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Old 05-23-2017, 08:11 AM   #15
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I never said there are issues, but since you brought it up, speak to your local dealers whether it be RAM, Ford, or Chev and see for yourself. I don't pull enough or far enough to justify the $7k upgrade fee. I also didn't like the thought of having to plug in the truck all winter just to have a warm drive to work. Yes, they are worth more on trade, but no $7k difference and the 700lb less payload can add up.
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:38 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Pcschwenke View Post
I never said there are issues, but since you brought it up, speak to your local dealers whether it be RAM, Ford, or Chev and see for yourself. I don't pull enough or far enough to justify the $7k upgrade fee. I also didn't like the thought of having to plug in the truck all winter just to have a warm drive to work. Yes, they are worth more on trade, but no $7k difference and the 700lb less payload can add up.
Good for you... I wasn't debating the merits of gas vs diesel. Have a nice day.
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Old 05-26-2017, 10:26 PM   #17
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If you've been driving a Ford in the past, why don't you just go ahead and stick with the new model SuperDuty trucks?

The next generation Ram pickup is in the near future, and the old model truck will then possibly show it's age. The new Superduty truck is already completely updated styling wise, and will be looking new for many, many years.

Any of the big 3 "heavy duty" pickups will do the job. But only one right now has been redesigned already.
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:23 PM   #18
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If you've been driving a Ford in the past, why don't you just go ahead and stick with the new model SuperDuty trucks?

The next generation Ram pickup is in the near future, and the old model truck will then possibly show it's age. The new Superduty truck is already completely updated styling wise, and will be looking new for many, many years.

Any of the big 3 "heavy duty" pickups will do the job. But only one right now has been redesigned already.
That is very true and I did consider that before purchasing the Ram. I wanted the Cummins engine so that made my choice. I am somewhat concerned about a new generation Ram coming out and me being unhappy, but I can say I am really liking this truck and I will just have to live with my choice.
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Old 05-28-2017, 05:57 AM   #19
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I don't think you will regret it... they are great trucks.
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Old 05-29-2017, 12:51 PM   #20
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Question for you guys, I bought a 2017 3500HD Denali duramax, I used to have a 2008 2500HD.
I was expecting the new unit to tow much better and it did in some ways, quieter, turbo break much better, but I had an issue with sway/bounce compared to my old truck.

2008 - load E 18" tires, air bags, 2 " blocks in rears, used to use WD hitch but found it towed the same without.

2017 - load D 22" tires everything else is stock right now. Haven't tried the WD hitch yet just towed it the same as my old one to see the difference.

My question is, was I getting sway/bounce because maybe I didn't have enough pin weight, ( only got this on return trip), or maybe it's the load D tires at 22"?
Or maybe I just need to use the WD hitch? That won't solve the sway issue though. Also my new tires are 12.5" wide so maybe they track different on the grooves in the highway?

Thanks for any and all advice in advance.

P.S. I was not a fan of that sway, never experienced it before makes for a stressful drive, also 35' TT 8200lbs dry.
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Old 05-29-2017, 03:45 PM   #21
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Regardless of how well a trailer tows you may need the WDH due to the ratings of your hitch. They are usually rated with a weigh carrying maximum and a different maximum when using a WDH. For a trailer that heavy your hitch may require the WDH.
22" rims seem like bling to me, not really truck type rims. Do you have your tires inflated properly? Does the trailer sit level or is the front too high?
Sway is normally caused by not enough tongue weight or having the tongue too high.
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Old 05-30-2017, 07:45 AM   #22
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Agreed the wheels are bling, I got such a good deal I couldn't turn it down, I still have my factories so I can switch if needed.
I will try my WD next time. It sits almost perfectly level hitched and all tires inflated properly before the trip.

These are the only pics I have of it hitched.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-30-2017, 09:57 AM   #23
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Quote:
Or maybe I just need to use the WD hitch? That won't solve the sway issue though.
You need the WDH for three reasons.

1] It distributes some of the hitch weight off the rear axle and onto the front axle, which should result in improved handling.

2] Most factory-optional receiver hitches have max tongue weight rating too low without a WD hitch for a normal travel trailer that weighs more than about 4,000 pounds, but enough for over 8,000 pounds trailer weight when you add the WD hitch. For example, my factory receiver is rated for only 500 pounds hitch weight without a WD hitch, which is a trailer that weighs less than 4,000 pounds. But the receiver is rated for 1,050 with a WD hitch, and that's enough for a trailer that weighs over 8,000 pounds. Your 3500 probably has more hitch weight capacity than my half-ton, but probably not enough without a WD hitch for an 8,000-pound travel trailer with over 1,000 pounds TW.

3] But the main reason is a good WD hitch includes built-in trailer sway control. Even a cheap WD hitch that uses so-called sway bars will have some sway control, but the good ones have a lot of sway control built in without using sway bars. The good ones include:
Equal-I-Zer
Blue Ox SwayPro
Reese Strait-Line
Husky CenterLine HD

Those all retail for around $1,000 and can be found online for $500 to $700.

Don't leave home without one.

If you've ever experienced uncontrollable trailer sway, you'll pay a lot to be sure it never happens again. The good WD sway-control hitches listed above cost about twice as much as the cheap WD hitches without sway control, or with the barely-adequate friction-based sway bars. And the best in the world is the Hensley ProPride, which costs over $2,500 delivered, and not available at a discount that I've be able to find.
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Old 05-30-2017, 08:47 PM   #24
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Okay, thanks for the info I appreciate it.
I actually have the Equal-I-Zer in my garage just don't like hitching it as i always found it hard. Maybe the dealer didn't set it right idk?
I'm going to try it next week and see the difference anyways.
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:40 PM   #25
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Okay, thanks for the info I appreciate it.
I actually have the Equal-I-Zer in my garage just don't like hitching it as i always found it hard. Maybe the dealer didn't set it right idk?
I'm going to try it next week and see the difference anyways.
I have the Equal-l-Zer and find it easy to hookup. The way I do it is after connecting trailer to truck I use the tongue jack to raise the truck and trailer together until it is easy to place the bars on the brackets. I never use the tool for installing the bars.
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Old 06-01-2017, 07:32 AM   #26
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Ya I might have to upgrade my jack then because I find it hard to lift the truck and trailer that high, it does it but not without a decent amount of effort in my part.
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Old 06-01-2017, 07:48 AM   #27
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Ya I might have to upgrade my jack then because I find it hard to lift the truck and trailer that high, it does it but not without a decent amount of effort in my part.
I had an electric jack on my TT... even with the heavy 3/4 ton it lifted well enough to get the bars on.
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