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Old 10-06-2021, 03:24 PM   #1
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How often do you re-torque your WDH bolts?

I have an Equalizer WDH on my 2010 Toyota Highlander. I'm towing a 3,300 lb GVWR Braxton Creek Bushwhacker Plus TT. I purchased the WDH along with the trailer back in March of this year, and the RV dealer set it up. I have since raised the L brackets one notch to level out the Highlander a little better. I've also checked the tightness of the angle set bolt a couple of times, but I haven't touched any of the other fasteners on the WDH until now.

After towing a couple thousand miles, I went to re-grease the sockets for maybe the third time. As I was levering on the sockets with the spring bars, I noticed a slight amount of play between the shank and hitch head. Not exactly loose, but loose enough that when I applied leverage, some slight movement occurred. Yikes. Then I checked the nuts on the socket bolts. They were barely finger tight. Come to think of it, the first time I checked the angle set bolt a few months ago, it was also not tight, but it has stayed tight since then. At this point, I'm thinking that the RV dealer did not torque everything down properly.

Not having a big enough torque wrench to handle the shank bolts and the ball nut, I took the hitch to a local shop to have everything re-torqued. The tech said both shank bolts and the ball nut were loose. He charged me $40.

I know the Equalizer manual says to re-torque everything before every trip, but I figured that was just CYA. Is it really possible for everything to work loose like that if it was torqued to spec initially? How often do you all re-torque?

If I really do have to re-torque several times a year, it might actually be worth investing in a $350 torque wrench that will go up to 500 ft-lbs.
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Old 10-06-2021, 04:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wellibe View Post
I have an Equalizer WDH on my 2010 Toyota Highlander. I'm towing a 3,300 lb GVWR Braxton Creek Bushwhacker Plus TT. I purchased the WDH along with the trailer back in March of this year, and the RV dealer set it up. I have since raised the L brackets one notch to level out the Highlander a little better. I've also checked the tightness of the angle set bolt a couple of times, but I haven't touched any of the other fasteners on the WDH until now.

After towing a couple thousand miles, I went to re-grease the sockets for maybe the third time. As I was levering on the sockets with the spring bars, I noticed a slight amount of play between the shank and hitch head. Not exactly loose, but loose enough that when I applied leverage, some slight movement occurred. Yikes. Then I checked the nuts on the socket bolts. They were barely finger tight. Come to think of it, the first time I checked the angle set bolt a few months ago, it was also not tight, but it has stayed tight since then. At this point, I'm thinking that the RV dealer did not torque everything down properly.

Not having a big enough torque wrench to handle the shank bolts and the ball nut, I took the hitch to a local shop to have everything re-torqued. The tech said both shank bolts and the ball nut were loose. He charged me $40.

I know the Equalizer manual says to re-torque everything before every trip, but I figured that was just CYA. Is it really possible for everything to work loose like that if it was torqued to spec initially? How often do you all re-torque?

If I really do have to re-torque several times a year, it might actually be worth investing in a $350 torque wrench that will go up to 500 ft-lbs.
I check mine a few times a season. If interested, below is a link to a digital torque adapter on Amazon. Up to 500 foot pounds. I use it with an 18 breaker bar and it works great on the shank bolts. I compared it for accuracy with my click type wrench on the socket bolts (at 75 fp) and it was spot on.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20743A-...x=neik&sr=8-14
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Old 10-06-2021, 04:17 PM   #3
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Used lock tite on all the bolts, still where I left a few thousand miles ago. I re grease and torque the trunnions however after every trip.
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Old 10-06-2021, 07:20 PM   #4
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I check mine a few times a season. If interested, below is a link to a digital torque adapter on Amazon. Up to 500 foot pounds. I use it with an 18 breaker bar and it works great on the shank bolts. I compared it for accuracy with my click type wrench on the socket bolts (at 75 fp) and it was spot on.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20743A-...x=neik&sr=8-14
Thanks, I didn't know about torque adapters. That would certainly cut down on the cost.
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Old 10-08-2021, 12:49 PM   #5
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A couple more quick questions for folks with an Equalizer WDH:

1) Did you have any trouble finding a socket deep enough to grab the nut on the shank bolt without bottoming out on the end of the bolt?

2) Do you have to hold the bolt head with a wrench while you are torqueing the nut?
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Old 10-10-2021, 04:24 AM   #6
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A couple more quick questions for folks with an Equalizer WDH:

1) Did you have any trouble finding a socket deep enough to grab the nut on the shank bolt without bottoming out on the end of the bolt?

2) Do you have to hold the bolt head with a wrench while you are torqueing the nut?

1, no
2, turn the hitch in the receiver to the box wrench on the bolt head will come to rest on the bumper.
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Old 10-10-2021, 05:01 AM   #7
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Thanks.
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Old 10-11-2021, 05:46 PM   #8
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I just used a standard depth 1-1/8" socket and torqued from the bolt head side instead of the nut. Per Equal-i-zer support, it's ok to torque from either end as long as the other side is held in place.
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Old 10-15-2021, 09:33 PM   #9
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For some reason the bolts of my Equalizer sway bars have suddenly started needing more frequent torquing. Kind of weird but not a big deal. Maybe I need to keep it under 90?
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Old 10-17-2021, 07:13 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mistercee View Post
I just used a standard depth 1-1/8" socket and torqued from the bolt head side instead of the nut. Per Equal-i-zer support, it's ok to torque from either end as long as the other side is held in place.
Thank you, mistercee.
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Old 10-17-2021, 07:14 PM   #11
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For some reason the bolts of my Equalizer sway bars have suddenly started needing more frequent torquing. Kind of weird but not a big deal. Maybe I need to keep it under 90?
Do you mean the socket bolts?
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Old 10-19-2021, 04:47 AM   #12
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Red Loctite is your friend, use it.
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Old 10-24-2021, 12:05 AM   #13
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Wellibe, the bolt that holds the pivoting square 'insert' for the bars. I think they're supposed to be torqued to 70 ft/lbs? Only thing I can think is that I'm trying to back into too many tight sites and that is loosening the nuts.
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Old 10-24-2021, 05:30 AM   #14
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Wellibe, the bolt that holds the pivoting square 'insert' for the bars. I think they're supposed to be torqued to 70 ft/lbs? Only thing I can think is that I'm trying to back into too many tight sites and that is loosening the nuts.
Yes, those are the socket bolts. The manual says 65-100 lb-ft is the acceptable torque range. I know if I torqued mine to 100, I'd have trouble moving the bars by hand. Those are pretty easy to torque, so I'd say just check them before every trip, or any time you notice that the bars are getting easier to move.
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