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Old 10-10-2022, 04:00 PM   #1
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cheap metal on receiver or??

The images below are from a 2021 Ram 3500 with a factory installed class V hitch. According to the "Towing Basics" document put forth by FCA (Fiat Chrysler Automobiles), a Class 5 hitch should be good for 1800Lbs tongue weight.
My Trailer usually scales out at 8800 to 9300 lbs with a tongue weight of about 900 to 1000 lbs.
I'm using a Blue Ox WD hitch. The truck has a little over 20000 miles on it and I would guess that 17500 of that is towing.
Any ideas what could cause the deformation in the receiver? I rarely hear any slack in the hitch when connected. It's deformed enough that I will need to pry the insert out because it won't slide out. It seems to be just on the one side. The pin is original.
Thanks for the feedback.

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Old 10-10-2022, 06:08 PM   #2
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The socket is too big or the drawbar is too small.
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Old 10-10-2022, 06:12 PM   #3
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Well it looks to me like the hitch doesn't meet specs. But FCA will probably tell you its due to improper hitch pin size or too much chucking. I'd ask them anyway.
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Old 10-10-2022, 06:31 PM   #4
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the Pic with the pin in, looks like at one point the pin was only half way through and pulled sideways. Any way you look at it I would no longer trust it. DR
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Old 10-10-2022, 07:15 PM   #5
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The deformation is consistent with the shape of the slightly curved pin I've been using. There is some movement between the BlueOx stinger and the 2 " to 2.5" adapter that comes with the Class 5 hitches, so I'm thinking that even though I haven't been hearing any clunking, that there has been movement and been forcing the curved part of the pin into the metal of the receiver.
I'll be buying a straight pin shortly. I'm also going to stop by the nice folks at the dealer to ask their opinion, which I presume will mean them pointing the finger at me for some reason or another.
I don't recall seeing this on the 2004 RAM I used to have...
I suppose, I should have purchased the 2.5" BlueOx stinger instead of the 2" one. Too late on that score... Not in the budget to just buy a new one..
Any thoughts about adding a hitch clamp to reduce (stop?) the movement of the stinger?
Thanks for the replies!
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Old 10-10-2022, 07:23 PM   #6
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YES on the hitch clamp, and don't go cheap.
Some have real small "U" bolts ,and you don't want that one.
Ask me how I know.

Mike in Colorado
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Old 10-10-2022, 07:58 PM   #7
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I use these for anti-rattle on both our MH and our pick-up. Very solid.

https://genyhitch.com/product/iron-grip-anti-rattle-hitch-pin/
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Old 10-10-2022, 08:29 PM   #8
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Alrightythen,
I'll end up with a straight pin and a hitch clamp.
Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-10-2022, 09:00 PM   #9
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Probably get flamed for this idea but here goes. Get a 5/8 grade 8 bolt, two 5/8 flat washers and a 5/8 grade 8 locking nut and replace the pin. Snug it down and forget it. Add a drop of blue thread locker if it makes you feel better. I did this on my tow bar setup to stop the movement. The grade 8 bolt is stronger than the pin. May have to go to a bolt supplier to get grade 8. I ordered mine from Amazon. Most big box stores don't have grade 8. Ok I have my fire extinguisher ready!
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Old 10-10-2022, 10:32 PM   #10
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I have a 2003 RAM 2500 that had 86K miles on it when I bought it in 2018. Not sure what it was used for but it had a gooseneck ball in the bed (which I removed) and the receiver hitch, a class IV I believe, is just like yours but not so bad, the hole on the LH side (which is the side I always stick the pin in from) is the one with the deformed metal, the RH hole is fine.

Its not so bad that I am concerned about it, but I do keep an eye on it. I am using a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch but it was this way before I got it.

I'm sure the OP's is larger than 2 inch, probably 2 inch receiver. Mine's 2 inch.

Charles
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Old 10-10-2022, 10:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcbbob15 View Post
Probably get flamed for this idea but here goes. Get a 5/8 grade 8 bolt, two 5/8 flat washers and a 5/8 grade 8 locking nut and replace the pin. Snug it down and forget it. Add a drop of blue thread locker if it makes you feel better. I did this on my tow bar setup to stop the movement. The grade 8 bolt is stronger than the pin. May have to go to a bolt supplier to get grade 8. I ordered mine from Amazon. Most big box stores don't have grade 8. Ok I have my fire extinguisher ready!
While it's a good idea, it sort of defeats the purpose of being able to remove the hitch when I get to a campsite and would like to tour the area. The hitch sticks out another 1.5' from the back of the truck, endangering my thighs with grease and bruises when I forget it's there. At the moment, I haven't found a Hitch Clamp that will work on at 2021 Ram 2.5"ID hitch with the 2" adapter. Still looking...
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Old 10-10-2022, 10:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parafango View Post
While it's a good idea, it sort of defeats the purpose of being able to remove the hitch when I get to a campsite and would like to tour the area. The hitch sticks out another 1.5' from the back of the truck, endangering my thighs with grease and bruises when I forget it's there. At the moment, I haven't found a Hitch Clamp that will work on at 2021 Ram 2.5"ID hitch with the 2" adapter. Still looking...
Get rid of the old 2 inch shank and adapter sleeve and get the proper 2 inch shank. All of the brands are interchangable as the vertical bar with the holes in it are all 2 inch and the same hole spacing for mounting the hitch head. Just find one that has the right drop or rise and length from the hitch pin to the vertical row of holes.

https://www.blueox.com/product/bxw40...-1-2-receiver/

Charles
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Old 10-10-2022, 11:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
Get rid of the old 2 inch shank and adapter sleeve and get the proper 2 inch shank. All of the brands are interchangable as the vertical bar with the holes in it are all 2 inch and the same hole spacing for mounting the hitch head. Just find one that has the right drop or rise and length from the hitch pin to the vertical row of holes.

https://www.blueox.com/product/bxw40...-1-2-receiver/

Charles
Thanks for the link!
Now that I've picked myself off the floor, seeing the Blue Ox price I'll be on the hunt for another brand of 2 1/2" shank. I admit that I'm not looking forward to loosening and retorquing the bolts that hold the head to the shank. Last time I did that, I bent a 1/2" x 18" breaker bar trying to loosen. The bolt torque is at the upper limit of my 250ft lb torque wrench. I'm presuming that there will still be a little bit of play between the 2 1/2" shank and the receiver, even if I combine the new shank with a straight pin. The Iron-Grip pin is promising, but isn't easily removed at a campsite, and maybe that's a good thing. Thanks for the ideas!
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Old 10-11-2022, 05:24 AM   #14
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Double nut the bolt if you are worried about the torque. I'd advise a bolt with all shank ie no thread where it passes thru the hitch walls if you go that route.
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