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Old 11-06-2020, 05:12 AM   #43
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Another scenario, I’d like to throw into the mix, is a dually, and pull new/used RV’s to and from dealers. I know of some folks that do this, and hang out for a while if they’re in a place that has things they want to see. Then head back for another one. Another suggestion is a dually/ 53’ wedge trailer hauling new cargo trailers and/or cars. Neither are the typical “hot shot” rig, but would accomplish what y’all are wanting to do. The toterhome would be my next suggestion, of which you can do what I mentioned.
RV’s aren’t built for the abuse your going to put it through in a commercial environment. Job sites, loading/unloading, storing chains, binders, tarps (maybe),I’m just not a sure it’s the right vehicle. The DOT will stop you, and that can get costly real quick.
Please understand- I’m certainly not wanting to throw cold water on your idea. I’m only wanting to suggest tweaking the idea in order to do it safely. I drove for 35 yrs, retired in 2012. Saw a lot of stuff on the highway that I couldn’t get away from fast enough. Best of luck in your endeavor!
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:13 AM   #44
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[QUOTE=Diesel-Lover;5509677]Here is a perfect rig to convert into a money making machine it would seem!


https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/rv...225527046.html


I was thinking wow what an earth roamer ready rig with a lift for motorcycle or small offroader rig too!


[/QUTELoad limits of axles and tires are great points, it should be easy to put dually on this rig and perhaps even shorten the cargo/camper box up by moving forward and put a gooseneck by either removing the lift platform or exchanging it for a folding platform type. As long as you don't speed the mpg should be pretty good. Low miles and a nice CAT to purr down the highway. Here is a pic of the back of the truck. No I do not know the seller or the truck just saw it and thought I would share it. Great Earth Roamer build out platform though for the Americas (yes N and S) and Australia and Kiwi land too. Asia/Europe would be slow go and width may be a botheration but could be done with route planning and a compact jeep or motorcycles as side trip tag alongs.

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Old 11-06-2020, 07:35 AM   #45
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We thought about that but couldn't find a reasonable way to make it work. We would either get a luxury sleeper (big $$$) or I would tow the camper with my truck and follow him. A lot of women are scared to tow but it's really not that hard (I still can't back it in though, so we swap out drivers for that). We also thought about my boyfriend doing turn arounds for plants and just doing enough a year to make money for our travels. Have you considered towing cars instead of loads? Lots of dealers need gophers to drive vehicles from one dealership to another, and a regular car can be towed by just about any motorhome. Also, it's pretty easy to get on with UPS or FedEx as a part-time driver during the holidays. My point is that lots of temporary jobs are to be had across the US, freeing up your time to enjoy your travel in between. There is also the option of working part-time in exchange for your site in the RV Parks. My biggest expenses by far are the sites and the note on my truck. Everything else is cheaper in an RV than at a hotel because you can cook your own food and lots of free stuff to do around the US. Figure out a way to cover RV and vehicle notes, insurance and sites and the other expenses are minimal. Don't forget savings for maintenance. Hope you find a way to make it work!
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:49 AM   #46
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You might want to consider a used Four Winds Super C 35SK. You can usually find a good used one for under $100K. It is built on a Ford F550 Super Duty truck chassis that has the 6.7L diesel engine. Maximum towing capacity is 10,000 lbs. However, the maximum vehicle weight (GVWR) loaded (passengers and all personal gear) is 19,500 lbs. Subtract the actual vehicle weight (weigh at truck stop) from the maximum combined (GCVWR) of 29,500 lbs. The lesser of that number or 10,000 is the total weight (trailer and cargo) that can be safely towed. Good luck.
PS - We have a 2015 with full body paint that still looks like new. We pull a 4,000 lb Buick up the steepest mountain grades with ease. We get about 9mpg towing.
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:52 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Bobby F View Post
If you're talking about under 10k lbs, you should easily find Class C's that can do that. You'd want to do the normal beefing up of suspension components and making sure your trailer brakes are great - lots of threads on this forum about both - and you'll want one of the bigger engines available, but it's do-able.

It would be much more fun with a Super-C, of course . . .
NEGATIVE ON A CLASS C. Class C motorhomes are built on F350 or F450 chassis and right from the factory they are already TOO heavily laden for any serious towing. Most have no more than 2000 CCC and full time living with a reasonable amount of fresh water and you are pretty much AT MAX GROSS. Sure many still tow a vehicle too, but remember a Toad puts very little weight on the chassis. Even a 5000 lb trailer wants to add 500 or more in tongue weight and there you go OVER GROSS.

Yes, there are suspension add ons available but THEY DO NOT INCREASE LEGAL GROSS WEIGHT OF THE TRUCK.

We picked up a 35 ft Diesel pusher with 60 k miles on an 8.3 liter Cummins for about 20% the cost of new. It will pull anything and is "legal" with 1000 lbs tongue weight and 10000 towed load. At that ours, loaded to the gills, is still a couple thousand pounds below both GVWR and GCVWR. Plus a career trucker is likely far better qualified than I to deal with maintaining the beast.. and talk about luxury wow. Nice way to travel.

Good luck in mostly retired living.
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Old 11-06-2020, 08:11 AM   #48
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consider an agreement with RV manufactures to deliver new TT's that may give you what you want.
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Old 11-06-2020, 08:15 AM   #49
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you might also look at contracting to deliver empty trailers, cargo , flat bed , car haulers.
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Old 11-06-2020, 08:22 AM   #50
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How to tow and not be so worried about tow vehicle suspension etc

Here is a neat gizmo that will work with that truck I mentioned above as well as any one who whats to tow bigly down the highway. Again, I have no first hand or second hand experience with this right or left but the info is here for every one to evaluate the information and factoids.


https://www.safetytowingsystems.com/



Safety Towing Systems, Inc.


Now Manufacturing the Automated Safety Hitch System.







The Automated Safety Hitch System: The Best Way To Tow!


“It is not how much you can tow, it is how much you can control and stop that is important!”

~ Bob Zagami
Amazingly more effective braking and controllability.

5th wheel RV trailers • Gooseneck Horse Trailers • Flatbed Goosenecks
Pull gooseneck trailers with your van, SUV, full size, short bed or lifted pickup.
– Increases Braking Power and Stability!
– Safer level pulling for trailer stability
– Increases maneuverability
– Automated attachment to your vehicle
– Level trailer yields better horse performance



IT’S ALL ABOUT BETTER CONTROLLABILITY.
Full Hydraulic Vented Disk Brakes –
Additional Stopping Power!

Get Info and pricing
Safety Towing Systems, Inc.
1311 N Grand Ave. • Gainesville, Texas 76240
(940) 231-7604
sales@safetyhitch2.com
Nearly 100% US made components. We specify US made steel & Canadian steel.

Enabling Your Vehicle to Pull the Automated Safety Hitch System™

Video from All Around Performance Horse
Axle Steering Indicator Light – Available standard on the Heavy Duty and Deluxe Automated Safety Hitch System

This feature clearly indicates to the driver when the axle is unlocked. The light will be mounted on the Automated Safety Hitch System so that it can be seen in the driver’s side and rear view mirror.










Auto Alignment


Auto Connect & Drive Away


stems, Inc.
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Old 11-06-2020, 12:49 PM   #51
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How about the Jayco Seneca super c mine is on a Chevy 5500 frame but I have the rear bead room. A bunch of super c’s have a toy ox at the back with a lift to get the toys in. The rooms are usually in the 10’ range some are a foot or two longer. So go for palletized loads and get a pallet Dolly in case the receiver is prepared.

The front area is full rv with kitchen living room and other main room options then the bath are with separate shower and toilet, a door to the toy box. Not affiliated with any of the companies excepti own a 08 Jayco Seneca 35gs with a bed room where your toy ox would be on the 08 toy hauler. Mine is a Gm diesel which I love. Bought used in 2015 with low mileage I’ve added my creature comforts and may add a couple more right now I can hook up my 2020 Jeep Wrangler and head off when I can. I’m owing my setup but thinks of adding an off roadteardrop trailer for remote over landing. Triple towing is mostly legal outside of the Pacific Northwest and the east coast.
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Old 11-06-2020, 01:39 PM   #52
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Sounds like you need to check out the new Cimarron toy haulers,, instead of horses they now make toy or garage or custom,,,, depending on your loads,,, pretty kool sturdy trailer's
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Old 11-06-2020, 05:02 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Tom48 View Post
NEGATIVE ON A CLASS C.
In hindsight, I'd have to agree. I went back and re-read some of the material I had gathered when I was exploring what I could tow behind my C (once I saw that everyone seemed to be saying the opposite of what I said), and realized that several of those authors were including Super-C's in what I would call a C.

So, when I indicated this could be done in a plain C, (cue Emily Litella voice) . . . nevermind.
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Old 11-06-2020, 05:12 PM   #54
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Rv hot shot

Grindstone made some good points , go to you tube and watch a lot you will never get a back haul you cannot stay in rv your pulling although you know they do . It a no win option for making money running your truck into ground and if he does not like rules with dot it no better with a hot shot . Try workkampernews.com .
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:28 PM   #55
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Hauling factory RV's is not a good business to get into. I knew a couple of RV haulers and they eventually quite hauling after going broke. They wore their trucks out in 2 years time and still owed payments on them.
RV haulers only get paid one way and come back to the factory on their own expense, so that $1.30/mile is only $0.65 for total trip. Then subtract your expenses, like food ,lodging, fuel, insurance, truck maintenance, and truck depreciation, this can easily run $.30-$.40/mile. So even at best you are left with $.35/mile as a driver and if you ave 50 mph, that is a $15/hr driver wage.
Then there are the extra expenses, like a $25 hook up charge that RV factories can charge, also dealers require the RV be washed and cleaned before delivery at the drivers expense. Then at dealers, if you arrive after closing hours, you get to wait until maybe Mon A.M. to complete your delivery and hopefully pass the dealer delivery inspection before heading home.
Don't forget to deal with RV tire blowouts, weigh station stops, log books, IFTA fuel tax in each state and rushing from delivery to delivery with no time to stop. Driving 11 hr day after day is exhausting after a while and the brokers will push you as hard as they can, even though they deny it when you interview for the job! They will even claim back hauls are available, only to find out later that they never happen. The few seniority haulers they have will get the back hauls.
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:38 PM   #56
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Might want to check this out.
https://www.legacysleepers.com/
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