Community Forums

DieselDave · 11-14-2004, 05:48 PM

I thought I saw something saying you can convert the Dodge 2500 to 3500 class fairly easily. Can anyone comment on this?

I'm easing into the market to get a used 2003 or 2004 Dodge Diesel pickup. I'd like a 3500 but the configuration I want (Single rear wheel, short bed) is a bit rare. Pretty easy to find in a 2500 however.

I'm intending to pull a TT with it, so 3500 isn't a show stopper. But I plan on keeping the truck a long time...and would rather have a 3500, or the ability to upgrade if need be.

DieselDave · 11-14-2004, 05:48 PM

I thought I saw something saying you can convert the Dodge 2500 to 3500 class fairly easily. Can anyone comment on this?

I'm easing into the market to get a used 2003 or 2004 Dodge Diesel pickup. I'd like a 3500 but the configuration I want (Single rear wheel, short bed) is a bit rare. Pretty easy to find in a 2500 however.

I'm intending to pull a TT with it, so 3500 isn't a show stopper. But I plan on keeping the truck a long time...and would rather have a 3500, or the ability to upgrade if need be.

cwsoules · 11-14-2004, 07:14 PM

I believe you can upgrade a 2500 with aftermarket products but you will not be able to get the factory GVWR or GCWR revise no matter what you do.

Post this question on turbodieselregister.com to get a more definitive answer.

FiverBob · 11-15-2004, 03:27 AM

. . . or post it on www.dieseltruckresource.com - - don't have to pay on that site.
Bob

Ken Lenger · 11-15-2004, 09:57 AM

From what I understand, the only significant difference between the 3rd gen (2003+) Dodges 2500/3500 SRW are the additional overload springs on the rear. I'm sure you could add those to a 2500 for a price, or some other after market solution, but as mentioned before, doing so will not chang the GVWR of the truck. This may or may not be important to you depending on your convictions and what state (of the US, not mental) you live/operate in.

Strawman · 11-17-2004, 08:29 AM

I have a '93 W250 that I tow my 36' triple axle with for the past 3 years. Only thing I mod'd was the motor for more HP.

The truck only drops about 2 inches with the trailer connected and pulls it as easily as a kid eats ice cream. You can have the DMV change the GVWR if your concerned about being legal. You'll just pay a little more taxs. The only difference between the 3/4 and 1 ton diesel is 1 leaf spring that you can add if needed. I also have an '04.5 SRW, and even though the duallys claim to be more stable, the SRW is hard to beat on wet grass, mud, frost covered ground, etc. I was raised on a ranch, have driven both for years and still prefer the SRW. Just my .02 cents

RobG · 12-01-2004, 08:09 AM

As the others have said, there's little difference between the 2500 and 3500. IMO, get the 2500 because insurance will be cheaper on it. I get hit hard because I have a 3500.

Rob

TXiceman · 12-01-2004, 08:26 AM

If you get a 2500, no matter what you do in the way of modifications, it is still rated for the GVWR of a 2500.

Ken

SuperGewl · 01-17-2005, 03:04 AM

Yeah what they said. Get what you really want and don't even think of UPGRADING later by putting on addons. If get the 3500 then you just have to make up your mind if you want SB or LB or LB w/dually. Get it from the start because yo will be much happier

John Harrelson · 01-17-2005, 08:47 AM

Hello Dave,,

This discussion has arisen many times over the past couple of years and what the others are saying is true..

Here is something else that folks should be aware of, I have posted it before so some people will recognize it..

*******************************************

This is something that everyone should know..

<span class="ev_code_RED">Air Bags</span> will NOT allow the truck to carry more weight or tow more than its designed too.

<span class="ev_code_RED">Overload Springs</span> will NOT allow the truck to carry more weight or tow more than its designed too.

<span class="ev_code_RED">Air Shocks</span> will NOT allow the truck to carry more weight or tow more than its designed too.

However.. they will help to stabilize the truck when it is loaded to its maximum allowed weight..

Too many folks are under the misconception that they can carry more weight and pull heavier trailers by using those over load devices.. Not so ...

Best of luck Dave, and hope to see you on the road some day,
John

ATVr · 01-21-2005, 07:05 AM

"You can have the DMV change the GVWR if your concerned about being legal."

That's a different thing than what is being discussed. The only thing you can change at DMV is the amount of vehicle weight for taxing purposes. They cannot change the truck's max GVWR. Two different things.

DieselDave · 03-10-2005, 05:26 AM

Thanks to all who have replied. I'd like to give a summary of what I've learned in the last few months.

When it comes to the Dodge Ram 2003 - 2005 Short Bed, Single Rear Wheel, the only things the 3500 gives you over the 2500 is:
Clearance lights
3 leaf bed overload springs
A higher weight rating on the *sticker*.

I've even confirmed this with a few dealers.

From what I can see the tires are even the same, though I would not be surprised to see 3500 with higher rated tires floating around.

I've seen some notes about slightly different brake tolerances, etc. I believe these minor differences are due to where the truck was assembled (and where some assembly parts were sourced from) vs the engineers that designed the trucks deciding to make that change.

You should note the over-load springs on the 3500 don't actually touch anything unless the bed is...well...over-loaded. : ) If you stick your head in the wheel well you can see, them. They have about 4 inches of clearance from the bed. So this dispels any 'the 2500 will ride better then the 3500' arguments I've heard. Unless you over-load that bed, they will ride the same.

Further on this point, my opinion is this: Unless you care about the weight rating sticker, it's a better idea to get a 2500 and add air leveling hi-jackers for ~$1200, then to spend the extra $900 for a 3500 with overload springs you can't adjust.

Now this is what I HAVE found different:
2500 and 3500 2WD == 3 leaf springs in the rear
2500 and 3500 4WD == 4 leaf springs in the rear

This like the overload springs are easy enough to confirm for yourself. Just stick your head in the wheel well and count. So the 4WD version of whatever you get will have more PAYLOAD capability then the 2WD. These springs don't help your towing limits, and the 4WD limit will always be lower because the truck itself will weigh more, subtracting from your GVWR. With that said the extra leaf in the 4WD will be happier with heavy pin weights 5th's.

RustyJC · 03-10-2005, 06:01 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DieselDave:
Further on this point, my opinion is this: Unless you care about the weight rating sticker, it's a better idea to get a 2500 and add air leveling hi-jackers for ~$1200, then to spend the extra $900 for a 3500 with overload springs you can't adjust. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>For any RVing newbies who may be reading this thread, this statement represents one individual's opinion. This "running overweight" question is an ongoing topic of discussion in the RVing world. My advice to anyone contemplating the purchase of a tow vehicle and/or RV is this - get the right tool for the job. Specifically, the conservative approach is to ensure that the tow vehicle is rated (GCWR, GVWR and GAWRs) to handle the recreational vehicle it will be pulling.

Rusty

DieselDave · 03-10-2005, 11:38 AM

Rusty, I understand your intentions are the best with your post, but I really have to say something about it, and posts like it.

And that is this: Some people like to live by what they see (and can prove) and some people like to live by what they read. I'm in the former group. The sticker on the door means zilch to me. What matters is what the truck REALLY can do.

I'm sure people who have been towing much longer then I, can cite plenty of examples of trucks that in practice, DO NOT live up to the numbers on the door.

For example: The 2005 Dodge 3500 is rated to tow about 16,500lb. But in all cases, would you really want that much trailer on it. Many would answer 'no', as at that size a mid size truck is getting to be a better idea.

I know it's easy to recommend people 'fail safe' with the door sticker, but I think it's better advice to tell a newbie they must really educate themselves about towing and tow vehicles, and seek first hand experiences, in order to determine what "the right tool for the job" is.

In the case of the 2003-2005 dodge 2500 and 3500 SB SRW, they are the same tool, with a different label. The 2500 can do anything the 3500 can. The only question remaining for me is are the weight ratings of the 3500 high, low, or correct?