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Old 07-18-2012, 09:56 PM   #1
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Researching used TV for 11,800 TT/TH

11,800 is GVWR for the bumper pull TH. It is a Forrest River/Salem LE Sport. 6510 dry weight and 8560 on truck scales at Port terminal where I work - fully loaded for trip - with 800lb motorcycle already inside.

Problem is my current TV is very close to being maxed out, and that is with ZERO water in tanks, ZERO gas in fuel station, but both propane tanks full. Trailer was a gift for work performed, so I can't down size it very easy or economically. Already have WDH and set it up. Had to remove topper and bed rug to stay under RAGW.
Current TV is a 04 GMC Z71. I hope to have finances to make a trip to Sturgis Bike Rally in 2013. I want to take more than what I do for short weekend trips I do now. I know I need MORE truck than I currently have to do this trip. I currently get 13 - 14 mpg solo, and 9.8 - 10.2 towing at 65 or less. Towes beautifully all the way to 75 mph, but MPG was 6.8 or less so I have learned to slow way down (research from here taught me about the air resistance/ fuel consumption increase). If I weren't hoping to go on this trip, I'd pack lighter, replace manual fan with electric one, and get a free flowing muffler to increase effency of my paid for and personalized truck.

Researching used diesels in my area. I think that is the way I'd like to go. 2500 or 3500 doesn't matter, SRW or DRW is still up in the air as tire replacement cost in the future of a used truck will be sooner than a new one, unless I get lucky and find one with new tires. I would like to stay with 4x4 if possible. Don't want to go older than what I have unless I find a low milage super deal!

So far, I like;

the GM with allison as I have some things like hard rubber mats, OH console, and other GM specific things I could transfer to another truck. Anyone knowing what years are interchangeable - for interior aftermarket stuff with 04 GMC I have, and topper and bedrug I can't currently use because of weight issues.

the Dodge 5.9 preferrably 03 to 07 with MANUAL transmission - I have heard that the auto isn't so tough. REALLY impressed with the fuel economy of the 5.9 - leaning hard toward Dodge for this. 6.7 looks good too, but like the double OD automatic here.

the Ford 7.3 - but these are older than what I have now and low milage SUPER deals are really rare! A few friends have the newer 6.0 and have told me to stay away, FAR away. I hope if you have had good luck with yours, please don't take offense, as I have read many great reviews about non modified stock 6.0s. Trying not to go too new to keep cost down, so 6.4 is out, and I do not care for the layout of the newer Fords.

This will be a daily driver, 1/2 hour each way to work, plus other errands, an occasional weekend tower for 1 to 4 hour towes. Possibly a TV going to Sturgis Bike rally in 2013.

OTHER info to weigh in - sometimes, at work, I use my truck to work out of. Sitting ideling in Florida heat on asphalt fields, like a parking lot, burning fuel for AC to keep comfortable, or in winter, heat (yes, it does get cold in N.Florida!). I read in an older post that the diesels shouldn't be idled for long periods to keep from messing up emissions egrs and stuff. Is one brand or motor, less susceptable to this than others? Fixes to prevent problems from long ideling and/ or low speed use?

Let the wisdom flow....
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:54 AM   #2
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sounds like you already have a pretty good idea of what you are after. any of the trucks you mentioned will work for you. there are some good you tube tips on what to look for when buying a used diesel truck. as far as brand, I love my ford. Thats just an opinion.. you are smart for getting a diesel to pull that much trailer.

good luck in your search!
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:07 PM   #3
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Here is a free PDF booklet that can be downloaded from the inter-net. Turbo Diesel Register.Com provides the booklet. I have attached the link for you here.
Turbo Diesel Buyers Guide

This booklet is geared towards the Dodge trucks but can be useful in buying any Turbo Diesel truck.
Enjoy.
Jim W.
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Old 07-20-2012, 01:45 PM   #4
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Is it harmful to idle a diesel if I needed to work out of it to have AC or heat? Which brand and years are less likely to have problems if I had to idle or drive around at low speeds for work? Is there something that I could do to counter any effects? I have no problem blowing the carbon out on the way home if necessary! LOL!
From what I have been able to find I believe the Dodge 5.9 has the least emissions stuff to mess up by idling for extended periods. What is the differences between light trucks and semis I see idling for long periods?
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2006 Dodge SLT 2500 4x4 Cummins Quad Cab w/AT and 3.73
2007 Salem Sport LE 26FBSRV (TH) w/ my Victory Motorcycle in it or a EZ GO Shuttle cart.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:08 PM   #5
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If you're considering an early 24 valve Cummins 5.9L, you should be aware of the following TSB 18-019-01 that applies to extended idling:

Quote:
Parent Category: 2nd Generation 24V Dodge Cummins
Category: TSB (Technical Service Bulletins)
Created on Saturday, 01 October 2011 17:44
Last Updated on Wednesday, 30 November 2011 00:15
Written by Michael Nelson
Date: September 3, 2001

Models: 1998 1/2-2002 BR/BE Ram Trucks

NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL RAM TRUCKS BUILT AFTER DECEMBER 17,1997 AND EQUIPPED WITH THE 24-VALVE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE.

Discussion:
This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Engine Control Module (ECM) with new software (Cal 55Tl8, 57Tl1, 56Tl3, 59T7b, and 59T8b.)

Symptom/Condition:
Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components. A new software feature, enabled or disabled through the DRB III (See instructions under Repair Procedure), reduces the chance of valve sticking and improves cab heat warm-up time.

Once enabled, idle speed will slowly ramp up from 800 rpm to 1200 rpm when all of the following conditions are met:
1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and,
2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and,
3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and,
4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and,
5. Throttle = 0% and,
6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph

Additionally, if Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) is less than -9°C (15°F), and all of the parameters above are met, three of the cylinders will be shut off upon reaching 1200 rpm, creating a slight change in engine sound which is normal. This allows the engine to create increased heat in the cooling system, allowing more rapid engine warm up and cab heating.

Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs:
1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or,
2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or,
3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or,
4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or,
5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F).

Engine speed will return to normal operation at 800 rpm. If the engine continues to idle and coolant temperature is at or below 60°C (140°'F), the feature will re enable. In order to operate properly, the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) must stay at idle.

NOTE: ANY TYPE OF AFTERMARKET IDLE SPEED KICKER THAT ACTIVATES THE APPS WILL DISABLE THIS FEATURE.

Use of the 110V block heater will not allow the feature to function after an overnight soak. If the vehicle is left idling, without use of the block heater, 1200 rpm operation will begin when the intake temperature drops below O°C (32°F) and coolant is less than 60°C (140°F).
Not mentioned above is that, if one has an exhaust brake installed, use of the exhaust brake while idling will load the engine and raise EGTs sufficiently to avoid the buildup problem on exhaust valve stems.

Other problems that can result from extended idling are fuel dilution of the lubricating oil (especially if larger aftermarket injectors are fitted) and washdown of the cylinder walls. Further, many governmental bodies have outlawed extended idling (over 5 minutes in many cases, IIRC) for environmental reasons.

Under no circumstances would I try extended idling with the Cummins 6.7 (or any other post-1/1/2007 diesel) due to sooting and sticking of the VGT turbo, plugging of the DPF and associated frequent regeneration cycles.

Rusty
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:39 PM   #6
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Thanks. This is what I was looking for. Rarely gets THAT cold here in Florida. Thinking the Dodge might be a better choice than GM and much better than Ford because of emissions required stuff.

At work we sometimes have to use our personal vehicles while directing the loading and unloading of sea going vessels. May be in the 30s 15 times a year and teens once or twice.
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2006 Dodge SLT 2500 4x4 Cummins Quad Cab w/AT and 3.73
2007 Salem Sport LE 26FBSRV (TH) w/ my Victory Motorcycle in it or a EZ GO Shuttle cart.
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Old 07-21-2012, 08:54 AM   #7
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Rusty did a good job of responding to your question of extended idling. Note the words in the TSB he quoted:
Quote:
Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components.
That's called "wet stacking" , and it's true of any brand of diesel engine at low idle RPM. The combustion temp at low idle RPM is not hot enough to result in complete combustion, and the result is wet stacking. The fix is an auxiliary idle controller that allows you to increase the idle RPM from the stock low idle of around 700 RPM to a high idle RPM of 1,200 or more RPM. I know zero about Italian Motors and Government Motors pickups, but my Ford diesel had an auxiliary idle controller (AIC) available as a factory option or also available in Ford parts. The newer Fords have a built-in idle controller called the SEIC (stationary elevated idle controller). The SEIC is built in but not activated by the factory, but any Ford tech should know how add a switch to turn it on and make it usable by Average Joe. Use the SEIC to elevate the idle to 1,200 RPM or so and you won't have to worry about "wet stacking". The main purpose of the SEIC is PTO operation, but it works just fine for extended idling without even having a PTO installed.

I'll bet the other brands of diesel engines also have a way to elevate the idle RPM for PTO operation. So regardless of brand, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out how to elevate the idle to 1200 or more for extended idle operation. I used mine primarily in the summertime to make the AC work better for PuppyDog, or for me when Darling Wife was shopping in summertime heat.
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