MTI Combo car trailer opinion's

[palehorse89]

I am looking at the MTI combo car trailer from Middlebury Trailers, and was wondering if anyone has one of these trailers and their opinion's on the trailer, do you like it, how does it tow, quality of the trailer, etc.
Any thoughts or opinion's would be much appreciated.

[SmokeyWren]

That trailer in it lightest weight version has a GVWR of 7,000 pounds, and thus requires a WD hitch. Heavier-duty versions are available with GVWR of 9,900, 12,000, 14,000 and 16,000 pounds, and they all require a WD hitch. The problem is that V-nose design. A Reese Strait-Line dual cam weight-distributing (WD) hitch cannot be installed, and probably no other good brand of WD hitch can be installed either - because of the V-nose making the A-frame of the trailer inaccessable to install the hitch.

So word to the wise: do not buy that trailer unless the dealer will include a good WD hitch installed, properly set up and adjusted, with spring bars rated with at least the tongue weight capacity of 15% of the GVWR of the trailer. In other words:
7,000 GVWR requires spring bars rated at least 1,050 pounds
9,900 GVWR requires spring bars rated at least 1,485 pounds
12,000 GVWR requires spring bars rated at least 1,800 pounds
14,000 GVWR requires spring bars rated at least 2,100 pounds
And the tripple-axle version with GVWR of 16,000 pounds requires a WD hitch with spring bars rated at least 2,400 pounds. (Those are very hard to find.)

http://www.middleburytrailers.com/files/MSCT_Flyer.pdf

[TDI-Minnie]

Smokey may have a point, but his position (in my opinion) is a little too draconian. With a proper set up, it may be totally fine. But fully loaded behind a half-ton or SUV, it may be an issue.

What's your tow vehicle and how much weight will be on the hitch?

It looks like a great trailer with that V nose and the large front access ramp for your pit-bike or spare wheels/tires. But think hitch weight when loading.

[SmokeyWren]

Originally Posted by Ford 2013 RV and Trailer Towing Guide

Trailer Types and Classes.
Class IV
Over 5,000-lb gross trailer weight...
Most applications require a conventional weight-distributing or 5th-wheel hitch

And similar language is also included in GM and Ram publications.

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by SmokeyWren

That trailer in it lightest weight version has a GVWR of 7,000 pounds, and thus requires a WD hitch. Heavier-duty versions are available with GVWR of 9,900, 12,000, 14,000 and 16,000 pounds, and they all require a WD hitch. The problem is that V-nose design. A Reese Strait-Line dual cam weight-distributing (WD) hitch cannot be installed, and probably no other good brand of WD hitch can be installed either - because of the V-nose making the A-frame of the trailer inaccessable to install the hitch.

So word to the wise: do not buy that trailer unless the dealer will include a good WD hitch installed, properly set up and adjusted, with spring bars rated with at least the tongue weight capacity of 15% of the GVWR of the trailer. In other words:
7,000 GVWR requires spring bars rated at least 1,050 pounds
9,900 GVWR requires spring bars rated at least 1,485 pounds
12,000 GVWR requires spring bars rated at least 1,800 pounds
14,000 GVWR requires spring bars rated at least 2,100 pounds
And the tripple-axle version with GVWR of 16,000 pounds requires a WD hitch with spring bars rated at least 2,400 pounds. (Those are very hard to find.)

http://www.middleburytrailers.com/files/MSCT_Flyer.pdf

I am not sure how or what you are suppose to use for WD hitch setup on these trailers, but they come with the frame mounts for WD...... Here is the dealer web page with more info. http://www.touchofclasstrailers.com/ The model that I am wanting is the:
MSCT 8.5 X 27' TA3 5200 # Axles

Originally Posted by TDI-Minnie

Smokey may have a point, but his position (in my opinion) is a little too draconian. With a proper set up, it may be totally fine. But fully loaded behind a half-ton or SUV, it may be an issue.

What's your tow vehicle and how much weight will be on the hitch?

It looks like a great trailer with that V nose and the large front access ramp for your pit-bike or spare wheels/tires. But think hitch weight when loading.

I am pulling it with my Newmar Mountain Aire, the trailer empty has 310# on tounge, I am guessing at this point, 800-1000 # when loaded?

[SmokeyWren]

Originally Posted by palehorse89

I am not sure how or what you are suppose to use for WD hitch setup on these trailers, but they come with the frame mounts for WD...... Here is the dealer web page with more info. Touch of Class Trailers

I don't see any mention of a WD hitch at that link. So I'll repeat my warning: do not buy that trailer unless the dealer will include a good WD hitch installed, properly set up and adjusted, with spring bars rated with at least the tongue weight capacity of 15% of the GVWR of the trailer.

My definition of a "good" WD hitch includes Reese Strait-line, Equal-I-Zer, Blue Ox Sway Pro. Draw-Tite is made by Reese, so be sure it is a Strait-Line too. The best price for any of those is over $400. If you can find that hitch for less than $400 (including the adjustable shank) from a discount source, you probably have the cheap hitch and not the good one from that manufacturer. If it's a Reese or Draw-Tite, be sure it is the Strait-Line dual cam model with trunion bars.

Even better is the much more expensive Hensley Arrow, ProPride or Pullrite travel trailer hitch. If I were buying a new "bumper pull" hitch today, I'd buy the ProPride.
The Jim Hensley Hitch Story | Hensley Arrow and ProPride 3P Inventor | ProPride, Inc.

[TDI-Minnie]

Originally Posted by palehorse89

I am pulling it with my Newmar Mountain Aire, the trailer empty has 310# on tounge, I am guessing at this point, 800-1000 # when loaded?

I think you'll be just fine.

But that begs the question... why a V nose. Aerodynamics won't be a factor.

[TDI-Minnie]

Originally Posted by SmokeyWren

And similar language is also included in GM and Ram publications.

What does it say on the Newmar site?

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by TDI-Minnie

I think you'll be just fine.

But that begs the question... why a V nose. Aerodynamics won't be a factor.

I am not worried about Aerodynamics, I like the v-nose door/ramp for my Harley, is my thoughts. My door will be on the curb side so it will open into the camp site
And also the biggest reason....added turning clearance at the rear of the Coach of the tight turning and "jack knifing" situations.......I have read on here so many times with the flat nose front end and a short tongue that comes on most of them, the front of the trailer can contact the rear of the Coach in "A tight turning situation" So I guess my thoughts were on the v-nose......for the added clearance when turning. I have a 7x14 Roadmaster V-nose right now and I like the added clearance between the Coach and trailer.

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by SmokeyWren

I don't see any mention of a WD hitch at that link. So I'll repeat my warning: do not buy that trailer unless the dealer will include a good WD hitch installed, properly set up and adjusted, with spring bars rated with at least the tongue weight capacity of 15% of the GVWR of the trailer.

My definition of a "good" WD hitch includes Reese Strait-line, Equal-I-Zer, Blue Ox Sway Pro. Draw-Tite is made by Reese, so be sure it is a Strait-Line too. The best price for any of those is over $400. If you can find that hitch for less than $400 (including the adjustable shank) from a discount source, you probably have the cheap hitch and not the good one from that manufacturer. If it's a Reese or Draw-Tite, be sure it is the Strait-Line dual cam model with trunion bars.

Even better is the much more expensive Hensley Arrow, ProPride or Pullrite travel trailer hitch. If I were buying a new "bumper pull" hitch today, I'd buy the ProPride.
The Jim Hensley Hitch Story | Hensley Arrow and ProPride 3P Inventor | ProPride, Inc.

I posted the 2 photos for you Smokey above post #6 and you can see on the side of the frame rails there are mounts for WD. I am not sure how they are used or how one hooks up to the mounts......this is one of the questions I have wrote down to ask him.
Per the spec. sheet: " 3rd Member Tongue, Weight Distribution Brackets"
In post #5 I posted photo's of these brackets, you can see them on the side of the frame rails on the tongue. I am not to familiar with weight distribution systems, how do these brackets work? I have always seen weight distribution systems clamped to the longer frame rails......but this v-nose is short up front on the rails so this is the reason for the factory brackets, just not sure how they are used....

[palehorse89]

This is the trailer I have right now......Always garaged.....like new.....contact me if interested.....

[palehorse89]

I am thinking I just learned how to use those WD brackets on the frame sides. The slot is for the chain links on the distribution bar, Another member just posted instead of using a cheater bar to hook these chains up, he uses the jack on the tongue and after loaded he simply jacks up the tongue(hooked up) till level or where he wants it to be, hooks the chains on the bars into the chain slots and let the jack down........sound right?

[TDI-Minnie]

Yes, indeed!