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Old 07-26-2020, 01:55 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by tuffr2 View Post
So, I take it the towing from the dealer to your house did not go so well. I did not get that from your initial post. But you made it!!! Whew!!!

I did look up the Ranger wheelbase. It does not look so good for the Ranger. The wheelbase is shorter than my old Honda Ridgeline and I know how that went...not good at all.

If looking at a F-150 know they are not all equal. You want the one with the highest 'Occupant and Cargo weight should never exceed xxxx Kilos or xxxx' lbs ' numbers.

Here is a good video to watch.

https://youtu.be/mvWsPaWBmo0
Actually the drive home went fine. There was some first time jitters, but once I was rolling it felt good enough that I quickly got comfortable. Even took it to an empty parking lot for some practice backing in. It was about a 40 mile trip, including highways and side roads. Got it up to 65mph and didn't feel nervous. Also no weather conditions, and weekend evening traffic levels. I obviously took it extra easy, but I'm generally not an aggressive driver so it came naturally.
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Old 07-26-2020, 02:07 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by tuffr2 View Post
So, I take it the towing from the dealer to your house did not go so well. I did not get that from your initial post. But you made it!!! Whew!!!

I did look up the Ranger wheelbase. It does not look so good for the Ranger. The wheelbase is shorter than my old Honda Ridgeline and I know how that went...not good at all.

If looking at a F-150 know they are not all equal. You want the one with the highest 'Occupant and Cargo weight should never exceed xxxx Kilos or xxxx' lbs ' numbers.

Here is a good video to watch.

https://youtu.be/mvWsPaWBmo0
I really appreciate your help. Could you take a look at this listing? Its so confusing bc some of the wt specs on this dealer listing don't match the Ford website. Is it the engine that I should filter on? 3.5L >2.7L? Obviously budget is now an issue.

https://www.metrofordofmadison.com/n...EW1E41LFC01428
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Old 07-26-2020, 02:17 PM   #31
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The other thing is I've been working from home, so barely put 250 miles on the Ranger so far. Not sure if I should just trade in now or take some of the advice I've seen and take it on some test trips. I don't want to put too many miles and have less leverage at trade in if I'm going to end up wanting F150 anyways.
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Old 07-26-2020, 02:48 PM   #32
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Forget about the Ford website if you have the actual truck on a dealer lot. Just focus on payload. Two trucks - one with 1,550 lbs. payload and one with 1,750lbs payload pick the truck with 1,750lbs...but look for a truck with 1,800lbs. payload...if they have one.

But wait, if you can tow at 65 mph without being too squirrely I think you are ok. Can you tow with one hand on the steering wheel? I am trying to gauge how squirrely things were for you.

You would see a huge improvement in towing with a 3.5 Eco-Boost F-150. You really don't want the 2.7 Eco-Boost because that is still considered a grocery better. Actually a F-150 belongs in the front off your trailer to be a lot safer.

Ford builds a myriad of F-150's. You want the Tow Package. Either the 3.5 Eco-Boost or a 5.0 litre V8 Coyote engine will do. And again get the highest payload F-150 they have.

I had a F-150 with the 5.0 litre Coyote engine and really liked that truck.
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Old 07-26-2020, 02:50 PM   #33
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You really have to compare cargo capacity. The specs on the dealers WEB page are useless. Have them send you a picture of the yellow tag. BTW, that same dealer has an F-250 that's cheaper than the F-150. You could also opt for the gas engine and drop the price more.

https://www.metrofordofmadison.com/n...7W2B6XLEE04294
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Old 07-26-2020, 04:11 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by tuffr2 View Post
Forget about the Ford website if you have the actual truck on a dealer lot. Just focus on payload. Two trucks - one with 1,550 lbs. payload and one with 1,750lbs payload pick the truck with 1,750lbs...but look for a truck with 1,800lbs. payload...if they have one.

But wait, if you can tow at 65 mph without being too squirrely I think you are ok. Can you tow with one hand on the steering wheel? I am trying to gauge how squirrely things were for you.

You would see a huge improvement in towing with a 3.5 Eco-Boost F-150. You really don't want the 2.7 Eco-Boost because that is still considered a grocery better. Actually a F-150 belongs in the front off your trailer to be a lot safer.

Ford builds a myriad of F-150's. You want the Tow Package. Either the 3.5 Eco-Boost or a 5.0 litre V8 Coyote engine will do. And again get the highest payload F-150 they have.

I had a F-150 with the 5.0 litre Coyote engine and really liked that truck.
Yes, last night I was pretty comfy at 65 and could've done one handed. Not sure if the rpm matters, but never got above 3k from what I could tell. Revved up a little up hill but never felt like I was losing ground. I never towed before so not much point of reference.
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Old 07-26-2020, 04:49 PM   #35
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Forgive me if I'm off base, but thats why I'm putting this out here. I feel like there are 2 different issues trying to be addressed here. With payload, as long as my wts in the Ranger check out (already planning a weigh in), then regarding payload we should be good, right? I do realize that there are a handful of wts to check, tongue, axils, trailer tire, etc.

In terms of handling, does payload even matter? Wouldn't it just be mainly the gross wt of the tow vehicle. Heavier truck = heavier anchor? Is the payload (yellow sticker) just a good indicator I should be using?

Feels like my 2 options are trade in right now, hoping I don't get hosed on the value of my Ranger (could sell private). Or get the wt distribution hitch and tires to feel safer, and maybe test out the rest of summer and decide next Spring, after getting a little use getting groceries in my Ranger over winter (I'm in WI, so camping season ends soon) before trading in.
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Old 07-26-2020, 04:56 PM   #36
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I am surprised but sounds like the little ranger has the beans to tow that trailer.
Ford is really doing amazing things with their turbo charged engines. I am familiar with the 3.5 and 2.7 Eco-Boost but now the 2.3 Eco-Boost.

I was paying attention to right lane traffic speed just a few days ago. I actually got in the right lane. If you could tow at 65 - 67mph that would have been keeping up with right lane traffic where not too many semi's would be passing you. That is ideal, not to holding up the right lane taffic.

And if you could even map out secondary routes that would even be an easier tow.

If you can tow at 65mph with one hand you are tracking straight and do not have trailer sway which would mean you have to make continual steering corrections.

I am impressed with the little Ford Ranger.

Edit after seeing your second post:

Yes payload on the yellow sticker is key. I am guessing the payload is a hefty 1,500lbs. Is that close?

Your wife likes that trailer and that is what matters.
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Old 07-26-2020, 07:25 PM   #37
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Payload on the Ranger is 1428lb
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Old 07-27-2020, 04:37 AM   #38
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Seems you can get by with the Ranger if you really want to.

You are doing something I would never think of doing. I would not tow more than 4,000lbs with a Ford Ranger. But look at you...good

A F-150 buys you 300 - 400 lbs. of payload but more important it is a much better towing platform. More stable with a longer wheelbase and the F-150 weighs a little more. Oh, and more power.

A F-150 can also carry more groceries
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Old 07-27-2020, 08:04 AM   #39
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So why dont you get the tow specs from the dealer and read them? Dont rely on the tow expert wannabes.

Sorry but this statement is spot on. The internet of answering questions is opinionated big time and promoted unsafe answers. People really NEED TO READ THERE MANUALS instead asking the internet people.


Besides its a Ford and a little one at that!!!!
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Old 07-27-2020, 08:51 AM   #40
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Forgive me if I'm off base, but thats why I'm putting this out here. I feel like there are 2 different issues trying to be addressed here. With payload, as long as my wts in the Ranger check out (already planning a weigh in), then regarding payload we should be good, right? I do realize that there are a handful of wts to check, tongue, axils, trailer tire, etc.

In terms of handling, does payload even matter? Wouldn't it just be mainly the gross wt of the tow vehicle. Heavier truck = heavier anchor? Is the payload (yellow sticker) just a good indicator I should be using?

Feels like my 2 options are trade in right now, hoping I don't get hosed on the value of my Ranger (could sell private). Or get the wt distribution hitch and tires to feel safer, and maybe test out the rest of summer and decide next Spring, after getting a little use getting groceries in my Ranger over winter (I'm in WI, so camping season ends soon) before trading in.
I think your second option is the logical one. Weigh it. Test it. Actual weights compared to sticker maximums are what matter. Estimating weights or using published numbers is for planning before you have actual equipment to weight.

It seems pointless to ignore actual weights of the rig you have in favor of published weights and estimates of what performance will be on a truck you don't have. Weighing only costs about $15. Weighting twice to calculate tongue weight only costs about $30. Get the existing rig weighed!

When you are planning to buy a new truck, the "yellow" sticker is the definitive specification for that vehicle when it left the factory. All other published values may be confusing or wrong. I have an owners manual for my tow vehicle that specifies two different towing capacities. Websites including the manufactures website show other towing capacities. Look at the sticker!

A weight distribution hitch with sway control usually makes a big difference when you push the limits of a tow vehicle. Hitch up the TT and park on a level surface. Get a ball hitch of the height necessary to level the TT. Slightly down at the front of the TT is OK. It needs to look level when standing a short distance away.

Now look at the level of the tow vehicle. If it is down at the rear, you need a weight distribution hitch. Getting one with sway control will most likely improve safety margin even if you can not see it until you have one of those rare hart pounding emergencies.

Putting a TT on the back of a TV behind the rear axle takes weight off the front wheels. Using a weight distribution hitch puts some or all of the shift back on the front wheels. Proper weight on the front wheels provides stability especially during emergency maneuvers.
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:35 AM   #41
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Wow, you guys/gals are so very helpful and I really appreciate the brutal honesty - something that doesn't usually happen face-to-face I've noticed.

Is there anything I should be paying attention to when shopping for a WD hitch? Different classes or sizes? Just a couple phone calls today to local shops and haven't been able to get any good advice. They all expect me to know exactly what I need (go figure, the truck owner is expected to know).
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:50 AM   #42
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Ok, I'm going to risk sounding really stupid. My hitch on the truck right now is a factory rear receiver hitch (sticker says 750lb tongue, 7500 tow). Then there's a contraption that holds 2 bars that come out at an angle that I lock into place when hooking things up. Is that the same thing as a weight distribution hitch? The dealer kept calling them "sway bars" and never described anything about it that made it sound like it would distribue the weight better, just that it would "help prevent sway". I included a picture, without the bars bc the trailer isn't hooked up right now.Click image for larger version

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