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12-01-2018, 10:28 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeyWren
Caveat! Those trenches are going to be lower than the driveway or the barn floor. So unless you engineer a drainage system of some sort, then you're going to have a wet mess after every rain. Maybe all you'll need is a wet/dry vacuum? Or maybe your driveway/barn is high enough above the nearby area that you can easily add a drain in the bottom of each trench.
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If there is ANY possibility of water, you'll need to put blocks under the tires. Sitting in water for any length of time will ruin the tires. The blocks would raise the trailer up again and negate the purpose of the trench.
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12-01-2018, 02:19 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 643
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Packing Travel Trailer
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeektheSon1
We have a higher roof line on a different side of the building and it may even be that a door could be cut in that side....maybe expensive but less a pain in the butt for sure. Need to look into that one asap!
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I was only half funnin’ ya. Floor slab stuff is possible but risky. There can be a bunch of stuff underground and you dont know where it is. Floor drains, sewer, electrical conduits, etc. Drainage was brought up and thats a biggie. So while it is possible, I wouldnt do it. You should investigate a new door in that other wall.
__________________
2000 Coleman Tacoma Pop-Up
2006 Ford Explorer XLT, 4.0L-V6, 4x2
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12-01-2018, 02:49 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Carolina Campers Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Winston Salem, NC
Posts: 190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Flyer
I was only half funnin’ ya. Floor slab stuff is possible but risky. There can be a bunch of stuff underground and you dont know where it is. Floor drains, sewer, electrical conduits, etc. Drainage was brought up and thats a biggie. So while it is possible, I wouldnt do it. You should investigate a new door in that other wall.
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Yeah I think you are right. After talking with my husband it may be possible to do a door on the other side, if the bathroom isn't going to be in the way. I think the money would be well spent too! And as long as the roof line is high enough it might possibly work.
Thanks all for helping me work all of this stuff out in my head. One day we'll put legs to it!
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12-02-2018, 01:11 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 643
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Another wildhair thought is something like this www.shelterlogic.com. Google “RV shelter canopy”.
__________________
2000 Coleman Tacoma Pop-Up
2006 Ford Explorer XLT, 4.0L-V6, 4x2
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12-02-2018, 05:10 PM
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#33
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: HillBilly country, Smokey Mtns
Posts: 4,171
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If you have room on your lot, you can erect a DIY RV shelter such as the ShelterLogic that Desert Flyer mentioned. Or do what I did. I erected a Quanset-hut type steel barn big enough to have a 12'x12' barn door. For that Lance 1995 the inside of the barn must be at least 24' deep, so I would make it at least 26' deep, and preferably 28' or 30'. 20'x30'x14' is a common size, but most kits near that size are for 24x30x16 high. 16' high at the peak allows 12' high opening for the 12x12 ban door..
A 24x30x12 would give you lots of wiggle room for adding 24' wide shelving for storage of other items.
My family and I, including DW, son and grandson and DIL, did all the work of erecting the barn and bolting it together. Concrete foundation under the sides and back wall. There's a million bolts with washers and nuts that hold the metal panels together, so it took several days to bolt it all together. After we had the barn erected and bolted together, we still had a dirt floor. So DW and I poured concrete in 2'-wide strips to make a concrete floor.
Our Quanset-hut kit didn't include front and rear walls, So DW and I stick-built those with windows, walk door in front, and the 12x12 barn door.
__________________
Grumpy ole man with over 60 years towing experience. Now my heaviest trailer is a 7'x16' 5,000-pound flatbed utility trailer, my tow vehicle is a 2019 F-150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost SuperCab with Max Tow (1,904 pounds payload capacity).
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12-04-2018, 02:01 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Carolina Campers Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Winston Salem, NC
Posts: 190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Flyer
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Yeah, getting a new garage door in our building is a bust after all. Still don't have the height on the opposite end to install a larger door. Do you think that fabric shelters would hold up in the elements from your link? We had talked about getting a metal shelter if need be. We could build something more, but not sure we are going to stay in our home after my husband retires, so thought about doing something less expensive and simple and removable.
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12-04-2018, 02:11 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Carolina Campers Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Winston Salem, NC
Posts: 190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeyWren
If you have room on your lot, you can erect a DIY RV shelter such as the ShelterLogic that Desert Flyer mentioned. Or do what I did. I erected a Quanset-hut type steel barn big enough to have a 12'x12' barn door. For that Lance 1995 the inside of the barn must be at least 24' deep, so I would make it at least 26' deep, and preferably 28' or 30'. 20'x30'x14' is a common size, but most kits near that size are for 24x30x16 high. 16' high at the peak allows 12' high opening for the 12x12 ban door..
A 24x30x12 would give you lots of wiggle room for adding 24' wide shelving for storage of other items.
My family and I, including DW, son and grandson and DIL, did all the work of erecting the barn and bolting it together. Concrete foundation under the sides and back wall. There's a million bolts with washers and nuts that hold the metal panels together, so it took several days to bolt it all together. After we had the barn erected and bolted together, we still had a dirt floor. So DW and I poured concrete in 2'-wide strips to make a concrete floor.
Our Quanset-hut kit didn't include front and rear walls, So DW and I stick-built those with windows, walk door in front, and the 12x12 barn door.
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I'm sure that is a super nice set up you have made there! Because we might move after my husband's retirement, we had mentioned doing a metal shelter, so we don't invest too much in it, but can at least keep the RV more protected. Lots of extra things to consider than just buying our first RV, that's for sure! I'm truly grateful to the IRV2 group, for all the advice, since we will be rookies.
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12-04-2018, 04:46 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Swoope, VA
Posts: 362
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I also agree that most any large trailer and tow vehicle should be weighed so you have an idea how your set-up compares to your ratings. I have weighted just about every RV, boat, etc. I've ever owned.
Yes, large truck stops generally have scales but there are many other, often more convenient and less expenses to find scales. Feed mills, scrap yards, landfills, and quarries almost always have large truck scales. Many of these places will let you use the scale for free or for a small amount like $5 or so. Just try not to go when they are super buys. Like don't go to the landfill on Saturday morning or the feedmill during the fall harvest.
I have often weighed trailers at quarries and they have said "go ahead, no charge."
__________________
2022 Jayco Eagle 284BHOK, 2022 GMC CC Dually D/A, 2009 2500 Suburban, 2004 Rinker Captiva 232 boat
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