Buying a Used Diesel Truck: How to Avoid Lemons?

[Jshopes81]

Originally Posted by Tree Catcher

Oopsie, I bought a used F-350 last year with the 6.0 engine in it. I have had a few problems but that was due to the previous owner not keeping up on the maintenance on the darn thing. We had two brake calipers go out, glow plug controller, alternator and a fuel line. We hope that we have all the bugs worked out, Now it runs great. We take it for trips just about twice a month pulling our little camper. Now that we have enough truck, I want to get a bigger camper. I hope we don't have any problems with it. Its low mileage as in 106,000 for a diesel and we paid $6500 for it. Does anyone still pull their camper with an older truck?

6500? If its anything more than a base model regular cab 2wd you got a pretty good deal if its not beat to death. Has it had the egr deleted? That should be priority number 1 for the 6.0. Go check out the 6.0 forum on ford truck enthusiast forums. I pull a 17k toyhauler with my stock powered 03 f350 dually. Itll do 6% at 55 on a 95 degree day and not be upset about it. Its not winning any races but it does a pretty decent job.

[theoldwizard]

Originally Posted by Tree Catcher

Oopsie, I bought a used F-350 last year with the 6.0 engine in it. I have had a few problems but that was due to the previous owner not keeping up on the maintenance on the darn thing. We had two brake calipers go out, glow plug controller, alternator and a fuel line.

Those sound like typical wear items, except for the fuel line. If you live in an area that experiences salted roads in winter, I would replace all of the brake lines before they fail !

Also get it to an alignment shop and get the front end checked out. You want to replace worn parts before they start eating up your wires. Same thing with shock absorbers.

How much weight are you towing now and how much do you plan on towing ? Does the truck have a HD tow package from the factory ? What rear axle ration does it have ?

[hillbilly3]

My cousin works at a Ford assembly plant, and when Ford came out with the new 6.0, he ran out and bought one. Less than a week later, the turbo came apart, and took Ford three months to fix it. Under warranty, but........Seen him a couple of weeks ago, he still drives Ford, but it was a gas burner. He said he finally soured on the diesels because all of the maintenance and lack of reliability.

[tuffr2]

If I had to buy a used diesel I would save until I could buy a 2011/12 Ram before they used DEF.

I also would consider a 2011 GM truck. 2011 GM improved the truck. They had an improved frame.

[mokurt]

My BIL has a newer Ford F250 with a desiel.
The water pump broke internally because the plastic impellers failed.
He upgraded to a metal aftermarket one.

Maybe someone here knows which years have this problem.

[Jshopes81]

Originally Posted by mokurt

My BIL has a newer Ford F250 with a desiel.
The water pump broke internally because the plastic impellers failed.
He upgraded to a metal aftermarket one.

Maybe someone here knows which years have this problem.

All of them. I had a 390 fe motor i was going to put in a truck a long time ago and it had some sort of nylon plastic type timing set. I couldnt believe it when i pulled it apart. It was a 1968 motor. I know thats not the water pump, but that craps been going on forever.

[Tree Catcher]

Originally Posted by Jshopes81

6500? If its anything more than a base model regular cab 2wd you got a pretty good deal if its not beat to death. Has it had the egr deleted? That should be priority number 1 for the 6.0. Go check out the 6.0 forum on ford truck enthusiast forums. I pull a 17k toyhauler with my stock powered 03 f350 dually. Itll do 6% at 55 on a 95 degree day and not be upset about it. Its not winning any races but it does a pretty decent job.

Ok I might have stole it then, it has the Lariat package and its a 4x4. Egr has not been deleted, wish Green Diesel engineering did a tune for the 6.0. They did a great job on the Jeep Liberty CRD.

[Jshopes81]

Originally Posted by Tree Catcher

Ok I might have stole it then, it has the Lariat package and its a 4x4. Egr has not been deleted, wish Green Diesel engineering did a tune for the 6.0. They did a great job on the Jeep Liberty CRD.

There are some really good tuning companies for the 6.0. Seems every vehicle has a company that does really well for them. Get rid of that egr asap. Check out fte too, they have a great 6.0 section. There are several things you want to look out for like oil filters and caps, coolant filtration, and plenty of how to write ups about any problem the truck might have from bumper to bumper.

Ohhh, i see youre in california. There are guys on fte from california that can give advice too. Im pretty sure the egr delete is a no go there. I would not leave the factory egr in there. Ruptured egr cooler is the biggest cause for headgasket failure in the 6.0

[chboone]

There are no turner manufacturers that write a tune to delete the EGR. A number them have been fined big time by the EPA. People that have an old turner that update the software lose the EGR delete function. The Ford 6.0 is a good strong engine, I have one, maintenance by the book is the key. Do not try to hot rod with a performance tune, use good quality oil and change it every 5,000 miles. Use only Motorcraft filters, fuel and oil. Do not use Ford Gold coolant only use a ELC coolant. The Ford Gold coolant was the main issue with oil cooler plugging. Install a fuel pressure gauge to monitor fuel pressure, low fuel pressure will take out the injectors. Have someway to monitor the engine especially the temperature difference of the engine oil and coolant temperature. Most owners us Forscan or Torque Pro software on a phone or tablet connected to engine by a OBD-II adapter.

[CharlesinGA]

best thing you can do for a 6.0L Ford is the Bulletproof modifications. The REAL Bulletproof in Mesa, AZ I think. If you don't do that, then replace the head bolts (one at a time) with hardened studs and nuts (ARP studs) install a stainless EGR cooler, remove the oil to coolant cooler and install a oil to air cooler instead, Flush the cooling system and install Catapillar coolant, and this will extend the life of the engine considerably.

Charles

http://https://youtu.be/qPl2UwOePak

Long Long Honeymoon and their experience with the truck problems and then Bulletproofing.

http://https://youtu.be/bvNwtEP6lTs

Two year evaluation of the Bulletproofing.

[Jshopes81]

Originally Posted by CharlesinGA

best thing you can do for a 6.0L Ford is the Bulletproof modifications. The REAL Bulletproof in Mesa, AZ I think. If you don't do that, then replace the head bolts (one at a time) with hardened studs and nuts (ARP studs) install a stainless EGR cooler, remove the oil to coolant cooler and install a oil to air cooler instead, Flush the cooling system and install Catapillar coolant, and this will extend the life of the engine considerably.

Charles

I cant believe you just recommended the one at a time deal. To get all the bolts out youve got to get to a pretty good state of disassembly. Just pull the heads and have them rebuilt and check the block.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by ACountryMile

This may be too much to ask, but...


I have been towing travel trailers off an on since 1975 from large to small, with 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Suburbans. My last one was a 2006 2500 with the 8.1L engine (which I really didn't care for).


I'm seriously considering finding a used 2500 or 3500 diesel truck (Ford, Chevy or Dodge). I'd like to stay in the $40K or less range. I'd like to tow up to 12,000# with some capacity to spare.


We live in NE but head to the mountains most of the time (CO, WY, MT, UT, ID). So, a lot of steep grades at altitude. I want it geared right and love the idea of using engine braking that only a diesel can do.



Buying used, what should I look out for? Which years of each brand have been known to cause problems (engine and transmissions)?


Thanks,
Charlie

The main thing to watch out for in used diesel pickups are diesel engines that have been "bombed" by younger owners. These engines are IMO abused severely, not by hard work, but rather by hot-rodding them, drag strip use, truck pulls,etc.
To get an idea of what I speak, visit any of the diesel pickup truck forums and read the comments.

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by Jshopes81

I cant believe you just recommended the one at a time deal. To get all the bolts out youve got to get to a pretty good state of disassembly. Just pull the heads and have them rebuilt and check the block.

Well, I didn't really recommend it, it was after I recommended the Bulletproof job. You are correct, do it once, do it right.

If anyone watches the videos you will realize how horribly complex and complicated this is and why it is best to "bite the bullet" and get it done before something bad happens.

One thing I didn't mention that I was going to, is to change the crank damper for a Fluidampr unit. I did this on my Cummins and the change is noticeable, smoother and quieter (quieter at idle and smoother through the whole RPM band). It must be pretty good, all Cummins RAM trucks from the 2017 models up have one from the factory.

Charles

[Jshopes81]

After what weve gotten into with the cleaner diesels since the early 00s, the 6.0 just took its lumps first, by the time the cummins had to start adding emissions the 6.0 had already warmed up the buyers for what they were getting into. Any of the 3 from that era can be made to run well dependably for way less than minor repairs on new trucks. The company i work for leases fairly new pickups and some of the repair bills ive seen are staggering. Ya, they run good, but when they need fixed, holy moses. I had to pick my jaw up off the floor the first time i saw a dpf replacement bill. Any of the weak points in these trucks (dodge gm and ford) can be addressed for a bargain.