Community Forums

Mknmike · 10-11-2018, 06:25 AM

Hi:
First off, I I’ll say I need better pictures. Actually it seems I get an error any time I try to upload one w Tapatalk. I will try, but until I can get some uploaded, words will have to do.

I bought a Holiday Rambler Statesmm 1000 Alumaframe travel trailer for $400 to use as some temporary junk storage that I am able to move on my own, unlike a shipping container. To bring it home at 20 mph with my 2006 Honda Ridgeline, I took all the tools from my trunk and put all the weight in the back of the Holiday Rambler because the tongue weight seems way too high for my Ridgeline. It was only a about 5-10 miles tops.

Now it’s time to load this thing up AND move it. I think I need a real weight distributing hitch, but I am not excited about the $250 investment. I already spent over $200 on an RF Tekonsha brake controller ad the 7-pin setup stuff needed. I know the $250 for a WD will be a long term investment, but not surely one I will use for anything else.

So I’m wondering what the heck theses bars with chains are attached to the A-frame of my holiday rambler. The bars can swing down from the A frame and back up towards the ball hitch. They have chains on them, making me think that they could attach to the hitch chain connectors on my hitch. But they don’t reach. Also, if I was able to attach them, they would get too tight going around turns. They don’t have the slide functionality that pivoting bars on the tow hitch should have. Maybe there’s another piece to the puzzle for the truck side that is missing.

This post is pure curiosity, yes with maybe the hope of saving $250. Maybe I will rent or borrow a bigger truck to move the trailer.

I will see if I can upload pics.

keymastr · 10-11-2018, 06:50 AM

If that is an old trailer from the 70s it is WAY too heavy for your Ridgeline even empty, and loading it with stuff to store will make it even worse, weight distribution or not.

The trailers own suspension also may be worn out and not able to carry the weight of itself properly. The bushings used in trailer suspensions often only last 10,000 miles. And then there are the tires to think of. Trailers often have tires that are maxxed out with just the weight of the trailer, counting on using the tongue weight to give a couple hundred pounds of safety margin. And even then they blow out frequently. If yours are more than 7 years old they may not last even a short trip if you add a bunch of weight.

Most trailers have 1000 pounds or less of cargo weight rating so depending on what you plan to carry it could be a bad idea. The Ridgeline is definitely a bad idea. I don't think Honda even suggests using a WD hitch and they do not have enough cargo capacity to carry the tongue weight.

SWO Vette · 10-11-2018, 06:53 AM

If you are going only a few miles get a friend with a regular pickup to move it for you. A half ton ought to move it.

Mknmike · 10-11-2018, 07:11 AM

The RL and my hitch for it is rated for 500 lbs tongue load and 5000 lbs towing. The Holiday rambler is indeed slightly over 5000 lbs. Yes it is too heavy for my RL. Got it. Cool.

I’m trying to understand what this WD setup on the trailer is though. Tats what I care about it at the moment.

Mknmike · 10-11-2018, 07:23 AM

Can you guys see the bars hanging down from the A-frame of the trailer? If not swung up out of the way, they would drag on the ground. They have chains on the dangling ends. The bars have a pivot point that makes them parallel with the a frame bar when all the way up either forward or backwards.

I wonder if they could be attached to the chain hooks on the hitch. I guess if the chains are long enough, the trailer would be able to turn a bit.

Just curious WTH these are. I can’t find any WD system like this anywhere on the web.

DobeBus · 10-11-2018, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mknmike

Can you guys see the bars hanging down from the A-frame of the trailer? If not swung up out of the way, they would drag on the ground. They have chains on the dangling ends. The bars have a pivot point that makes them parallel with the a frame bar when all the way up either forward or backwards.

I wonder if they could be attached to the chain hooks on the hitch. I guess if the chains are long enough, the trailer would be able to turn a bit.

Just curious WTH these are. I can’t find any WD system like this anywhere on the web.

Those are the weight fist bars from an old set up. The bars would go into the hitch and chains would pull up on hitch

Mknmike · 10-11-2018, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DobeBus

Those are the weight fist bars from an old set up. The bars would go into the hitch and chains would pull up on hitch

Thank you! I can’t find any info on them at all.

So it sounds like they might do a little bit if I was able to jack up my truck with the trailer ball attached, and then get the chains hooked to the chain holes in my hitch. Correct?

I’m not talking about taking this thing on the highway. I know this setup isn’t safe for many reasons. However, I would like to try and move the trailer to a nearby farm on a day when the ground is dry.

Being that the RL is a essentially a front wheel drive truck, the last thing I want is for my rear end to drag down in the mud and the front wheels pop up in the air with no traction at all.

Mknmike · 10-11-2018, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DobeBus

Those are the weight fist bars from an old set up. The bars would go into the hitch and chains would pull up on hitch

Is “weight fist bars” the correct term? After many searches, I’ve still come up empty.

DobeBus · 10-11-2018, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mknmike

Is “weight fist bars” the correct term? After many searches, I’ve still come up empty.

That should have said “ weight distribution “. You need the hitch that those bars go into

tuffr2 · 10-11-2018, 10:15 AM

Agree with have a buddy with a 1/2 ton truck. Have him move it around lunch time and have pizza and beer. That is a win/win.

Humm, if no buddy.

I had a 2006 Ridgeline. Great little truck. I would try to move it with the Ridgeline. Especially if I had a back road to take. 30 - 35 mph I think you will be ok. No real need for weight distribution for a 1 time 12 mile trip. Make the trailer as lite as you can, remove as much stuff as you can. Come back and get it with your truck later.

Fyi - a truck can not tow very well on grass. If any truck can pull that trailer out of that mess a Ridgeline with AWD is as good as any.

Mknmike · 10-11-2018, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DobeBus

That should have said “ weight distribution “. You need the hitch that those bars go into

Ok. So that sends me back to square 1. The WD setups I see all he bars that swing horizontally and ride below the frame. These bars are mounted and swing on an axis that is horizontal to the ground. If the trailer is too low, they hit the ground. They are mounted to the trailer, and there are chains on the loose end (that hits the ground).

I am thinking of trying hem for the big ~12-20 mile haul out to the farm. The straightest shot would be straight down I-95. I haven’t tested to make sure the brakes will work yet. The 7-pin on the trailer needed replacing. I will test the brakes, and not expect them to work. I will just need to get this storage container to it’s destination. It will be nice to not have to see the RL all squat in the back.

DCDan · 10-13-2018, 12:26 AM

Try the second hand stores. Seems like I'm always seeing weight distrabution hitches.

nutcker · 10-13-2018, 01:32 AM

Might consider having a tow company with a slide back haul that to the farm, if the height isn't to tall. They could winch it onto the flatbed and let it roll off with the winch as a control. Actually some of the tow companies have a hitch as well as the flatbed and could tow it for you, might be less than a ticket or accident.

tuffr2 · 10-13-2018, 03:53 AM

That is the best idea yet. Agree, try a bonded towing company. Putting it on a flat bed would be a great way to move it. No current registration or plates needed.