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Old 10-20-2020, 07:52 PM   #1
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Auxiliary fuel tank install

I have an RDS auxiliary diesel fuel tank that has been in my 2017 Ram 3500 SRW and I pulled it out of it and plan to install it in the new 2020 Ram 3500 DRW. I talked to one of the local truck outfitters and they want $2-300, don't remember the exact figure, to install PLUS the cost of the fuel nozzle check valve which for them was over $100. Installing the tank is straight forward. I need the bed cushioning pads, new isolation bolts, the fuel nozzle manifold, and drill 3 holes in the bed.

My question involves installing the check valve manifold. I haven't got under the truck yet but the 2017 pipe between the filler and tank was a metal tube. Install involves cutting the tube, using the kit's 2 rubber hose sections and the manifold with the check valve. How do you cut the stock filler pipe without getting metal, or any other material, in the tank and filler neck? Metal shaving would wreak havoc for a fuel pump I imagine. I haven't looked at any of the kits installation instructions to see if there are suggestions or techniques.
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunker View Post
I have an RDS auxiliary diesel fuel tank that has been in my 2017 Ram 3500 SRW and I pulled it out of it and plan to install it in the new 2020 Ram 3500 DRW. I talked to one of the local truck outfitters and they want $2-300, don't remember the exact figure, to install PLUS the cost of the fuel nozzle check valve which for them was over $100. Installing the tank is straight forward. I need the bed cushioning pads, new isolation bolts, the fuel nozzle manifold, and drill 3 holes in the bed.

My question involves installing the check valve manifold. I haven't got under the truck yet but the 2017 pipe between the filler and tank was a metal tube. Install involves cutting the tube, using the kit's 2 rubber hose sections and the manifold with the check valve. How do you cut the stock filler pipe without getting metal, or any other material, in the tank and filler neck? Metal shaving would wreak havoc for a fuel pump I imagine. I haven't looked at any of the kits installation instructions to see if there are suggestions or techniques.
I can't see how your new truck is set up, but the metal tubes can be cut with a pipe cutter that creates virtually no debris.

When I mounted my kit, nothing existed pre-made as I have a gas engine. I removed my metal filler neck and cut/welded in a t-fitting and fill nipple. I don't have a check valve as you explain it. I let it gravity feed via a normally closed solendoid, which acts as a check valve anyway. Not sure what the kit check valve is supposed to do.

All filler necks can be removed. To be honest, 200-300$ seems pretty cheap if it's done properly.
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Old 10-21-2020, 02:04 AM   #3
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I can't see how your new truck is set up, but the metal tubes can be cut with a pipe cutter that creates virtually no debris.

When I mounted my kit, nothing existed pre-made as I have a gas engine. I removed my metal filler neck and cut/welded in a t-fitting and fill nipple. I don't have a check valve as you explain it. I let it gravity feed via a normally closed solendoid, which acts as a check valve anyway. Not sure what the kit check valve is supposed to do.

All filler necks can be removed. To be honest, 200-300$ seems pretty cheap if it's done properly.
The check valve allows fuel to flow into the filler. When the tank and filler tube is full, the check ball cuts off flow. I'm going to call RDS and see what their recommendation is for cutting and need to get the tank cushion strips, and new bolt attaching hardware.
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Old 10-21-2020, 06:56 AM   #4
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The check valve allows fuel to flow into the filler. When the tank and filler tube is full, the check ball cuts off flow. I'm going to call RDS and see what their recommendation is for cutting and need to get the tank cushion strips, and new bolt attaching hardware.
The check valve may or may not work as you describe. It is actually a rollover valve designed to prevent the flow of fuel in the event of a rollover. I'm installing an ATI 60 gallon tank in my truck. Not a hard job.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-21-2020, 12:24 PM   #5
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The check valve may or may not work as you describe. It is actually a rollover valve designed to prevent the flow of fuel in the event of a rollover. I'm installing an ATI 60 gallon tank in my truck. Not a hard job.Attachment 305475
As it was described to me the valve has a ball which floats and when fuel backs up to that point, it cuts off flow from the tank. That means that the orientation of it on install has to be up so it functions. It also apparently causes a restriction to the flow out as it can take about 30-45 minutes to refill tank. Not exactly high tech device but it does work so that if the ball valve petcock is left open, fuel doesn't go all the way to the fill port.
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Old 10-21-2020, 04:34 PM   #6
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My Son just installed a Titan Tank in mine and didnít cut or drill into anything. The vent/ fill came with the kit . Order it from Titan . Just donít drill or cut into it .
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Old 10-21-2020, 05:07 PM   #7
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My Son just installed a Titan Tank in mine and didnít cut or drill into anything. The vent/ fill came with the kit . Order it from Titan . Just donít drill or cut into it .
I may be mistaken but I believe Titan only builds replacement tanks. The O.P. is adding an auxiliary in-bed tank, so he will need a method to tee-in to the filler neck/hose.

All modern vehicles have some sort of rolllover valve that prevents fuel from spewing out the filler neck in case of a rollover. Most times they are at the bottom of the filler neck, sometimes integrated to the OE fuel tank.

I did not add any extra rollover valve to my filler neck when I constructed my "tee-in" to the fill hose assembly. The OE rollover is still functional as are the tank vents, only 1 originally and now 2. How you vent your tank can be an issue on gas vehicle due to emissions.
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Old 10-21-2020, 08:42 PM   #8
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I installed an ATI auxiliary tank in the bed of my truck and used their "Fuel Shotz" filler neck tee. As you described, the fuel transfer shuts off automatically when fuel backs up the filler neck. Unfortunately for me my fuel pump vented on top of the tank and fuel would gush out . Had I not caught it my entire aux tank would have been drained on my driveway. I ended up installing an in line electric valve which is controlled from the cab with an indicator light. Transfer is slow but I am towing anyhow and the system is intuitive. I'm glad my tank worked out that way as I would have been concerned about the float valve on its own.

My install required that I cut into a rubber filler neck, easy. If cutting into a metal neck, I would remove it from the truck, dress the cut real well and flush with solvent. I share your concerns regarding filings into the fuel tank let alone tempting a spark. A couple hundred bucks isn't too bad assuming it is done correctly.
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Old 10-22-2020, 07:50 AM   #9
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I installed an ATI auxiliary tank in the bed of my truck and used their "Fuel Shotz" filler neck tee. As you described, the fuel transfer shuts off automatically when fuel backs up the filler neck. Unfortunately for me my fuel pump vented on top of the tank and fuel would gush out . Had I not caught it my entire aux tank would have been drained on my driveway. I ended up installing an in line electric valve which is controlled from the cab with an indicator light. Transfer is slow but I am towing anyhow and the system is intuitive. I'm glad my tank worked out that way as I would have been concerned about the float valve on its own.

My install required that I cut into a rubber filler neck, easy. If cutting into a metal neck, I would remove it from the truck, dress the cut real well and flush with solvent. I share your concerns regarding filings into the fuel tank let alone tempting a spark. A couple hundred bucks isn't too bad assuming it is done correctly.
My tank was originally installed in a F250 along with air springs. Early on I had part of a tank "vent/leak" on my GFs driveway. That and the screwed up air springs install, had the truck back to them. When I traded that truck for the 2017 Ram I had them put the same tank into the Ram. That install was screwed up too. They didn't secure the 2 filler hose sleeves to the metal fill tube so the tank dripped during filling the onboard tank. I fixed that myself. I know, shouldn't have gone back there and WILL NOT again.

There is another truck outfitter that I talked to and now having a bit more knowledge how the system should be installed, I'll ask some specific questions about how they put it in. Earlier I had talked to them about supplementary air springs for the 3500 SRW and they didn't push them. I thought that was ethical. I just bought a $75K truck and I'm not going to cheap-out on a tank install.
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:33 AM   #10
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There is another truck outfitter that I talked to and now having a bit more knowledge how the system should be installed, I'll ask some specific questions about how they put it in. Earlier I had talked to them about supplementary air springs for the 3500 SRW and they didn't push them. I thought that was ethical. I just bought a $75K truck and I'm not going to cheap-out on a tank install.
Talked to the other outfit and for $193.66 OTD they will install the tank, put cushion strips between the tank and bed, replace one of the isolation mounts, and put the kit in. Couple weeks I'll take it to them. Me and my back figured that was a no brainer.
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Old 05-08-2022, 06:19 PM   #11
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I see this thread is several months old, but a quick question for those who have installed an gravity fed aux tank with a solenoid valveÖ.

Iím about to install a 60 gal RDS tank/toolbox (even though I probably canít afford to fill it up)

Any recommendations for a specific brand/model of NC solenoid valve you are pleased with or those to avoid that maybe didnít work out well?

US Solid seems to be popular, but iíve read a number of comments about how hot they get when switched on for a while; realizing of course all will heat up some due to the DC current doing itís job. Also, some have indicated the 3/8Ē NPT version of this brand has a very small orfice that restricts the flow such that it doesnít keep up with the fuel consumption rate. Ideally, Iím hoping to out run my ~10MPG burn rate enough to be able to open the valve via upfitter switch when stock tank is about 1/2 full and watch my fuel gauge rise a bit for maybe 30 minutes then shut off and repeat again later.

Currently considering the US Solid brand in 1/2Ē which has a larger opening than the fittings with my RDS install kit so the solenoid valve shouldnít be the bottleneck.

Appreciate any feedback/recommendations for those who have done this already.

Thanks much in advance!
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Old 05-08-2022, 06:42 PM   #12
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I see this thread is several months old, but a quick question for those who have installed an gravity fed aux tank with a solenoid valveÖ.

Iím about to install a 60 gal RDS tank/toolbox (even though I probably canít afford to fill it up)

Any recommendations for a specific brand/model of NC solenoid valve you are pleased with or those to avoid that maybe didnít work out well?

US Solid seems to be popular, but iíve read a number of comments about how hot they get when switched on for a while; realizing of course all will heat up some due to the DC current doing itís job. Also, some have indicated the 3/8Ē NPT version of this brand has a very small orfice that restricts the flow such that it doesnít keep up with the fuel consumption rate. Ideally, Iím hoping to out run my ~10MPG burn rate enough to be able to open the valve via upfitter switch when stock tank is about 1/2 full and watch my fuel gauge rise a bit for maybe 30 minutes then shut off and repeat again later.

Currently considering the US Solid brand in 1/2Ē which has a larger opening than the fittings with my RDS install kit so the solenoid valve shouldnít be the bottleneck.

Appreciate any feedback/recommendations for those who have done this already.

Thanks much in advance!
I was not as methodic in keeping notes on R.O.s in 2013 as I am today. I'm not sure where I bought the N.C. solemoid, but I think it was local. I'm not sure it is even a 3/8 hose size, but if it is, that's the max it is. I am sure it is no bigger, but it is possible I used 5/16".

I know that at an 8.5MPG burn rate, it will slowly fill the 34 gallon main tank as I'm driving. Mine is gas, but I's sure at 10MPG+ a 3/8" fitting will keep up and fill your main tank as you drive too.

If I can get it on the lift in the next few weeks I'll see if I can make out a brand name or part#. I know I need to perform some maintenance but I have been super busy.
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Old 05-08-2022, 08:32 PM   #13
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I was not as methodic in keeping notes on R.O.s in 2013 as I am today. I'm not sure where I bought the N.C. solemoid, but I think it was local. I'm not sure it is even a 3/8 hose size, but if it is, that's the max it is. I am sure it is no bigger, but it is possible I used 5/16".



I know that at an 8.5MPG burn rate, it will slowly fill the 34 gallon main tank as I'm driving. Mine is gas, but I's sure at 10MPG+ a 3/8" fitting will keep up and fill your main tank as you drive too.



If I can get it on the lift in the next few weeks I'll see if I can make out a brand name or part#. I know I need to perform some maintenance but I have been super busy.


Thanks kdauto, appreciate the quick reply.
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Old 05-08-2022, 08:43 PM   #14
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My auxiliary tank is a 40 U.S. gallon. The main tank is a 34 U.S. gallon. When on long hauls, I usually flip the switch on when the main tank gets to 1/4 remaining. Most of the time, it will slowly fill the main tank and attain anywhere from 75 to 100% full depending on truck consumption and road conditions.

One thing I caution is to not let the main tank just get filled and stay at the full mark for hours on end. Most if not all modern trucks will set a code for incorrect or stuck fuel sender, BTDT.
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