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Old 05-09-2020, 02:27 PM   #15
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Inspect the brakes, wiring, brake lights, turn signals and repack the wheel bearings.

If you want to do just the minimum, make sure the brakes work and replace the tires. You can find used tires for ~$20 each.
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Old 05-09-2020, 04:13 PM   #16
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My first question is how is the structure attached to the trailer. Since the house is a foot wider than the trailer, that means the walls are not attached to the trailer. Perhaps the floor is attached to the trailer, and the walls are attached to the floor. Do you not know if it is towable. We don't know how it was built. Sounds like a possible recipe for disaster. Anchorage to the trailer is critical of course.
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Old 05-10-2020, 04:55 AM   #17
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If I was selling that trailer and "Tiny house" I would be selling it "as is where is". I wouldn't offer any advice or anything else to the buyer other than saying Thank You, Have a nice day.
What they do with it when it leaves your property is their responsibility and their problem. If you have a suggestion which proves to be wrong the consequences might just become your problem. Don't leave yourself open for a liability suit.
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This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 05-10-2020, 07:25 AM   #18
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Sell as is where is. Give no advise on moving, it is the buyers responsibility. Walls outside of trailer frame will make it a good plane. I would have real doubts about it holding together. Frame looks pretty old and rusty. Good luck.
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Old 05-10-2020, 09:46 AM   #19
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Add in a head wind, and it could be 80 or 90 MPH wind on the house.


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Aside from weight and balance issues, I would be worried about the beating the siding and shingles will take when running down the road at 60 mph or more. Think of the trailer being in a major tropical storm and subject to an Earth quake as well.

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Old 05-10-2020, 12:20 PM   #20
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I asked a few questions which the OP didn't even have the courtesy to answer. I won't ask anymore but will give one more piece of advice:
Buy a roll of shrink wrap and wrap the whole contraption to keep the wind from getting under shingles and roofing.
Have a nice day.
Lynn
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Old 05-11-2020, 01:38 PM   #21
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Thanks, all.

The trailer has current registration.

I would do a few things differently if I were to build another house - not as tall, more aerodynamic, not parked in my parent’s backyard, etc. - but the lessons learned from this experience are valuable.

The top speed will be 45-50 MPH and liability is with the buyer. We have a purchase and sales agreement and a bill of sale.

I will consider replacing all 4 tires. May come down to cost. I read that 4 years is the expected lifespan for trailer tires. One trailer mechanic told me it would need to go into a shop to have the tires replaced... I can do this myself, right? I am looking into buying tires on new rims.
If you are replacing tire and rim? (Another post). Why would you have to haul it in? Assuming you have a decent jack, sockets, blocks...
You might be able to get tongue weight with a bathrooms scale. (You would have to look up but basically using a measured board to scale from 2nd block on ground. You multiply scale reading by a factor based on distance from 2nd block..

Search measure tongue weight with bathroom scale. One is
https://www.tripsavvy.com/measuring-...weight-2912505

Personally I might be tempted to buy a roll of shrink wrap (like used on pallets) secure end, wrap the whole thing, or secure a tarp. Have them put a small board (bamboo fishing pole 4” higher for trip out. Just to be sure.
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Old 05-11-2020, 03:53 PM   #22
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I somehow feel we have heard the last of this from the O P.
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Old 05-11-2020, 04:26 PM   #23
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Well, here's my thoughts. First, you said you built the house. So, no one knows it better than you. So, let me ask, when you built it, what was the original purpose and intention for it. When you built it, was the intention to have a tiny house on wheels that you could move around your property off-road, or at best to a neighboring property, to the edge of a lake, or some kind of off road location?

Or, was it your intention to be able to travel on public roads at highway speeds with it. Your original purpose and the way you built it will tell you how well it will travel now, how fast it should be towed, and where you should travel with it.

Not knowing the weight of the finished product, I imagine the entire house and trailer weighs over 3000 pounds. What is your state requirement for brakes on the trailer. Does the trailer have brakes.

What about a license plate. If you are towing 50 feet or 5000 miles, the trailer needs to be properly licensed. No doubt, the trailer is titled as a utility trailer. The house on top of it is considered cargo, but does add to the total weight of the trailer being towed. In Indiana trailer breaks are not required for anything with a sum-total weight of everything if it all weighs under 3000 pounds. 3001 pounds and the trailer is required to have brakes if towed on a public road. Of course, on private property or a cornfield, or a trailer titled as farm equipment can be exempt from brakes, as I've never seen a hay wagon with brakes, and they can carry thousands of pounds of bailed hay.

These are the reasons why I'm asking about your original intention when it was built. If it was never intended to be road worthy, I'd re-think what's going on.

On edit:
I just went back and looked at the original photos. The trailer has a 7 pin plug and looks like electric brakes from the view underneath. Just make sure they work.
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Old 05-12-2020, 10:49 AM   #24
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This is an accident waiting to happen IMO..
Take the cash and have them sign some sort of disclaimer.........
Post a Follow-up if you ever come back on here...
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Old 05-12-2020, 11:13 AM   #25
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This is an accident waiting to happen IMO..
Take the cash and have them sign some sort of disclaimer.........
Post a Follow-up if you ever come back on here...
I agree with the accident waiting to happen.
I do not agree with having someone sign a disclaimer. An ambulance chasing attorney could easily make this work against you as it looks as if you are expecting something to go wrong.
Lynn
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Old 05-12-2020, 11:24 AM   #26
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For width purposes it's not legal. The OP states that the walls are 8.5' wide, but there is an overhang at the roofline. I expect this is at least a foot over width, and probably more than that. It's going to require permits to move it legally.
And I agree with the folks who said that if the builder doesn't know whether or not it's road worthy none of us can tell just by looking at a few pictures.
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Old 05-12-2020, 11:34 AM   #27
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For width purposes it's not legal. The OP states that the walls are 8.5' wide, but there is an overhang at the roofline. I expect this is at least a foot over width, and probably more than that. It's going to require permits to move it legally.
And I agree with the folks who said that if the builder doesn't know whether or not it's road worthy none of us can tell just by looking at a few pictures.
I think some overhangs are permitted but this would require research to be certain. Most RVs have some exterior lights, range ducts awnings and other stuf that go past the 8'6" thing. Also, most trucks are well over 8'6" with the tow mirrors opened up, generally well past 9' on the newer trucks.
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Old 05-12-2020, 12:10 PM   #28
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I think some overhangs are permitted but this would require research to be certain. Most RVs have some exterior lights, range ducts awnings and other stuf that go past the 8'6" thing. Also, most trucks are well over 8'6" with the tow mirrors opened up, generally well past 9' on the newer trucks.
Agreed, I know my RV mirrors are a good bit more than 8.5' wide. However, rule makers being the kind of people they are, I expect the overhang of a building is treated differently that the mirrors of a truck or RV. Can't make money off of permits if you don't force people to buy the permits, now can you?
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