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Old 05-13-2022, 11:25 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Dave Pelletier View Post
On the brake issue; trailers under 3500lbs GVWR typically don't have brakes and installing them would mean a new axle, wiring (elec) or coupler and hydraulic lines (surge). I wouldn't even consider trying to add brakes on a 1450lb GVWR trailer.

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That is kind of what I thought, couldn't see how you could do that, especially aftermarket, for a few hundred dollars. Axles on a trailer are one of the big ticket items that result in the price, especially on a stripped down trailer like the one here.
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Old 05-13-2022, 12:11 PM   #30
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On the surface it looks fine to me but I would load it up, scale it and compare all the axle weights to the specs.

I canít speak for your area but it would not require brakes in this province.

We also tow with a car. We make a habit of hanging out in the right lane and towing no faster than 90 kilometres per hour.

Enjoy the new trailer and go camping.

Cheers.
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Old 05-15-2022, 02:05 PM   #31
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Once upon a time (about 1985), I rented and towed a fiberglass U-Haul CT-13 camper trailer on a 2,000 mile vacation (MI to CO and back) with a 1984 Dodge Omni. 2 adults, 2 kids in a car with less than 100 HP. I kept it mostly under 50 mph (55 was the speed limit back then anyway). We had a memorable vacation. Worst thing that happened was, the front window leaked in rain and got the kids' bedding wet.

Somewhat older and wiser now (having towed trailers of various types and sizes for several hundred thousand miles), here are my thoughts.

First, the Mazda should be capable. Curb weight is probably about 3600 lbs with about 800 lbs of payload; that includes gas, gear, driver, passengers, and trailer hitch. Assuming youngish kids in back seat and if you don't load too much gear for the trip, you should be able to stay under the limit.

Second, the bulk of the frontal area is the trailer body, so use a tape measure and check it, then add a bit for wheels and axle; you might be a little over "book" spec but if you keep your speed down you'll be okay. Wind resistance increases exponentially with greater speed (it's not a linear increase like one might think).

Third (most important), make certain your hitch weight when loaded is between 10% and 15% of total trailer weight (you can use a bathroom scale to check this), because an improperly loaded trailer can cause it to sway dangerously. In my early towing days I once had frightening, uncontrollable sway with a 4'x8' utility trailer (!) because I had negative tongue weight due to a steel part hanging out the back end.

Fourth, consider adding an auxiliary transmission cooler to your car. But whether you get one or not, be sure to lock out overdrive if possible, because when the tranny 'hunts' between high gear and the next lower gear (you'll see the RPM rise maybe 500 but it hasn't actually shifted) it's letting increased friction generate a lot of heat in the torque converter.

Fifth, if there are backer plates (square metal plates with holes near each corner) behind the wheels, the axle will accept a trailer brake kit; in that eventuality, I'd get some trailer brakes added, buy a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller for up front, and wire the connection with the 7-pin plug. I would not go with a surge brake because I consider controllable trailer brakes to be a very useful safety feature. Not just for stopping, but also to help counteract sway if you ever did have it (let's say some trailer contents vibrated backward during travel, changing the balance?); using the brake controller to apply trailer brakes while slightly increasing speed (counterintuitive but correct) can help bring the trailer back into line. And if you have a deer or a dumb driver jump out in front of you, trailer brakes might make the difference between a messed-up front end vs continuing your happy vacation (after changing your shorts). Stuff happens, be prepared.

In short, don't despair, all is not lost. A few thoughtful precautions in advance and you should be good to go and make some nice family memories.
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Old 05-20-2022, 04:54 AM   #32
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Welcome to iRV2

Yours is perhaps the most frequently asked question here in the forums.

Here's the problem , I don't have access to your owners manual to get info on how your max tow rating is calculated . You'll have to read through for yourself.

Quite often the rating is calculated with only a 150 lb driver in the vehicle , so if you're already loaded with family , pets and gear , the answer is; no.

Will you see others with similar SUVs towing trailers ? Probably .

Did they bother to ask about weights and safety ? Probably not.

Take your SUV , loaded with family and gear , full of fuel and get it weighed , front and rear axles and compare the scale weights the the axle & GVWR on the door and see how much payload you have remaining.
The scale numbers will give the best indication if your vehicle will handle any extra weight .

Many people have never weighed their units. Would someone explain the process in detail. I see the Cat scales at Truck Stops. What do you do? Do you just drive onto it or do you have to go inside and pay for it? What's the process? Do you drive your vehicle on and leave your trailer off? Do you put the whole rig on and then deduct the numbers off of your sticker on your door? What are you looking at? Are there other places than truck stops?
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Old 05-20-2022, 04:58 AM   #33
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H...2016 Mazda CX-5 that has a tow rating of 2000 lbs. ... weight distributed of roughly 1450 lbs...
Yo should be OK with that. Your total gross weight is about 75% of your maximum tow weight. Make sure you don't overload the CX-5 with a bunch of stuff trying to keep the trailer lighter, that's all.
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Old 05-20-2022, 05:29 AM   #34
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Many people have never weighed their units. Would someone explain the process in detail. I see the Cat scales at Truck Stops. What do you do? Do you just drive onto it or do you have to go inside and pay for it? What's the process? Do you drive your vehicle on and leave your trailer off? Do you put the whole rig on and then deduct the numbers off of your sticker on your door? What are you looking at? Are there other places than truck stops?
There is an app for that, though I've never used it and haven't been on a CAT scale for years.

If you travel in WA or OR you can stop and weigh at any closed weigh station for free, they leave the system up and running with a weight display sign active. Not sure about other states.

I take our Trek to the local recycling center/landfill with something to be turned in when I want to weigh it. They have an outside display sign so I just drive really slow onto the scale to get axle weights. You have to do a little math to get to your numbers. Perhaps one near you would be similar.

Virtually all landfills have a scale as well as grain elevators. A lot of them will weigh you for free or a smaller fee than a CAT scale. Just go there or give the weighmaster a call on their procedure.
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Old 05-20-2022, 03:54 PM   #35
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towing

Cars were not meant to tow things no matter what they say the towing capacity is. It is extremely hard on the drive train. That's what trucks are for.
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Old 05-20-2022, 04:09 PM   #36
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This online towing calculator is accurate and impartial, it will safely match a tow vehicle and trailer when you plug-in the scaled weights it calls for: https://changingears.com/weight-calculators/
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Old 05-20-2022, 04:33 PM   #37
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Hello. New member here.

I have a 2016 Mazda CX-5 that has a tow rating of 2000 lbs. I purchased a 2021 Runaway Rouser camper that has a dry weight of 840 lbs. Fully loaded and weight distributed of roughly 1450 lbs. I have a CURT 13315 class C trailer hitch, gross trailer weight of 4000 lbs.



Simple question. Can I safely tow this camper? Iím getting differing answers to this.



Thanks so much



Darren
Yes. You can safely tow this trailer. Let's not overanalyze it. You're good to go.
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Old 05-20-2022, 04:57 PM   #38
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Cars were not meant to tow things no matter what they say the towing capacity is. It is extremely hard on the drive train. That's what trucks are for.
Meh. I would disagree with that. Lots of cars and SUVís tow trailers with no problem. Some people canít afford a second vehicle or just donít have room for a second vehicle. Thatís the case with us. We are a one vehicle family and it canít be a truck.

Our SUV has around 447 horsepower. It tows our 3400 pound trailer like it wasnít there. Never good to generalize.

Jmho of course.

Safe travels all.
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Old 05-20-2022, 06:14 PM   #39
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once in a while i tow my side x side/trailer w/o any trailer brakes with my wifes 2017 cx5 awd and it's close to the 2k max and it pulls it around fine. the owners manual says 2k so it's good.
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Old 05-20-2022, 06:28 PM   #40
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Cars were not meant to tow things no matter what they say the towing capacity is. It is extremely hard on the drive train. That's what trucks are for.


What? Have a source for this? The Ram 1500 and the Chrystler 300 are nearly identical except for the body, and the 300 has a lower center of gravity.

In Europe, the BMW 5 series sedan is the most popular tow vehicle and consistently wins awards. It has the same running gear and accessories as the X5.
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Old 05-20-2022, 08:27 PM   #41
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Cars were not meant to tow things no matter what they say the towing capacity is. It is extremely hard on the drive train. That's what trucks are for.
tell that to every European person that tows their "caravans" with their suvs
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Old 05-20-2022, 08:43 PM   #42
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tell that to every European person that tows their "caravans" with their suvs
Exactly. The power to weight ratio of our SUV to our trailer is better than most half tons can do.
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