Community Forums

archer75 · 03-12-2018, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fvstringpicker

Perhaps I'm wrong

but I'z under the impression that at least pre-2014, both the 3500 and 2500 Dodge trucks use AAM 11.5" axles; same as on the GM 3500 and 2500, difference being Dodge has a tone wheel on the carrier to determine speed while GM uses a vss signal from the t-case or the transmission. Otherwise I think the 3500 and 2500 axles are interchangeable between Dodge and GM in both 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.

I don't know for those years. But again, this does all vary by year. Some are the same, some are not.

Bob_C · 03-12-2018, 03:45 PM

My bad....not a dually

jtcowman · 03-13-2018, 11:20 AM

My head is fixing to explode!

All I know is that in my situation there is no way you can make the numbers that Dodge publishes as the limits for the ram 2500 as not working for the trailer I am considering. If you use the 10000# figure off the door, with a loaded to the gills truck I still have 1700# left over for tongue weight. The trailers I am considering never go over 1500#. The rear axle is rated at 6500#. If you use the GCWR of 25000#, with a fully loaded truck at 8500# and a fully loaded trailer at 12000#, I am still still 4500# under. If you consider the recommended maximum trailer weight of 17000#, I am good as well.
This has been a good lesson for me; to make sure that the advice I give others is based on evidence and not my opinion. When I first asked this question, many of the first comments I got were that I had just spent a whole lot of money on the wrong truck. While we can debate this issue till the cows come home, and may never solve it, I could have avoided 12 hours of panic if someone had just told me I needed to calculate my weight ratios before I buy a trailer.
The good news is that it forced me to go do research, so when I go to get my 5th wheel I will be a much better informed consumer!

archer75 · 03-13-2018, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtcowman

My head is fixing to explode!

All I know is that in my situation there is no way you can make the numbers that Dodge publishes as the limits for the ram 2500 as not working for the trailer I am considering. If you use the 10000# figure off the door, with a loaded to the gills truck I still have 1700# left over for tongue weight. The trailers I am considering never go over 1500#. The rear axle is rated at 6500#. If you use the GCWR of 25000#, with a fully loaded truck at 8500# and a fully loaded trailer at 12000#, I am still still 4500# under. If you consider the recommended maximum trailer weight of 17000#, I am good as well.
This has been a good lesson for me; to make sure that the advice I give others is based on evidence and not my opinion. When I first asked this question, many of the first comments I got were that I had just spent a whole lot of money on the wrong truck. While we can debate this issue till the cows come home, and may never solve it, I could have avoided 12 hours of panic if someone had just told me I needed to calculate my weight ratios before I buy a trailer.
The good news is that it forced me to go do research, so when I go to get my 5th wheel I will be a much better informed consumer!

The rear axle is only rated at 6500lbs if you have a megacab. Or a truck with no bed. And if you have a megacab you have even less payload available meaning there's no way you can get that 5th wheel. All other configurations are a 6000lb rear axle rating.

Your real world payload on the door sticker is probably around 2100lbs. Assuming you have a crew cab, short bed, 4x4. You never said.
Just look at the door and see. I would ONLY look at this number because if you are within that weight you will be within all the other weights. Payload is key. And you still haven't posted that number. Work from payload only. Deducting loaded trailer pin weight, people and cargo in the truck from that number. Done. You're either within that or you're not.

Hopefully your 1500lbs pin weight you mentioned is for that trailer fully loaded?
But then is that 20% or 25% pin weight? You won't know until you buy the trailer, load it and take it to the scales.

It only leaves you about 600lbs for people and gear in the truck which you must also account for.

Assuming your pin weight number is for a loaded trailer and it's 25% pin weight you have about 600lbs left for people and gear in the truck. Meaning you have barely enough available.

If that 1500lbs you mentioned is dry hitch weight, then no, that trailer is not within your limits.

It's not that complicated. Just look at your door sticker. What does it say for payload?

fvstringpicker · 03-13-2018, 04:25 PM

Be sure when you have the combination weighed, along with a full tank of gas, to include the normal amount of change you carry in your pocket.

DukeofDburg · 03-13-2018, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtcowman

Wow! What a wealth of information on this Forum! Many thanks to all of you seasoned travelers who contribute.
I am going to bite the bullet and retire early, buy a truck and 5th wheel and hit the road. We thought about full time RVing but decided that wasn't for us. So far I have bought the tow vehicle, a 2015 Ram 2500 Cummings TD. Next is to decide on a hitch and trailer. The trailer length will be between 28-32 feet long. My truck came with a removable gooseneck ball. I would like to possibly be able to transport trailers for dealers to earn some extra income (gotta pay for those trips somehow!) so I think a sidewinder hitch or a goosebox will not work for that. My bed measures 74", and from what I have read on this forum I would be kind of an idiot not to get a sliding hitch, especially since a lot of the places I want to camp are in less developed areas possibly requiring tight turns. So, am I thinking correctly or not, and if I am, would any sliding hitch from a major company (Reese, Curt, B&W ect) with about a 20k rating be ok, or are there some obvious best choices? Also, what do I need to watch for when we start shopping for trailers? Any suggestions or corrections will be greatly appreciated! Thanks

You do not need a slider with the new hitch styles. I had a turnover gooseneck ball like you. I installed and Andersen Ultimate 2 hitch in a 2015 Ford F250 crew cab short bed and had zero problems with clearance towing a Palomino Sabre 5th wheel. Search that hitch on this forum and other places see the different advantages like easy removal, no grease and lightweight. Yes it rated for 20K. The is nothing at all wrong with a B&W Companion hitch either. Very good quality and that would have been my second choice. Except that aside from above that I already said, height and fore/aft adjustment is much more difficult than with the Andersen that can be done in minutes in a parking lot. Pullrite just came out with a different version of the Andersen concept as well.