Equal-i-zer - shank and ball height questions

[SoCalAngler]

I have a new to me 2016 ORV Timber Ridge 280RKS. It has a GVWR of 9600#, My truck is a 2003 Ford F-350 single rear wheel, 4X2. It has a payload capacity of 3860#.

I followed the set up procedures for the Equalizer hitch.

My trailer sites 5.75" lower in front when EQ bars are loaded for travel. This is measured at rear and front of frame (18.5" front and 24.25' at rear). I have attached a pic.

I have read that slightly lower in front is preferred to level.

Using the shank selection guide on Equalizer.com's website it calls for the shank I am currently using.

Front tow vehicle axle barely rises between loaded and unloaded.....approx. 1/2"

Since I am maxed out on ball height (using highest holes on a shank that has been flipped up), why I am unable to get my trailer to sit higher in front?

Thanks!

[keymastr]

You clearly do not have the right ball mount or it somehow is not adjusted properly. Since your picture is not a close-up of the hitch connection I cannot tell if your using the same mount as I am.

Try taking a closer shot of the hitch. You must get the frame of the trailer level front to back within an inch and a half or it will handle poorly. Here is a youtube installation video from Equalizer showing how to do it. If your shank is not long enough then get a longer one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5TtNUxeFWc

[Papa_Jim]

The trailer isn't built properly. The hitch on the trailer needs to be at least 6" lower than what it is right now.

I experienced this with our trailer. Finally I spent the money to have the hitch lowered. That solved everything.

The manufacturer needs to change their hitch design.

Jim

[SmokeyWren]

Originally Posted by SoCalAngler

I have read that slightly lower in front is preferred to level.

You read inaccurate info. When all hooked up, the floor of the trailer should be level, front to rear, using a 4' carpenter's level. If you cannot get a perfectly level floor of the trailer by adjusting the rise of the ball mount on the shank, then yeah, having the front of the trailer slightly lower is better than slightly higher, but not better than perfectly level. But "slightly" means less than a quarter of a bubble on a 4' carpenter's level.

Using the shank selection guide on Equalizer.com's website it calls for the shank I am currently using.

If the ball mount cannot be raised on the adjustable shank so the floor of the trailer is level, front to rear when the spring bars are tight, then you need a shank with more "rise".

Front tow vehicle axle barely rises between loaded and unloaded.....approx. 1/2"

If by "front axle" you meant "front fender". and if by "unloaded" you mean without the trailer tied on, and by "loaded" you mean with the trailer tied on and the spring bars tight, then you're really close to perfect.

Measure the distance of a point on the front fender to the ground, once without the trailer, and again with the trailer with the spring bars tightened to where you think they should be. The front fender should rise between zero and one-half inch with the trailer tied on and the spring bars tight compared to the tow vehicle with no trailer.

Since I am maxed out on ball height (using highest holes on a shank that has been flipped up), why I am unable to get my trailer to sit higher in front?

Probably because your rear suspension is weaker or softer than Equal-I-Zer expected.

The fix is simple. You need an adjustable shank with more rise. They're available. Here's one with a 10" rise for a 2.5" receiver. You probably don't need that much rise, but the excess will just stick up in the air and not hurt anything.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...%20and%20Parts

And here's one with a 7" rise for a 2" receiver:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...%20and%20Parts

[SoCalAngler]

So it appears a higher rise in the shank is needed. I believe I have this figured out.

Now....a couple of additional, yet related questions:

1. What length shank are most of you using? This is the length that the shank protrudes outward away from the hitch/bumper. 12" appears to be what is sold most according to Equalizer. Are any of you using a longer shank for increased turning radius?

2. In order to get to level for both trailer and truck, is safe to start out set up with truck hitch ball higher than the level trailer? This is to compensate for truck dropping when weight is placed on rear axle. EQ install manual Step 3 states, "With the trailer parallel to the ground, measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler. The hitch ball should initially be placed as close to this height as possible."

I assume that initially means the truck can be raised or lowered at set up depending on the various truck's rear suspension. Am I correct or am I missing something?


Hith and shank upgrades:

I am considering upgrading my receiver hitch (still 2") to this one. It increases tow capacity, but most importantly, for my application...tongue capacity to 2550#

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C15410.html

I would also add this shank to my set up which increases my tongue weight from 1400 to 1500# which should exceed what is needed on my 280RKS.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...rt/C17123.html

Thoughts?

[SmokeyWren]

Originally Posted by SoCalAngler

1. What length shank are most of you using? This is the length that the shank protrudes outward away from the hitch/bumper. 12" appears to be what is sold most according to Equalizer.

The adjustable shank on my Reese Strait-Line hitch is less than 12" long. About 10.5". The distance from the pin hole in the shank to the center of the ball after the ball mount is bolted on is still about 10.5".

Are any of you using a longer shank for increased turning radius?

Bad idea. Moving the ball even farther from the rear axle would increase the lift on the front axle because of the see-saw effect.

2. In order to get to level for both trailer and truck, is safe to start out set up with truck hitch ball higher than the level trailer? This is to compensate for truck dropping when weight is placed on rear axle. EQ install manual Step 3 states, "With the trailer parallel to the ground, measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler. The hitch ball should initially be placed as close to this height as possible."

Again, Equal-I-Zer is making invalid assumptions about the rear suspension and the effects of TW. When you have completed hooking up the trailer with the spring bars tight, the floor of the trailer should be level. They are assuming that tightening the spring bars will remove all the sag in the rear suspension and thus give you a level floor in the trailer.

But notice they said "initially", so if that initial measurement doesn't result in a level trailer, then you must unhook, adjust the ball mount on the shank, then hook it all back up again. I'd try to save all that hooking and unhooking and put the ball of the trailer a inch or maybe a coupla inches higher than the top of the coupler to begin with. But it's a guess, and unless you're a good estimator, you may have to unhook and adjust the ball mount anyway.

I assume that initially means the truck can be raised or lowered at set up depending on the various truck's rear suspension. Am I correct or am I missing something?

I think you've nailed it. Just remember the goal is a level floor of the trailer front to rear AFTER it's all hooked up and ready to travel.