Brakes overheating with red sparks flying

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by beerdude

Personally, I can only think of three events that would compel me to squeeze the brake controller on the dash.

1) Initial setup of gain per the manual. Mine is at 9.0 for example. On my setup, that doesn't lock the RV brakes and makes for smooth stopping all the way down to 0 MPH. Too high of a gain setting can make for your RV tires locking up during panic stops and/or herky-jerky stops at stop lights/signs. Too low of a gain setting can overwork your truck's brakes during stopping.

2) Tug test before departing camp with RV in tow. This need will vary by hitch make and preference. I don't do tug tests because I have a B&W Companion and a checklist that prompts me to visibly verify king pin is fully locked.

3) If you see your 5th wheel wagging in the mirror behind you, or other wise feel swaying getting out of control. I have yet to encounter this in about 5,000 miles of travel, but I am fully prepared to quickly reach for the brake controller if need be. And if I did encounter such a scenario, I would reconsider driving conditions, my travel speed, and condition of RV.

Going down grades, in fact 100% of the time while towing, I have Tow Haul mode and Exhaust Brake both ON.

This^^^^^^^^^^^^^


Definitely on point!

[01tundra]

Originally Posted by fiddleddd

01tundra,
Yes, that's precisely what we were doing! But we were also in a lower gear. When we bought the RV this is what they 'taught' us to do. Either that, or we totally misinterpreted their instructions. Believe me, this has been a costly repair and we've learned a lot, so we won't be doing that in the future. Because of the weight, it made sense that we should use that hand brake on the dash to assist in slowing down for long downhill grades.

So if it is only for emergencies, in what situation would you (should you) use the hand brake? If the truck brakes would go out? I'm trying to understand. Thanks for your help!

I only use mine to ensure the trailer brakes are working before heading out.

If we were to experience some random severe sway situation I would manually apply the trailer brakes in an attempt to straighten things out.

[Poppedclams]

I would think go to most brake and alignment shop the propably would not care what vehicle it is on its brakes

[bigb56]

I'll be on that grade in two weeks going in the same direction, I looked it up in the Mountain Directory and it is quite long. I am used to mountain driving having grown up in Arizona but I am a little anxious about that one, we are only 11,000 lbs but no exhaust brake and a 3.0l diesel. Guessing we will be crawling up and down both sides.

[Cthecountry]

Originally Posted by Rhagfo

My question is Dmax has exhaust brake, why were you even using the service brakes for long low grades?

DITTO, Brake use reduced by using Jake brake and/or Lower Gears.
I do not have Jake brakes, I just down shift and use Engine Compression down hill Grades.
The key is not to let the Rig to go faster than the Gear used to keep at a controlled speed without using Brakes.

[DobeBus]

Let me ask a dumb question, do you smoke? Is it possible that you threw a cigarette out the window and the “ sparks” were the butt hitting the ground underneath the trailer?

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by fiddleddd

kdauto,

Sorry, I gave you the make and model of the RV, but the truck is 2016 GMC 1-ton dually Duramax....8000 lb axles...independent suspension. And yes, my husband HAS been using the trailer brake manually to slow down during descents. He was instructed to do that when we bought the RV. So it sounds like this definitely could be driver error. We've learned a lot here certainly!

Here's the latest. I've been attending an intensive photo seminar while my husband has dealt with this issue. No RV places could help us, and we called several tire places, which couldn't do our brakes. We asked for several recommendations, and we'd hear 'My friend, Julio, does brakes....call him'.
Of course, Julio (or other names recommended) didn't have any online reviews, so it was disconcerting to trust someone like this with our problem. However, my husband is comfortable with the guy we finally found to work on them. He had to order parts from Sacramento or LA.

Here's what was diagnosed. A brake pad had come apart and gotten stuck in the caliper and was rubbing the rotor causing the sparks. At least that is my unsophisticated description of what happened. Unfortunately, both axles were affected. My husband could see the damage. It's quite a costly repair. They are supposed to receive the parts today and hopefully will have us back on the road soon. This has certainly been a teaching moment for us, and we appreciate all of your help. Thanks so much!

Well, you've got the right truck for the job, now you just need the proper driving technique. Never rely solely on salesperson's (RV or truck) advice. Read the truck manual, there's a LOT of info in there. Make SURE the truck's trailer brake controller is properly set for an electric over hydraulic disk brake equipped trailer. Make sure you use the normal brakes if need be.

The exhaust brake on your truck "should" hold that rig at steady speed up to 5% to 6% inclines. It might even hold 7% grades.

Once you crest the hill, slow down. Don't start that downhill descent at 55-60MPH or more. Watch what big rigs do and follow that theme. Read up on "snub braking" and do that to avoid brake fade. That said, you can read about brake fade and what causes it. Most people have no clue.

Expensive lesson that could have been dangerous with an inferior tow vehicle, but I bet you will remember it. Stay safe, brake safe.

[00 Buckshot]

I have a very similar truck and RV and I rarely ever touch any brake going down a grade.



With the tow/haul and the engine brake on when I reach the summit of a mountain I set the cruise control at 5mph less than the max speed I want to reach decending the incline. My rig will go 5mph over what I set the cruise at.


It's going to make a hell of a lot of noise when it downshifts to a lower gear and the cooling fan kicks on but it will not hurt itself.


Learn how to use the combo and your driving experience will be a lot more tolerable.


Good luck and happy camping.

[Parkers2ca]

You would smell and hear brakes hot enough to be sparking. Perhaps you had a safety chain or something dragging the pavement?

[fiddleddd]

My goodness.....thank you all SO much for your advice!!! I can see from the many views to this post that other people are interested. All of your advice not only helped us, but it has no doubt helped others as well. We've learned a lot from all of your advice, and we will definitely be in a better place going forward. Thanks so much. I think this experience has convinced my husband to start paying more attention to this forum in the future. I have asked many questions in the past and have always received great advice. Thank you ALL!!!! So please tell me this......I can't go through and thank every person who responded. Will everyone see my response here?

[kdauto]

Yes, we'll see your thanks, and you're welcome. You can also use the "multi +" quotes when responding and thank a whole bunch of individuals, or quote several in the same post. Either way, most people follow a thread for resolution.

[ItalGerBrit]

Originally Posted by kdauto

Yes, we'll see your thanks, and you're welcome. You can also use the "multi +" quotes when responding and thank a whole bunch of individuals, or quote several in the same post. Either way, most people follow a thread for resolution.

"multi +"? Where do you find that?

[ItalGerBrit]

Originally Posted by ItalGerBrit

"multi +"? Where do you find that?

Right under my nose! Missed it before.

[corn18]

Originally Posted by Parkers2ca

You would smell and hear brakes hot enough to be sparking. Perhaps you had a safety chain or something dragging the pavement?

Does anyone even read previous posts? She already figured out the problem and is working on getting it fixed.