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immortl · 05-18-2021, 04:24 PM

Tow vehicle is a 2009 Dodge 3500 quad cab, long bed, dual rear wheel, 6.7l diesel. Trailer is an aluminum (so aluminum framed) 24' V nosed enclosed cargo trailer. I contacted the trailer manufacturer, and they said I could use a weight distributing hitch, but don't drill into the frame and didn't have any other specific recommendations.

I am going to be using the trailer to move household goods across the country, 2400 miles or so. I figure rough trailer weight will be 8000 up to the max 10k lbs, maybe a little less. On one hand we're ditching most of the furniture, on the other, what's left is our 'stuff' - books, kitchen gear, outdoor equipment, guns and ammo, etc..., so density wise, I'm thinking I'll end up on the heavier side as that 'stuff' is heavy in a more compact space, as opposed to say a couch or appliance.

Originally I was all in on the idea of a weight distributing hitch. Then we realized the 24" of V nose reduced the length of frame out front available to clamp the bars onto. But I found some other chain anchors that bolt to the side of the frame. But then, it's not a great idea to drill into the aluminum frame...

So I am soliciting opinions and experience from others. Do I continue down the wdh rabbit hole and see if I can find something that works, or is it not really necessary in this case and I should make do with standard hitch?

Thanks,
Joe

tuffr2 · 05-18-2021, 04:33 PM

A dually truck has the wide hips to control sway. I towed a 6,500lb 29.5' travel trailer with a dually truck without a WD hitch. The trailer did not cause any sway but was more bouncy that was well within my tolerance.

I would not worry about a WD hitch.

I moved my ammo - wow, it was heavy.

immortl · 05-18-2021, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuffr2

...

I moved my ammo - wow, it was heavy.

I wish I could say I had 10,000lbs of it, alas, I need to acquire more when ever the current panic subsides. I have forewarned the wife already, next time we have a gun friendly president in the office, I'm building up a 'rest of my life' supply of ammo and reloading supplies. I didn't quite take the Obama years to heart strongly enough.

Thanks for your thoughts on the wdh. I'm leaning towards forgoing it for now after talking with a few folks.

Thanks,
Joe

xc-mark · 05-18-2021, 06:20 PM

I have a 18' long 7'-6" wide V nose trailer I have towed for 12 years with 4 different one ton and one duelie. Its about 2300lbs empty and it holds 3 snowmobiles , none of the trucks cared it was back there . Up hill , down hill , cross winds , buzzards all without a WD hitch. As long as you have 60% of the weight forward and keep to a reasonable load you will have no issues. I have pulled mine at well over the posted 65mph speed limits , no issues.

move on · 05-18-2021, 06:50 PM

You do not need a WD hitch as long as you don't overload the rear axle, and that is the case with your dually. In fact you will be safer off if you don't use one.

tuffr2 · 05-18-2021, 06:59 PM

A dually will have at least a 9,000lb rear axle. The weight on your rear axle solo will be just under 4,000lbs.

That gives you plenty of rear axle capacity.

JIMNLIN · 05-18-2021, 07:23 PM

I pull a 12k bumper pull flatbed trailer with a 8500 lb cab'd tractor with a old '98 chevy 3500 DRW... crew cab... built for towing 454 gaz guzzler...4wd....4.10 gears. The top of the tractor cab is 12' 2" from the ground.
No WD is used or needed.

IMO a WD hitch is a waste of money for that small trailer with a 3500 DRW truck.

Oh yeah...drilling Dodge/Ram frame isn't a problem if done per Dodge Builders Guide recommendations. Just don't drill the top or bottom of the main frame rails.

Trailer frame ?? I've pulled steel and Aluminum GN/5th wheel/bumper pull enclosed/flatdecks non RV trailers for years. No issues from drilling or welding the main frame rails.

immortl · 05-20-2021, 01:34 PM

Thank you to everyone who replied and shared their thoughts and experiences, I appreciate it. I have decided to not worry about the wdh and anti-sway for now. I never did find a solution that would work, except maybe doing some aluminum welding of the chain hook plates to the frame. Given the info above, I'm going with your recommendations that they're really not needed. Thanks again, it's a great community we have here.

Thanks,
Joe