Newbie Tow Vehicle ? - F150 vs. Expedition EL

[Ransom07]

I work for a ford dealer and would not recommend the 5.4 especially the 3v. As stated multiple times they are very underpowered. The 5.0 would be a much better choice if you are against the ecoboost. As far as towing with an Expedition goes they will tow good. My TT is 6900lbs dry and is 34.9 end to end and I don’t have any issues and I use the fastway e2 hitch.

[SmokeyWren]

Originally Posted by Col Tom

Dealer offers 3 different hitches, recommends Fastway e2 which an experienced friend say is comparable to the Equalizer 4P.

Not comparable. The 2P has 2-point sway control. The 4P has 4. 4 is much better than 2.

The dealer also offers the Equalizer. Not sure yet if there is a cost difference.

The Equal-I-Zer 4p rated for 1,000 # max TW will cost you more than the FastWay 2P with trunnion bars rated for 1,000 # max TW. Insist on trunnion bars. Std on Equal-I-Zer and Blue Ox but optional on Fastway and Reese Strait-Line.

For example:

https://www.amazon.com/Fastway-Trunn...1583674&sr=8-2 = $459


https://www.amazon.com/10K-Equal-i-z...1583326&sr=8-1 =677.95

Yep. The good stuff costs more. But worth it.

[SailorSam]

Are you planning on towing thru any mountains? Between the 5.0 and 3.5, you would be much happier with the 3.5. The turbo will maintain power at altitude, the higher you go, the more the 3.5 will struggle. As was noted, the 3.5 has more torque at lower RPMs.
Downhill, if you start at a reasonable speed, the 3.5 will do an adequate job of controlling speed with appropriate brake applications.

I've towed my 7k lb trailer up over 8000 ft and haven't been concerned about it slowing down.
Reese Straight-Line, Equal-I-Zer 4P, and Blue Ox SwayPro are very good hitches. For the best stability, get a Propride. PP is a lot more expensive but I think worth the cost. >99% of folks who convert to a PP from one of the above agree.

A couple of seldom discussed benefits of a PP:
1. If you get the F150, you will be able to drop your tailgate while hitched, you may not be able to with other hitches.
2. Safer to apply WD. WD is applied via a screw jack which can be done with a battery drill/driver. No worry about the WD bars snapping down when un-hitcing, a friend busted his toe this way before switching.
3. Infinite WD adjustment - not limited by the increment of each chain link.
4. WD bars are permanently attached, no need to store them somewhere.
As a side note, a PP will NOT significantly impact your tongue weight. People who have switched report that the difference usually is between +/- 20 lbs.

[Col Tom]

I chose the F-150 with 5.0L Coyote engine. The 3.5 twin turbo is the better choice as far as the tow numbers go but have had family members who have experienced service issues with that motor. There will be limited mountains in our treks between Wisconsin and South Carolina. Really appreciate all the input and advice. Especially on hitches. This is our third travel trailer, first 13', then 17', now 20'. So I'm sure I will be moving on to some type of 3/4 ton at some point in the future. For now this seems to be a good fit for us and gives me a comfort zone.

[SmokeyWren]

Originally Posted by Col Tom

I Really appreciate all the input and advice. Especially on hitches.

I agree with SailorSam that the Hensley ProPride hitch is the best TT hitch available. In fact, that's what I have to tow my TT.
https://www.propridehitch.com/propri...d-529498fac3b2

I didn't mention the ProPride nn my previous post because it costs about 4 times as much as an Equal-I-Zer. The Equal-I-Zer/Blue Ox/Strait-Line will control about 99 percent of all sway-causing conditions. The ProPride increases that to about 99.9 percent. If you have ever had uncontrollable trailer sway, you'll pay a lot to be sure it never happens again.

One extreme sway-causing condition would be a curvy hilly two-lane highway in a windy light rain, then unexpectedly you see a big piece of junk-iron in your lane with an 18-wheeler barreling down on you in the other lane. So you swerve hard to the right to avoid the obstruction in your lane, then swerve back into your lane after you pass the obstruction. When that happens, you'll likely go into a severe uncontrollable trailer sway that can result in your rig being upside down on the road or barrow ditch.

I tow my TT with a $2,845 ProPride. It's wonderful! But it's a bugger-dog-bear to move from one trailer to another. So I tow my cargo trailer with a $600 Reese Strait-Line. I've never had a sway problem with the Strait-Line, but I try hard to avoid extreme sway-causing conditions when towing the cargo trailer.

If you decide to go with the Fastway, they have two versions = round bar and trunnion bar. The round bars go down from the head, reducing ground clearance. The trunnion bars go back from the head. With the round bars, you will probably be dragging the bottom of the round bars on the ground when you cross dips and ditches, even exiting the highway to enter a convenience store or truck stop. No problem with the trunnion bars. So pay extra to get the trunnion bars instead of the round bars. Equal-I-Zer and Blue Ox don't even offer the cheaper round bars. But Reese Strait-Line and Fastway E2 do. Don't go cheap. Get the trunnion bars.

And BTW, the ProPride has trunnion bars.

[HDGoose]

Originally Posted by Mtn. Lion

Do you have thoughts of getting another trailer some day? Get a F-350 Super Cab 10-speed w/4.30 rear and the 7.3L big block pushrod V8 Godzilla engine to support future upgrades, if you may upgrade later .

But, I have been told that towing anything other than a TT needs an MDT!

[SmokeyWren]

Originally Posted by HDGoose

But, I have been told that towing anything other than a TT needs an MDT!

I pretty much agree, provided you mean a small TT with GVWR less than 6,000 pounds. Payload is the problem. You do not want to exceed the GVWR of your tow vehicle. Most half-ton pickups do not have the payload capacity to handle the weight of a family and their stuff plus the hitch weight of a 5er or gooseneck trailer, or even the tongue weight of a Big TT, without exceeding the GVWR (and payload capacity) of the pickup.

There are exceptions. There are a couple of very small 5ers available with GVWR less than 6,000 pounds. And there is at least one model of pickup with payload capacity over 2,000 pounds - the "Unicorn" F-150 with heavy duty payload package (HDPP). But dealers don't stock the HDPP pickups, so you have to plan ahead and order it, then wait two months or longer for delivery.

[tuffr2]

HDGoose - yep, actually you need a HDT...ugh. Why do you say such things?

[vroom_vroom]

The 5.4 3v is useless in its oem form. The one I had I locked out the phasers, tuned it and couldn’t believe the difference. It’s was a legit truck motor with all its torque on the low end.

[boomersooner]

3.5L Ecobeast is the way to go. Pulled 6500lb TT and never knew it was there.

[Mtn. Lion]

Originally Posted by HDGoose

But, I have been told that towing anything other than a TT needs an MDT!

But the naturally aspirated Godzilla big block 443CI 7.3L pushrod V8 just came out. Move over MDT. Godzilla is a game changer. Go, go, Godzilla!