Is 2021 RAM 1500 Diesel Enough Truck?

[BD104X]

[QUOTE=bneukam;5576295]

Originally Posted by mistercee

It certainly doesn't. But the question 'can I tow trailer X with truck Y?' can only be answered by using the truck and trailer's specific weights and ratings.


I’ll disagree with this, and you missed my point.

A 1/2 ton truck or suv towing a long TT that is within all specs, IS Not safer than one towing a much shorter, and smaller profile that maybe over his payload by a few hundred pounds.

Not saying you shouldn’t be mindful of your payload, but there is way more important factors.

Agree 100%. The OP didn’t ask for the mathematical equation to calculate payload, he asked if it was realistically doable. It’s seems like most of the responses here that are against it are from practical experience and most of the people saying it should be fine are basing that on some math on paper which is based on some arbitrary figures on a sticker in the door jamb... the problem is we don’t drive notepads & stickers down the highway. To those that have calculated it’s no problem on paper, be sure and take that piece of paper with your mathematical calculations showing that your light duty, short wheelbase “truck” with the passenger car tires is not overloaded and keep it in your pocket when you travel on the interstate so you can hold it out the window and show it to the driver of the 18-wheeler that is passing you at 75+ and pushing you completely out of your lane, or show it to the deer that decides he has some important business on the other side of the dark road you are traveling. Hopefully you won’t have to show it to the Highway patrol officer as he/she is helping you gather your lawn chairs, cooler & other belongings that are strewn all over the highway next to your trailer that’s laying on its side. If you want to tow a jet-ski or a small boat and maybe be able to pick up a few bags of mulch at Home Depot, then buy a 1/2 ton pickup. If you plan on dragging a large trailer up & down the interstate, then buy a 3/4 or 1-ton with a long bed or extended cab (or both) and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with having the right tool for the job.

[Dave Pelletier]

Originally Posted by nicky8668

Congrats on your new truck! I can tell it’s fully loaded with bells and whistles from the payload. Enjoy!

I recommend nothing over 5000 lbs. 1100 lbs payload is very little for a 1/2 ton truck. I think tacoma even has higher payload than this. For reference, my commuter civic has over 900 lbs payload.

A 5000 lbs trailer would have about 6-700 lbs tongue weight. With 100 lbs for WDH, it only leave you 3-400 lbs for anyone in the cab plus anything in the bed.

Agreed; anything beyond 5000 lbs loaded is going to be pushing it IMO.

Dave

[wandering1]

Read the tv tow specs.

[aguablanco]

Are you inferring that anecdotal evidence should outweigh the science used by the engineers that designed the truck? The people with the practical experience you refer to rely heavily on the data provided by the factory, particularly the equations that allow us to determine if, and how safely, we can tow an RV. I will agree that actual experience with the truck and trailer are critical in determining the long term viability and safety of the combo, but we all need to have a starting point from which to go forward. That starting point for the majority of us that tow travel trailers on a regular basis is derived from equations. We know, for example, the OP's cargo capacity, the desired trailers weight and approximate length. We can extrapolate a starting point from those numbers. It could get rather expensive to keep buying trailers of inappropriate size until the correct combo is reached. The above methods seem to be the only two ways to get a viable combo.

RichH



[QUOTE=BD104X;5577575]

Originally Posted by bneukam

Agree 100%. The OP didn’t ask for the mathematical equation to calculate payload, he asked if it was realistically doable. It’s seems like most of the responses here that are against it are from practical experience and most of the people saying it should be fine are basing that on some math on paper which is based on some arbitrary figures on a sticker in the door jamb... the problem is we don’t drive notepads & stickers down the highway. To those that have calculated it’s no problem on paper, be sure and take that piece of paper with your mathematical calculations showing that your light duty, short wheelbase “truck” with the passenger car tires is not overloaded and keep it in your pocket when you travel on the interstate so you can hold it out the window and show it to the driver of the 18-wheeler that is passing you at 75+ and pushing you completely out of your lane, or show it to the deer that decides he has some important business on the other side of the dark road you are traveling. Hopefully you won’t have to show it to the Highway patrol officer as he/she is helping you gather your lawn chairs, cooler & other belongings that are strewn all over the highway next to your trailer that’s laying on its side. If you want to tow a jet-ski or a small boat and maybe be able to pick up a few bags of mulch at Home Depot, then buy a 1/2 ton pickup. If you plan on dragging a large trailer up & down the interstate, then buy a 3/4 or 1-ton with a long bed or extended cab (or both) and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with having the right tool for the job.

[BD104X]

[QUOTE=aguablanco;5579333]Are you inferring that anecdotal evidence should outweigh the science used by the engineers that designed the truck? The people with the practical experience you refer to rely heavily on the data provided by the factory, particularly the equations that allow us to determine if, and how safely, we can tow an RV. I will agree that actual experience with the truck and trailer are critical in determining the long term viability and safety of the combo, but we all need to have a starting point from which to go forward. That starting point for the majority of us that tow travel trailers on a regular basis is derived from equations. We know, for example, the OP's cargo capacity, the desired trailers weight and approximate length. We can extrapolate a starting point from those numbers. It could get rather expensive to keep buying trailers of inappropriate size until the correct combo is reached. The above methods seem to be the only two ways to get a viable combo.

RichH



No, I’m inferring that those number are merely a starting point and not a be-all-end-all. As has been mentioned by me and many others on here, weight is only part of the equation. You are actually the exception to what I said as you appear to have a similar combo to the OP and so you are probably one of the few on here the OP should be listening to. My concern is the ones basing it ONLY on the payload specs because I have a lot of towing experience and can tell you that there are many factors beyond just weight that make for a white knuckle ride.

[aguablanco]

Nice to see we are in agreement. Truly sorry if I misconstrued your comments. I second your contention that weight is only one factor, albeit an extremely important one. I have towed various cargo trailers, flatbed and enclosed, for many years and have been towing my RV for six years to date. The main difference between my rig and the OP's proposed setup is that I have ~1540# of cargo capacity against his 1150#. That is a significant difference. It will limit what he can safely and comfortably tow especially in areas with any kind of elevation. I bought the trailer figuring it would work with my 2012 Chevy 1500 5.3, and while it did work I was not happy with engine RPMs and mpg's. Since I have no intentions on buying a larger trailer, and I didn't want a 3/4 ton as a daily driver, I researched the EcoD and have been extremely happy with the decision. If the OP can temper his trailer desires to match the capability of his new truck I believe he will also be very happy. BTW I tow between 5k and 8k miles per year, doing most of my long trips in the summer to get out of the Phoenix heat.
Hope everyone has a great New Year!
RichH






No, I’m inferring that those number are merely a starting point and not a be-all-end-all. As has been mentioned by me and many others on here, weight is only part of the equation. You are actually the exception to what I said as you appear to have a similar combo to the OP and so you are probably one of the few on here the OP should be listening to. My concern is the ones basing it ONLY on the payload specs because I have a lot of towing experience and can tell you that there are many factors beyond just weight that make for a white knuckle ride.[/QUOTE]

[runamuck]

Originally Posted by myancey254

To Florida Rang

Because towing isn't it's primary mission.

Daily Driver: 88% - Don't want a HD as daily driver. Been there. Done that.

Road Tripper: 10% - I like the great mileage I get from diesels. Hemi is gas guzzler. This is my 3rd diesel. and, I just like diesels.

Towing: 2% - If I acquire a trailer, it will be something this can safely tow.

who now..I get 20+ all the time on the highway in my '19 laramie 5.7 with 3.92 gears..not as good as your dsl but way fine for a ccsb 4x4 1500.