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guestPacer · 02-19-2015, 12:55 AM

Well I just joined the diesel towing club by way of purchasing a 1998 Dodge SLT Club Cab diesel 2 WD with 141K miles. Though being new to the Dodge club and yes diesel also (not counting driving tractor FB with pup in the early 70’s on west coast only).
I was on the fence toward a 94 Ford IDI diesel or putting the funds toward my one owner (me) 1976 Ford F250 Ranger 4X4 with a 460 (EFI in process) project. The Ranger won that decision but, then not wanting to get in a rush and doing thing as they came up. Example having to clean and line 39 year old custom saddle tanks for new injection system. My 460 loved gas stations. Anyway back to diesels. With a little push from my neighbor and not wanting to fill rushed to go RVing I started research Dodges and came up with the years to look at for more bang for the buck and 96 thru 98 was the winner. Then came the choice 2 or 4wd well I went with 2wd because less chassis moving parts(weight) and towing capacity ( besides if needed my Ranger will be completed in a couple months) and owners service records and miles. And you have to agree the dodge Cummins engine compart is a lot less clutter then the Fords diesel is ok a little less. I picked up my tower for 8k which I thought was a good deal for how high the market will bear for the Cummins power train. The only things it didn’t have was Leather seats and carpet. Yes I fill I found a good deal and yes the trany was gone through and the controller was flashed at 76K. Service records and logs are a most for work / Tow vehicles diesels and gas.

There are some deals out there... somebody has to find them.

1999 Fleetwood Prowler 26H NW Edition

Bigdsl · 02-19-2015, 03:16 AM

Congrats on your new to you Dodge Cummins. You will find a wealth of knowledge, tips, and upgrades on those trucks at www.TurboDieselRegister.com (TDR).
Good luck and drive safe.

Cummins12V98 · 02-19-2015, 08:29 AM

That mileage is nothing for the Cummins.

Make sure the FDP has been tabbed.

guestPacer · 02-19-2015, 10:37 AM

Cummins12V98 yes the mileage is low and hopefully I can double it and take it into its midlife

. Yes the pin block was put in place. All though you can't check the FDP before buying just ask and like the previous owner took a picture. In my research I also read about the Brazilian 53 casting blocks sometimes poor casting and avoid if possible. It was the first thing I looked for on the block. Nope has a 6 on block

Bigdsl thanks for the link

Sense all my service books are Fords I was able to find a DVD Service Repair Workshop Manual 94-98 and 1500-3500 on ebay $7 it's printable also

MnTom · 02-19-2015, 11:42 AM

That is a good truck. Do you have the 12 valve or the 24 valve engine? 1998 was when the mid year change was made. In the Dodge lingo if you have a 12 valve it is called a '98 and the 24 valve it is called a '98 1/2. Either one can have a problem with the KDP. The Diesel Truck Site has a service manual in their downloads section for that truck.

guestPacer · 02-19-2015, 06:41 PM

MnTom mine is a 12V

MnTom · 02-19-2015, 06:59 PM

Then you have what is generally considered the "Holy Grail" of the Dodge/Cummins trucks. You have the reliable 12v with the updated cab. Depending on your transmission I can tell you some easy ways to get more power out of it without hurting your mileage! Also quite inexpensively too!

Cummins12V98 · 02-19-2015, 07:51 PM

My signature is a truck I bought in 01 with 55K and I sold it to my Son with 380K. Did the KDP at 100k. Cranked the power to 300hp 750tq at the rear wheels on a Dyno. Of course smoked the trans and did a full rebuild with billet shafts. Awesome truck looks great with over 400K.

Yep 98 QuadCab 12 Valve is the HolyGrail!

guestPacer · 02-19-2015, 09:13 PM

MnTom bring it on or direct me to look for mods. I have the 47RE trans. what I've read their both hyd. and the RE electric are it's overdrive switch. I'll be taking it to my trans. shop (change filter and inspect after that I plan on doing myself about every 3K)) and I'll ask.
You know when I first decided to focus on Cummins I was looking at a 1st gen 91.5 - 93 or a 2nd gen 94-98 and the winner was you already know 2 gen early 98 I was willing to pay a few dollars more if needed (luck of the draw) and a lot of the work the factory took care of intercooler trans. and this one you can do simple mods with out breaking the bank or getting to radical.

I see that pricing for Dodge Cummins is based on whatthe market will bear. That being said I have a pyro and boost gauge and Ilooking for pillar mount or make one(I'll have to see what their asking withoutgauges included) or just put a cluster in dash somewhere nice lookingtheir just for monitoring. Not like a Rally or race car where you might be turning up the boost but exhaust temps are a must.

MnTom · 02-20-2015, 09:24 AM

The first thing to do is fix your transmission up. That depends on how 'fresh' it is, but figure on an upgraded valve body and a better torque converter. If you went the "full built" route it can cost close to $5k, a VB and converter is about $2.5k. Then you NEED a pyrometer, transmission temperature gauge, and maybe a boost gauge. Then you can move on to the engine. For mild power I would bump up the timing to about 16*, pull the fuel plate and regrind it to a #100 plate, and put it at about 3/4 forward (slotted screw holes), then tune the AFC. That would put you real close to 275 or so HP to the ground (that put mine at 299). Those mods were free since I die the work myself. I then purchased a set of 300 injectors (RV275 made slightly bigger) and that put my power at 365HP and 833LBFT of torque to the rear wheels. If I behave myself driving I have seen as high as 23.7 mpg for a whole tankful of fuel, but normally run 20 or so empty. Towing I get 14+ at 55-60 mph, 12 at 65 mph, and 10 at 70 mph. If you want more info I will be glad to show you where to get it.