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Old 09-20-2022, 08:58 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Jay D. View Post
"putting in a set of Timbren bump stops to help with sag" i would research useing air bags they are adjustible and have a smoother ride. when not towing you can let the air out for a comfortable ride and as you add weight you can add air to compensate. the Timbren is just a block of rubber.
Jay D.
Like the Sumosprings, that block of rubber doesn't contact anything below it unless there is enough load applied to rear of vehicle. So it wouldn't affect anything unloaded.
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:01 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay D. View Post
"putting in a set of Timbren bump stops to help with sag" i would research useing air bags they are adjustible and have a smoother ride. when not towing you can let the air out for a comfortable ride and as you add weight you can add air to compensate. the Timbren is just a block of rubber.
Jay D.
Well, not quite "just a block of rubber". They do comress and deform a whole lot more than simple bump stops. I have some front and rear of my old tow big, the Suburban. In front, they help support the 1100lb plow blade 5-6 months a year. They become part of the suspension, and you honestly cannot feel either front or rear causing a stiffer or rougher riding vehicle due to the how they are made.
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Old 09-22-2022, 04:13 PM   #45
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Thanks , I did some research and I should be right around 5000lb empty and 6000lb with my bike, the Toy Hauler is basically a 28' cargo trailer and the dry weight of a 28' Haulmark is 4000lb , and has the same 9990 GVWR of the trailer I bought...I'm adding another 1000lb for the front 1/4 of the trailer being a camper..

I'm installing a set of Timbren bump stops just for that reason, they will not engage until the truck has a load , otherwise they stay about an inch and a half from the frame there for they are not supposed to effect the factory ride.....
I've been there and done that. Those Timbren bump stops will definitely make that truck ride stiffer. An inch of space is not nearly enough.
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Old 09-22-2022, 05:36 PM   #46
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I've been there and done that. Those Timbren bump stops will definitely make that truck ride stiffer. An inch of space is not nearly enough.
Why would you say that's not enough? He has 1'' of air between the suspension and the Timbrens. He probably still has a good 4" to compress depending on the vehicle. The Timbrens compress a whole lot, they are not stiff bump stops.
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Old 09-23-2022, 08:10 PM   #47
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I've been there and done that. Those Timbren bump stops will definitely make that truck ride stiffer. An inch of space is not nearly enough.
Not true. They only contact the suspension from a load.
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Old 09-23-2022, 11:01 PM   #48
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I went with the Timbrens because I'm only going to be towing this trailer from point A to B to C and there it will stay, I didn't want anything that would change the factory ride while not in tow, the Timbrens do not, they do not touch the frame when not in tow. When I put the trailer on the truck dropped a good 4" but it stayed level with no noticeable squat what so ever and the ride wasn't bad at all, definitely stiff but hey that what you get with 600lb of TW riding on a couple of steel springs...
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Old 09-24-2022, 09:25 AM   #49
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I went with the Timbrens because I'm only going to be towing this trailer from point A to B to C and there it will stay, I didn't want anything that would change the factory ride while not in tow, the Timbrens do not, they do not touch the frame when not in tow. When I put the trailer on the truck dropped a good 4" but it stayed level with no noticeable squat what so ever and the ride wasn't bad at all, definitely stiff but hey that what you get with 600lb of TW riding on a couple of steel springs...
Just noticed your location. Are you guys at Lake Winnipesaukee (spelling ok?). We camped at Gunstock late July with some friends who are seasonal there. Nice area.

I think you did good with the Timbrens, they work well. I have 2 sets on my truck that are going on 20 years old now.
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Old 09-24-2022, 10:59 PM   #50
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Yes I live here full time , I'm about 5 minutes from Gunstock, have friends that keep their Class A there for the summer and head South for the winter... Yeah the Timbrens did exactly what I'd hoped but definitely need a bigger truck if I want to do any serious traveling , right now the Toy Hauler is being used to stay in and keep my tools in while I build a log cabin up North. When done I'll step up to a 350 most likely..
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Old 09-24-2022, 11:25 PM   #51
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This online towing calculator is accurate and removes all the chest-beating bravado from the decision-making process.
Please note some blocks require actual weights, not information from a sticker or decal.
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Old 09-25-2022, 07:51 PM   #52
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Payload matters

It is tiresome trying to provide good advice based on experience and wisdom, along with some mistakes I have learned from, (nobody is perfect) only to be mocked.

So basically, this guy is pulling MORE weight than I am with a Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel and some of you posting say "you'll be fine". Ugh. I just returned home from a 2600 mile trip and guess what I saw yesterday along I-10? A 22 ft travel trailer turned on it's side and destroyed, with a badly dented half ton truck/might even have been a Chevy Colorado facing the wrong way down the road. Everybody seemed shaken up, but otherwise ok. Tow truck was trying to get the trailer upright and on a flat bed.

It's not hard to understand basic towing physics: if you exceed your payload capacity bad things CAN happen. Notice I didn't say WILL, because guaranteed there will be some haters who will say I'm crazy, I'm the tow police, and they regularly exceed payload and nothing happened to them.

Yet.

Payload is probably the most important number to understand, even though most people ONLY focus on towing capacity. I think payload is more
important to know than towing capacity. I highly, highly, highly recommend you take the time (about 10 mins) to watch an excellent video at www.keepyourdaydream.com/payload and then using the information you will learn from the video, get your VIN and plug into the Ford website. You will then know the payload capacity of YOUR specific truck. BTW, Airbags, WDH, etc have NOTHING to do with increasing your payload.

I truly hope you will take the time to watch this video. Don't trust your safety or your families safety to some random strangers here who pay no price for being wrong.

Good luck and happy RVing
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Old 09-26-2022, 10:24 AM   #53
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If you're on the road very much; you will see all sizes of RV's wrecked.
Indeed, because most likely payload was exceeded. Most people exceed their payload and assume they are ok because they are under the tow capacity. Bad move. They're the ones on the side of the road wondering what happened. Like the poor folks i saw the other day on I-10 with a trashed travel trailer being pulled by what looked like a Chevy Colorado- hard to tell because the side was badly dented from the trailer jack knifing on the truck. I'm pretty sure the vast majority have never put their rig and truck on a CAT scale. I towed for years with a Ram 1500 pulling a 22 ft travel trailer. Fully loaded the trailer was at about 75% rated tow capacity of the truck with almost 800 pounds of payload to spare. I confirmed this on a CAT scale and never had any problems. My families safety is worth knowing these numbers.
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Old 09-27-2022, 09:18 AM   #54
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Any trailer over 5000 LBS needs to be pulled with a Peterbilt, anything smaller and you are going to crash into a church bus full of nuns in a fiery inferno.

Oh heck now I sound like the towing "experts" online
LOL... JD says X2.
I'll give you a X3.

One big problem one gets on a rv website is advise we get from folks with good intentions where payload is concerned.
They think the truck mfg gvwr based payload sticker is the holy grail....when its not.
Reason is some look at those payload numbers in term of how much hitch weight or a truck camper from a rv trailer their truck can carry.

Examples;
one F150HDPP owner says his truck had a 2922 lb payload sticker. The HDPP comes with a 4800 rawr. He says the truck has a 2460 lb scaled rear axle weight which leaves the truck rear axle with a max 2340 lb payload before exceeding a tire/whee/rear suspension/axle assy ratings.
He though the trucks gvwr based 2922 lb payload sticker too president over the trucks rear axle and planed on using it for his trailers hitch weight.

One new gen F350 srw 6.7 diesel owner says his truck has a 44xx lb payload sticker and planned on a truck camper that some owners said weighed around 4000 lbs loaded. He actually thought he could carry 44xx in the bed . Well his truck had a 7230 rawr. His rear axle CAT weight was 3480 lbs leaving it with 3750 lb for a max axle payload.

I can go on and on with 1/2...3/4... one ton srw trucks from Ford/Ram/and the GM twins with examples of newer gen high gvwr trucks payload stickers that can over load the trucks rawr numbers.

Just be safe out on the hiway and don't overload axles/tires/wheels or spring packs/hitch ratings. That way everyone can safely arrive at their destination.
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Old 09-27-2022, 10:05 AM   #55
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LOL... JD says X2.
I'll give you a X3.

One big problem one gets on a rv website is advise we get from folks with good intentions where payload is concerned.
They think the truck mfg gvwr based payload sticker is the holy grail....when its not.
Reason is some look at those payload numbers in term of how much hitch weight or a truck camper from a rv trailer their truck can carry.

Examples;
one F150HDPP owner says his truck had a 2922 lb payload sticker. The HDPP comes with a 4800 rawr. He says the truck has a 2460 lb scaled rear axle weight which leaves the truck rear axle with a max 2340 lb payload before exceeding a tire/whee/rear suspension/axle assy ratings.
He though the trucks gvwr based 2922 lb payload sticker too president over the trucks rear axle and planed on using it for his trailers hitch weight.

One new gen F350 srw 6.7 diesel owner says his truck has a 44xx lb payload sticker and planned on a truck camper that some owners said weighed around 4000 lbs loaded. He actually thought he could carry 44xx in the bed . Well his truck had a 7230 rawr. His rear axle CAT weight was 3480 lbs leaving it with 3750 lb for a max axle payload.

I can go on and on with 1/2...3/4... one ton srw trucks from Ford/Ram/and the GM twins with examples of newer gen high gvwr trucks payload stickers that can over load the trucks rawr numbers.

Just be safe out on the hiway and don't overload axles/tires/wheels or spring packs/hitch ratings. That way everyone can safely arrive at their destination.
I agree that you need to look at ALL things; Payload (real payload, GVWR minus truck weight), GAWR's, Tire max load ratings, etc. I think the important point is that payload ratings are spread between the front AND rear axles so depending on the load you can overload one axle or the other and still be within GVWR. That said, I don't know how likely it is that most trucks can overload your rear GAWR and still be under GVWR.

I haven't had the time to weigh my new truck yet (so far under capacity that it's just for interests' sake with my tt) but for eg. here are the weights from my last truck;

from when I weighed my truck;

- Front axle; 4730 lbs (GAWR 5200lbs)
- Rear axle; 3608 lbs (GAWR 9350 lbs)
- Total GVW; 8338 lbs (including me, a full tank of diesel and misc. "stuff" in the interior)
- GVWR is 12,000 lbs

Real payload is just under 4,000 lbs to be within the ratings though the RAWR has 5,742 lbs capacity before being overloaded.

Tires are rated at 3085 lbs single so 6170 lbs on the front axle and 2835 lbs dual so 11,340 lbs on the rear. ....tires are clearly not part of any determining factor for me


In comparison, my new F350 DRW has a listed payload of approx. 5500 lbs, GVWR is 14,000 lbs and it has a GAWR of 9,900 lbs

I'd also point out that while these threads tend to devolve into "half ton" vs. "HD" threads, any and all trucks can be overloaded - it's about knowing what the safe and appropriate load is for YOUR truck regardless of size. I have 9 trucks from an F150 2wd to a couple DRW diesels.


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Old 09-29-2022, 08:56 AM   #56
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Payload, along with all other numbers matter

A simple Google search about what can happen when you exceed payload capacity: When you exceed the truck payload capacity, it can decrease the stability and control over the steering wheel, cause failure of brakes, reduce braking distance and make the suspension components faulty.

Is payload the only number that matters? Of course not. There are a bunch of other numbers that matter, along with knowing just how much weight is transferred from the rig to your truck. A 5er transfers MUCH more weight to the rear axle of the truck than a travel trailer. Which is a tough lesson I learned. I upgraded from a 1500 to a 2500 thinking I'd be ok for a 5er. Not so much. I far exceed my trucks payload with a 5er than a travel trailer. So I settled for a 29 ft travel trailer fully loaded to about 9000 lbs and based on the CAT scale, I'm well within my trucks limits and have had no problems up or down hills. All I'm saying is people focus too much on "tow capacity" and ignore everything else. That is a recipe for disaster. People are more likely to exceed their trucks payload before reaching the max tow capacity. Thats not good. Good luck to you.
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