 5th wheel has an issue. Brakes do work which makes me think it's after the braking axle? Picked up temp lights and installed the next day. Temps worked fine -- and when I tested the temp. turn signals the trailers were also working again (kept the 7 pin in place for the brakes and used the 4-pin for the temp lights only. The only change was that at night I had the OD slide extended that night. Just got it back from warranty where they replaced all slide motors (and evidently had to get into the sealed space by the OD slide)


1) Any idea where the running lights and turn/stop signal circuit runs along the frame or? Are they on the left side when looking back to front?
2) Are there any plugs that they could have loosened up or goofed up during warranty work that I can fix?

3) any hints on where to start chasing wires?



I am in Yuma, AZ and don't want to tow it all the way back to Huntsville, Alabama so they can keep it for another 6 months.



Any help would be super appreciated!!

[kdauto]

Just to make sure I understand the issue, did you say a mobile tech tested at the 7 pin connector of your F350 and all wiring and output there was OK? If so, did the tech use a small LED plug-in type tester or did he/she connect to another trailer or RV? Sometimes the low amp requirement of the LEDs don,t make a problem apparent compared to the several amp draw of an RV.

The RV must have at least one 12V fusebox. Mine has a smaller fuse and breaker box in the front belly near the 12V converter as well as one panel at the entrance wall. Have all fuses been tested?

[GeoffDW]

Originally Posted by kdauto

Just to make sure I understand the issue, did you say a mobile tech tested at the 7 pin connector of your F350 and all wiring and output there was OK? If so, did the tech use a small LED plug-in type tester or did he/she connect to another trailer or RV? Sometimes the low amp requirement of the LEDs don,t make a problem apparent compared to the several amp draw of an RV.

The RV must have at least one 12V fusebox. Mine has a smaller fuse and breaker box in the front belly near the 12V converter as well as one panel at the entrance wall. Have all fuses been tested?

The mobile Tech did three separate tests, 1) one with my truck to test proper output voltage, 2) jumpers to each wire in the junction box and 12 volts from my truck (and he made an additional ground in case), and 3) one with a special tester that duplicated a 7 pin connector like on my truck and permitted him to send a solid 12 volts to any or all wires. Truck is good and has no issues. Wiring from junction box back has an issue, that's why I asked about where the wires ran on a 298RL and if there were connectors in the area of the slide they worked on that could be loose. I am not enjoying the thought of removing the belly covering on exploratory surgery. I have looked at all fuses in the 5th wheel even though I was told that the trailer tow wiring is not fused in the 5th wheel. I did not see any towing wiring related fuses in either box.

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by GeoffDW

The mobile Tech did three separate tests, 1) one with my truck to test proper output voltage, 2) jumpers to each wire in the junction box and 12 volts from my truck (and he made an additional ground in case), and 3) one with a special tester that duplicated a 7 pin connector like on my truck and permitted him to send a solid 12 volts to any or all wires. Truck is good and has no issues. Wiring from junction box back has an issue, that's why I asked about where the wires ran on a 298RL and if there were connectors in the area of the slide they worked on that could be loose. I am not enjoying the thought of removing the belly covering on exploratory surgery. I have looked at all fuses in the 5th wheel even though I was told that the trailer tow wiring is not fused in the 5th wheel. I did not see any towing wiring related fuses in either box.

I wish I could help you but it seems like only a hands-on approach may work on this. I am pretty sure you could access the wires in the front belly pan, typically near where the batteries are. I am almost sure you can access those wires as they usually run down from the kingpin area to the lower frame area. From there you'd know if all wiring is intact kingpin to the first 6' or so of trailer. They likely run behind one of the cardboard/plastic covers that hide the sides.

[tuffr2]

I had a fuse burn out on my 2012 Superduty but that is not your problem.

That leaves something the RV Dealer did fixing the slide motors. The ole fix/break like I do. I fix one thing but break another.

Maybe try to trace where the shop was working and look for a loose/broken wire.

Good luck