Newbie question: calculating/considering weights

[chaostactics]

TLR I only have about 400 lbs of weight allowance for gear. Does that sound right?

So I've read articles and watched videos on loads and weights and think I have the concept however this seems like an issue so crucial that "I think I got it" isn't good enough.

My set-up is going to be a GD Imagine 2150 RB. It's got a "dry weight" of 5295 and a GVWR of 6695. So a haul capacity of around 1400. It has a 52 gallon fresh tank, 76 gallon grey tank, and 39 gal black tank. I'm not sure how much sewage weighs but we'll call water/grey water ~8.3 lbs.

The assumption if Im "boondocking" is that I'd start with full fresh and empty black and grey. So there's 432 lbs there. 5 gal or so for hot water heater so 41.5 lbs. 2 x 20 lb propane tanks so 72 lbs. Me and the dog 280 lbs + one guest 180 lbs.

After factoring in all that I get ~1005* lbs.

So essentially I have about 400 lbs of hauling capacity?

Also the main storage is pretty much right behind where the A-frame for the trailer hitch meets the RV frame. Is there a way to hand calculate how much loading that compartment will add to the tongue weight?

*Also are mattresses included in dry weight? They weigh between 50-150 lbs per the Google.

TIA

[Skip426]

Weight on the road is your big concern .

You , the dog and guest won't be in the trailer while its moving .
Once the trailer is parked with all stabilizers down GVWR isn't an issue

Stock factory supplied mattresses should be included in the dry weight.

You have to know where the fresh tank is in relation to the storage in order to consider tongue weight . Only way to know for sure is scale weight.

[Cumminsfan]

If you're nit picking weights that tight you need a bigger tow vehicle or a smaller trailer.
Camping s supposed to be fun. It's not supposed to be an arduous value engineering event.

[easycamper]

Basically don’t stress about it. It’s good to pay attention to weights but as long as you aren’t doing anything too crazy like filling your trailer with bricks, you’re going to be fine in the real world.

Keep your tires inflated and your lug nuts tight.

[Dave Pelletier]

you should never have a full FW tank at the same time as a full grey and black tank....FYI, those are some weird tank sizes; are there two grey tanks?


Dave

[bigb56]

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

If you're nit picking weights that tight you need a bigger tow vehicle or a smaller trailer.
Camping s supposed to be fun. It's not supposed to be an arduous value engineering event.

The OP is asking about trailer GVW and what he can put in the trailer, not the TV. He didn't even mention the TV.

[bigb56]

400 lbs left over after filling with water isn't that bad. Depending on your tow vehicle you can carry stuff in that too if it has the payload capacity. You can also wait till you are near your destination to fill the fresh water all the way. The new travel trailers are usually equipped with the bare minimum of axle ratings and thin frames to boot so you are smart to be careful, not a lot of folks take the time to do that.

[Redfour5]

Originally Posted by Cumminsfan

If you're nit picking weights that tight you need a bigger tow vehicle or a smaller trailer.
Camping s supposed to be fun. It's not supposed to be an arduous value engineering event.

I'm going to second this. I did it for about 15 years and then finally just said, that's it, I'm done and got a 2500 Ram... Now, I don't even think about any of that having 3K payload and 15K max tow. It is so nice not having to worry about what's in the bed and what my weight is vs payload... I bought a 21 1500 Ram still doing this dance and it did great...98% of the time. It is the two percent that can kill you though and that 5 seconds of the trailer driving the truck with a huge wind gust was the straw that broke the camel's back.

Now, I just throw it all in the bed and turn the key and go... And the trailer stays in its place...

I'm not saying my situation is the OP's, but you are right... "If you're nit picking weights that tight you need a bigger tow vehicle or a smaller trailer." Don't be me and constantly test the limits for 15 years.

[chaostactics]

I'm still new to this. I assumed it had something to do with damage to suspension/frame or something. The tow vehicle is a late model Tahoe with the biggest engine and tow package. It exceeds the tow capacity needed comfortably.

I've just spent a lot of my life with a fk it full send attitude and it's gotten me in trouble a fair amount of times. Figured I'd try to do it right this time. Ive got myself another human and a big old dog in the Tahoe so I'm not looking to put too much "loose" extra stuff in it if I can avoid it

[CharlesinGA]

What the OP is referring to as "hauling capacity" is known in the industry as CCC or "cargo carrying capacity" of the trailer or motor home.

With a GVWR on the trailer of 6695 then you can expect a tongue weight of 870 lbs

While the tow vehicle is not mentioned, the TOW VEHICLES CARGO CARRYING CAPACITY needs to have 870 subtracted from it, plus another 100 or so for the weight of a WD Hitch.

For peace of mind, the best thing the OP can do (or any other sensible camper with a new rig) is to load it as for camping, clothes, food, gear, chairs, etc, fill the fuel tank, and head to a CAT scale and pay the money and weigh the rig.

Disconnect the WD hitch bars, pull on the scale, get front, rear, and trailer axle weights.
Pull off the scale and drop the trailer, then back on the scale with the tow vehicle alone and get front and rear axle weights.

The CAT scale will give you a total weight on each ticket. Take the weight of the tow vehicle alone, and subtract it from the weight of the combined rig weight. This will give you the trailer weight. Then take the trailer axle weight and subtract it from the total trailer weight you just calculated, and what remains is your tongue weight.

Charles