Guesstimating WDH hitch set up in a pinch

[mdsjohna]

How bad would it be to set up a weight distribution hitch with guesstimates in order to get the trailer back to my location? When this is done if adjustment need to be made it can be done.


Trailer is currently 200 Km away. At the location there is no way to properly torque the bolts on the head or the ball. I know the measurement of the trailer coupler while level and the truck hitch height.


Will get the ball torqued to 450 ft-lb and the shank bolts torqued to 250ish or whatever the manual calls for locally, at what should be the proper height based on the measurements. Only thing I would really be guesstimating is the head tilt. The manual does give a recommendation or how many washers to start at and adjust from there. So I would just use this number. Tow it back home and if needed adjust it then. Shouldn’t be a big deal I am thinking but wanted to check with you all.



I’ll add truck is 14 Silverado crew short box.
Hitch is fastway E2 1000lb bars
Trailer is Jayco 242BHS lightly loaded.

[Old-Biscuit]

Unable to torque.........??

Tighten the ball and shank bolts as tight as you can
Then halfway (62 miles/100km) stop and recheck

Have safe trip and congrats on 'new' RV

[mdsjohna]

Ball calls for 450 ft-lb and it would be people holding it no vice or anything. Probably could get the head bolts close but it’s still a guess.

I could put the head in the hitch to hold it for torquing the ball but still 450 ft lb is a lot with not having a big ass torque wrench.

Plus I want the torque to be correct either way not a guess.

[tuffr2]

Stop by a hardware store and buy a 18" or 24" or more 3/4" or 1" black pipe. Use that on the end of your wrench to add torque to get closer to what you need.

Recheck and tighten after 25 - 50 miles. If still tight that will be good. If loose, stop and retighen more often.

[L.C.Gray]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

Stop by a hardware store and buy a 18" or 24" or more 3/4" or 1" black pipe. Use that on the end of your wrench to add torque to get closer to what you need.

Recheck and tighten after 25 - 50 miles. If still tight that will be good. If loose, stop and retighen more often.

That pipe calibrated?

Only way you know what torque you're applying with a cheater bar setup is to be torquing with the shank in a horizontal plane and do the math for gripping the cheater at a length that corresponds to your body weight vs the effective length of the wrench and apply your weight until you are completely on the wrench and off the ground. Anything else is just guessing.